The Best Places to Visit in Jaffna, Sri Lanka’s Northern Capital
A cultural melting pot more than worthy of your time: Jaffna is a must-see on any Sri Lankan itinerary.
Here are the best things to do in Jaffna, Sri Lanka, plus our short guide to the city including where to stay, eat, and how to get around!
UPDATED - JULY 2024
“It’s.. different up there,” our tuk-tuk driver, Dilshan warned us as we puttered through the tea plantations just outside Ella.
“The north, it doesn’t even feel like the same country,” he continued. “Actually, you might not even like it”
We’d been chatting about our plans to head north to Jaffna - an area of Sri Lanka often skipped over by travellers to this little island paradise - and while thankfully Dilshan’s warnings about not liking it ended up being incorrect, he was definitely right about one thing:
Jaffna. is. different.
These northern realms of Sri Lanka drum to a beat of their own, led by the Tamils and a strong Hindu culture so entirely separate from the Sinhalese and Buddhist cultures of the south.
Colourful Hindu temples dot the region, frequented by sari-clad women and shirtless men praying to the gods. The language is distinct, the people are more reserved, and the cuisine is influenced strongly by southern India.
The region, finally rebuilding and healing after a bloody 26-year civil war that only ended in 2009, still bears the scars from this tumultuous period. More than 100,000 people are estimated to have been killed in the conflict, while today a few burnt-out homes and bullet-filled walls remain. For many, a deep pain and resentment towards the South and the outcome of the war is still felt.
Yet despite it all, Jaffna is a seriously raw and authentic place to visit. We were blown away by the warmth of the locals, which although different to the south, is no less genuine.
We also realised that, despite the lack of rope swings and insta-famous locations, Jaffna has an incredible amount of unique things to see and do, including ancient forts and temples, isolated islands, and truly amazing food.
Dilshan was right, the north is very different, but we absolutely enjoyed it.
The region’s still a while away from truly exploding as a tourism destination, but for those like us who are searching for an authentic travel experience, Jaffna is definitely a place we recommend you visit in Sri Lanka.
JAFFNA TRAVEL GUIDE SNAPSHOT
TOP THINGS TO SEE | Jaffna Fort, Nallur Kandiswamy Temple, Jaffna markets, Delft Island, KKS beach
WHAT TO EAT | Mango’s, Peninsula Jetwing, Lavin’s
WHERE TO STAY | D’Vila Garden House, Jetwing Jaffna, The Thinnai
BEST TIME TO VISIT | January - March
CURRENCY| Sri Lankan Rupee
HOW TO GET AROUND | Tuk-tuk, local bus
11 INCREDIBLE PLACES TO VISIT IN JAFFNA
#1 EXPLORE THE ANCIENT JAFFNA FORT
If we’re being honest, we’ll admit that we didn’t find Jaffna Fort as beautiful as its Insta-famous southern counterpart, Galle Fort. However, we did really enjoy walking its tourist-free walls and ramparts at our own pace and enjoying the great views over the moat, Jaffna Lagoon and the city.
Similar to Galle, the Jaffna Fort was originally built by the Portuguese before the Dutch (and later, English) expanded it into one of the greatest forts in Asia in the late 1600s.
This fort is much smaller in size than its counterpart so you can explore it easily in half a day. We’d recommend heading over in the afternoon to watch the sunset over the city.
It's free to explore, although many historical buildings and structures remain in ruins due to the recent civil war.
THE DETAILS
Where | Jaffna Fort
Cost | Free
a different fort: the best things to do at sri lanka’s popular galle fort
#2 ADMIRE THE COLOURFUL AND ANCIENT NALLUR KANDISWAMY HINDU TEMPLE
Absolutely stunning; that's the only way we can describe the incredible Nallur Kandiswamy, a Hindu temple dedicated to Skanda/Murugan – the god of love, war and beauty.
Just ten minutes from the centre of Jaffna town, Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil was first built as a fort in 948 when Nallur (“good city”) was an important ancient kingdom.
Reconstructed twice (1450s and 1734), the towering golden-ochred temple has been calling faithful devotees to its grounds for centuries, becoming a significant landmark in Jaffna.
From the minute we entered the grounds, this temple was unlike anything we’d ever seen before. From the men prostrating while praying to gods, to women in brightly coloured saris cracking coconuts as offerings to the gods, to the sounds of chanting and incense - it’s a truly fascinating, slightly chaotic cultural experience.
Non-hindus are able to enter the temple, however do make sure you’re dressed appropriately. This means covered shoulders and legs for women, and shirts removed for men. Do not wear animal skin (e.g. leather) when entering the temple.
If you’re travelling to Jaffna during August, be sure to visit Nallur Kandiswamy temple for the Nallur festival; a colourful month-long display of the vibrant Northern culture.
THE DETAILS
Where | Nallur Kandiswamy Hindu temple
Cost | Free
Tips | Dress appropriately. Women must cover their shoulders and legs, while men must remove their shirts.
Photography is not allowed inside
sri lanka travel tips | everything you need to know before you go
#3 EMBRACE LOCAL LIFE AT JAFFNA MARKETS
Visiting the local market of Thirunelveli was hands down our favourite thing to do in Jaffna.
We arrived at 7 am to find the markets already thriving; a swirling cacophony of smells, colours and shouting that can only be found in a truly authentic local market. The presence of two foreigners definitely wasn’t unnoticed, and with many a curious stare pointed in our direction we initially felt like terribly intrusive outsiders.
Gradually, a few friendly stall owners began to open up and embrace our presence and before long we were moving from stall to stall, chatting with sellers and learning about Jaffna, the markets, and their recent history. We took their portraits, tried local fruits, and were gifted many a coconut and generous smile.
It was such a positive experience.
After visiting Jaffna markets, we walked away feeling like we understood the people, culture and city so much more, and the whole experience made us really appreciate the north of Sri Lanka. If you do visit, please respect that Thirunelveli is a working market, so keep out of the way, try to buy some produce, and engage in friendly conversation.
THE DETAILS
Where | Thirunelveli Markets
How to get there | It's easiest to catch a tuk-tuk, however if you're staying centrally, you can walk north along Palali Rd
Cost | Free
Tip | Visit early, at around 7am, when the markets are bustling and the golden light mesmerising
sri lanka bucket list | 31 essential things to do in sri lanka
#4 EXPLORE JAFFNA’S OUTER ISLAND, INCLUDING DELFT ISLAND
Long, arduous, yet definitely satisfying - our day trip to Delft Island (Neduntheevu in Tamil, or Neduntivu in Sinhala) was certainly unique, and one of our favourite things to do in Jaffna.
Located about 30 km from Jaffna city, Delft is an outlying coral and limestone island with a long history dating from the Chola Dynasty, Portuguese, Dutch and the British Colonial Period.
It's absolutely not your stereotypical postcard-worthy island, but that's all part of its charm.
Visiting the island was like stepping wayyyyy back in time, with tiny villages, windy dirt roads, rock walls, and swaying palms making up the island.
Remnants of the Islands' past are dotted throughout, and we recommend visiting the following sites:
Portuguese/Dutch Fort | Ruined ancient Fort, originally built by the Portuguese, and turned into a Fort by the Dutch
Delft Island baobab tree | Huge baobab native to tropical Africa, left by Arab merchants
Old Dutch Hospital | Built by the Dutch and converted into an administrative centre in the early 1900s. In 'The Courts', there's a British Emblem inscribed on the wall
Pigeon Nest | A unique structure used to house messenger pigeons to other areas during the Dutch reign
Dutch Horse Stables | Crumbling horse stables built during the Dutch occupation, housing horses from all over the world
Food can be hard to come by on the Islands; there's one restaurant at the Jetty that serves vegetable roti and fried wade, otherwise, a few small markets sell the odd snack. We definitely recommend you bring at least 2L of water and enough food for the day.
Delft Island was also the first time we've really noticed the effects of climate change - the whole Island was covered in water with the water table very high due to rising sea levels and recent unusual flooding. Scary.
THE DETAILS
Where | Delft Island (Neduntheevu or Neduntivu)
How to get there | From Jaffna you need to get to Kurikadduwan Harbour, about an hour away. Take the 776 from the Jaffna bus station (LKR90 per person), departing at 6:30, or a tuk-tuk (LKR 2,000).
The ferry for Delft leaves at 8 am or 9 am (LKR 100 per person), with a maximum number of 100 passengers, so it's important to get there 30 minutes before departure.
Returning home, we recommend catching the 14:30 ferry back to Kurikadduwan harbour.
How to get around Delft Island | Upon arrival, you can organise a tuk-tuk to take you to all the major sights. Expect to pay between LKR 1500 - 2500.
Tip | Bring food and water just in case
Read more | Our comprehensive Delft Island day trip guide
sri lanka’s cultural capital | the best things to do in kandy
#5 ROAD TRIP TO KEERIMALAI AND KANKESANTHURAI BEACH (KKS), NORTH OF JAFFNA
We really wanted to get out of Jaffna city itself and explore the northern part of the city. Locals recommended a visit to Keerimalai and Kankesanthurai beaches (KKS), so we booked a tuk-tuk and set off.
The north is dotted with colourful Hindi Kovils, spiritual abodes for local devotees and one which you must visit is Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil. Dating back 1000 years, the temple is dedicated to Shiva and is also located next to the Keerimalai pond which is said to have healing powers. We’re not sure about that latter part, but it is worth visiting to watch the local boys playing around.
KKS beach is said to be the best in Jaffna, although in our honest opinion, we beg to differ.
Although visually pretty enough, it was rather polluted when we were there, so it might be worth giving a miss if you're stretched for time. We did meet a number of local families, which made the experience enjoyable.
If you're planning on heading north, ask your tuk-tuk driver to take you to the most important Kovil's in the area.
THE DETAILS
Where | Keerimalai and Kankesanthurai beach (KKS)
How to get there | Tuk tuk from Jaffna centre costs around LKR 2,000 - 2,500, including visiting major Kovils in the area. Alternatively, you can catch a local bus from Jaffna bus station to KKS, or the Yal Devi train service, leaving from Jaffna station
beach days: our guide to unawatuna’s best things to do!
#6 STROLL THROUGH JAFFNA’S LIVELY CITY CENTRE
If you've got a spare afternoon, we definitely recommend strolling the streets of Jaffna and, dare we recommend it, getting a bit lost.
Jaffna’s city centre is surprisingly beautiful - towering Palmyra palms, colourful Hindu temples, vibrant local markets, cute laneways, and of course, friendly smiles from surprised locals. The perfect way to see it all is on foot, through the centre of town.
Starting at Jaffna bus station, head west and follow your nose.
And when you're done grab a tuk-tuk to Mangos - the best restaurant in town!
#7 EAT AT MANGO’S, JAFFNA’S BEST RESTAURANT
At this very moment of writing, we're still dreaming about the masala dosa at Mangos, Jaffna's best (and most famous) restaurant. We were worried that this tourist-popular spot might not live up to the hype, but we can absolutely say that we had some of our best meals in Sri Lanka here. It was so good in fact, that we went back twice!
The cuisine in Jaffna is very different to the southern reaches of Sri Lanka - think more South Indian in flavour, with heavier curries, biryani, dosas, and parathas. And Lassis... so many lassis!
We recommend trying the signature masala dosa, the delicious onion bhaji, as well as any of the traditional south Indian curries, and washing it down with fresh pineapple juice (just remember to ask for no straw!).
THE DETAILS
Where | Mangos Indian Vegetarian Restaurant
Cost | Masala Dosa: LKR 200, Pineapple juice: LKR 250
#8 GO ICE CREAM CRAZY AT RIO’S
After finishing your masala dosa from Mangos, you probably won't be hungry. But if you have any space left and a craving for ice cream we’d suggest Rio’s a short walk away.
Rio's is absolutely not your usual Italian gelato-style ice cream (so don’t go there expecting it!); it’s ice cream with a sweet South Indian twist, full of condiments and flavours to blow your mind.
THE DETAILS
Where | Rio’s Ice Cream Cafe
Cost | Start from LRK 70 per sundae
#9 ADMIRE THE COLONIAL REMNANTS AT JAFFNA PUBLIC LIBRARY AND JAFFNA CLOCK TOWER
Unfortunately, Jaffna only has a small amount of colonial buildings still intact after the war. The two which we recommend you visit are Jaffna Public Library and Jaffna Clock Tower.
Jaffna Public Library was actually one of the largest in Asia, containing over 97,000 books and manuscripts before it was burnt down in 1981 during the bloody civil war.
In 2002 it was restored, although sadly the library collection is not what it once was. Visitors are only allowed into a few rooms, but it's still worth seeing.
Just a short walk away is the Jaffna Clock Tower. Built in 1875 to commemorate the visit of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales to Ceylon, Jaffna Clock Tower is one of Jaffna's most famous attractions.
THE DETAILS
Where | Jaffna Public Library and Jaffna Clock Tower
Opening hours | Jaffna Public Library - 4:30 pm - 6:30 pm for tourists
experience the best of Ella | 10 essential things to do in ella
#10 ENJOY SUNSET DRINKS AT JETWING JAFFNA
As the sun sets over the Jaffna, the hazy skies turn bright orange before the speckled lights of the city illuminate. It's all very pretty, and perfect to be enjoyed with a cocktail or two. At least that's what we did!
Jetwing Jaffna has the best views in town, overlooking the city and lagoon from their panoramic rooftop bar. Not only that, there's a happy hour during golden hour, allowing for (slightly) cheaper cocktails.
We enjoyed a mojito and an ice-cold beer each, and we suggest you do, too.
In addition to the rooftop bar, Jetwing Jaffna also houses one of Jaffna’s finest restaurants, called Peninsula. Serving authentic Jaffna and South Indian cuisine, such as the fiery red Jaffna crab curry and Odiyal Kool (a seafood broth).
THE DETAILS
Where | Jetwing Jaffna
Opening hours | 11 am - 10 pm
Cost | Cocktails start from LKR 1,000
#11 SPEAK WITH THE JAFFNA LOCALS
We recommended speaking to locals in our Galle Fort guide, and we recommend the same in Jaffna.
Why?
Because almost everyone you see has lived through the bloody civil war that raged in this part of Sri Lanka for the better part of 25 years. These people have lived through a lot, and they all have stories to tell.
Sure, people may not be immediately open about their experiences (and we don’t recommend you go in hard with questions about a painful war!), but if they do share, it can lead to many an intriguing, insightful, and at times, confronting conversation.
When we mentioned Colombo to one shopkeeper, his face turned unexpectedly dark and he did a ‘slit the neck’ motion - clearly angry at a political coup that was currently playing out in the Sri Lankan government, where the president had been replaced by a leader with previously strong anti-Tamil sentiments.
Others in the market were keen to share insights about the Tamil way of life, their culture and their experiences of life up north.
They're also generally more than happy to tell you about all the amazing things to do in Jaffna, including where to eat (Mangos was suggested to us by a local, and that turned out very well!), so chat away and enjoy this unique culture.
A MAP OF THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN JAFFNA
If you visit Jaffna, download our ‘best things to do in Jaffna’ map to your phone so you never get lost.
WHERE TO STAY IN JAFFNA
There are plenty of accommodation options available in Jaffna, although it’s worth noting that as the region is still opening up to tourism, accommodation up north tends to be a little more expensive than what you’ll find in the south of the country.
The difference isn’t huge, but it’s definitely worth factoring into your budgeting/planning if you intend to make the trip up.
A little note on accommodation in Sri Lanka: If you land expecting to see your traditional lively, dorm-room, rooftop-bar, communal-breakfast-area type hostels common to most of Southeast Asia on every corner, you may be left a little disappointed.
We found there was actually a surprising lack of ‘hostel culture’ throughout the country, mostly because the accommodation centres around the family-run guesthouses listed below.
As Jaffna slowly opens up, more and more hotels are becoming available (we spotted a number under construction on our travels there).
There are some top-range hotels available, but most are mid-range yet comfortable.
D’VILA GARDEN HOUSE | Our choice of accommodation was comfortable, quiet, and with lovely hosts. Prices and availability here
JETWING JAFFNA | An upmarket and sustainably-minded hotel right in the heart of Jaffna with incredible rooftop views. Prices and availability here
THE THINNAI | A casual, modern hotel with an incredible pool and garden area. Prices and availability here
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO JAFFNA, SRI LANKA
WHERE IS JAFFNA?
Jaffna is the capital of the Jaffna district and is located on the northernmost peninsula of Sri Lanka.
Distance-wise, it’s about 400km north of Colombo and 315km northwest of Kandy.
HOW TO GET TO JAFFNA
TRAIN
Definitely the quickest and most scenic way to get from Colombo to Jaffna is via train, which runs through the heart of Sri Lanka via Anuradhapura.
The Colombo Fort to Jaffna train departs 5 times a day, with the earliest departure at 05:45 am and the final departure at 20:30.
You can pre-book your train tickets here, which we suggest you do as it books out very quickly.
It takes around 7- 8 hours, and the busiest section is between Anuradhapura and Colombo (so be sure to have your seats sorted by then!).
The journey also takes you past the infamous Elephant Pass, a slip of land connecting the Jaffna peninsula to the rest of Sri Lanka, which played a critical role in many battles throughout the Civil War.
THE DETAILS
Cost | LKR 600 per person for 2nd class, LKR 350 per person for 3rd class
Departure Times | From Colombo Fort only: 0545, 0635, 0940, 1150, 2030
BOOK | Pre-book your train tickets from Colombo to Jaffna
BUS
It is possible to get from Colombo to Jaffna via an overnight bus, however, we recommend breaking up the journey by stopping in Kandy or Dambulla overnight.
We took a local bus from Dambulla to Jaffna which took around 7 hours, and while it’s an easy trip to make, be warned that the the hard wooden seats can get uncomfortable after a while!
This cost us 170r each.
THE DETAILS
Cost | LRK 400 - 500 per person
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT JAFFNA, SRI LANKA
We visited Jaffna in November and the weather was absolutely perfect, despite being known to be a wet month.
The best time to visit is anytime between January - March, when little rain occurs and the temperatures are manageable (learn more on our Sri Lanka travel tips post).
Do avoid April if possible, when the average temperature is 34 degrees - and have travelled to Sri Lanka in this month before, we can attest that it’s also a bajillion degrees of humidity!
HOW LONG SHOULD YOU SPEND IN JAFFNA?
Your travel style and length of stay in Sri Lanka will determine how long you wish to stay in Jaffna, however, we feel you can adequately experience its attractions and warm hospitality in 3 days.
Spending more time will allow you to understand the culture of the North better, however, we’re aware most travellers to Sri Lanka have less than 30 days, so while the North is appealing, the South is the star of the show.
SRI LANKA BACKPACKING ESSENTIALS | EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR YOUR SRI LANKA ITINERARY
Travelling through Sri Lanka comes with a unique set of needs. To help you have a comfortable, happy journey, we recommend bringing the following items with you:
Reusable water bottle | THE BEST INVESTMENT WE’VE EVER MADE! We use the Grayl water purification bottles, which allows us to fill up from any water source, anywhere in the world (including train taps!).
Biodegradable Wet Wipes | Keep clean without destroying the planet!
Hand sanitiser | is not something we’d actually recommend normally, but in Sri Lanka it can be a bloody great investment.
A spork | to cut down on unnecessary plastic usage at meal times
Power bank | don’t get caught out without power for your devices
READ | check out our eco-friendly packing guide to travel through Sri Lanka consciously and comfortably
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN SRI LANKA
Overwhelmingly, we’ve found the country to be extremely safe and friendly, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t issues with petty theft or personal safety at times.
You absolutely need to have travel insurance that ensures you and your belongings are protected here.
Here are our recommendations, based on 8+ years of full-time travel:
FOR TRAVELLERS | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out-of-pocket fees.
* The Common Wanderer readers 5% off your policy by booking through our link here
FOR DIGITAL NOMADS | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
CAR INSURANCE | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
EXPLORE OF SRI LANKA WITH THESE GUIDES
SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS | 31 incredible things to do in Sri Lanka, Our essential 3-week Sri Lanka Itinerary, Our 7-day Sri Lanka Itinerary, Everything you need to know before you visit Sri Lanka (39 essential tips!), Where to stay in Galle
SRI LANKA CITY GUIDES | We’ve got in-depth guides to Colombo, Galle, Kandy, Jaffna, Hiriketiya, Mirissa Beach, Ahangama Beach
CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS | Our essential guides to both Sigiriya and Pidurangala, A guide to Polonnaruwa, How to visit Yala National Park, and Udawalawe National Park
ELLA, SRI LANKA | Our complete guide to Ella, a guide to the Nine Arch Bridge, How to see Diyaluma Falls, Ella accommodation options for every budget (+ our recommendations)
TRANSPORT GUIDES | Our definitive guide to the Kandy to Ella train, how to get from Colombo to Kandy, how to get from Colombo to Galle
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Read our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and your friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
Have you been to Jaffna yourself? Help your fellow travellers our by sharing your favourite things to do in Jaffna in the comments below!
EXPLORE MORE OF SRI LANKA WITH THESE POSTS
Some of the links on this post are affiliate links.
If you choose to purchase using these links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please know that by using these affiliate links, you're directly supporting The Common Wanderer to stay wandering, the running costs of the site, and our ability to provide you with free content to help you on your travels.
That, and you're officially a legend.
