An Essential Guide to Kandy, Sri Lanka's Capital of Culture (2024 Guide)
Looking for the ultimate guide on places to visit in Kandy?!
From the very best things to do in Sri Lanka’s cultural capital, to where to stay, our top tips, and how to get around, we’ve got you covered.
Many travellers come to Sri Lanka for the white-sand beaches and epic surf; but right at the island’s mountainous emerald-swathed heart lies a spiritual, charming area full of tea plantations, misty hills, and those famous blue train carriages.
The gateway to all of this hill-country action (and the greatest train journey in the world!) is Kandy; City of Kings, Sri Lanka’s second city and the island’s undisputed historical and cultural capital.
Protected by its geographic position and less-accessible terrain, the powerful ancient Kingdom of Kandy was able to hold off the advancement of both the Portuguese and Dutch colonisers through the 1500s and 1600s, becoming the last standing bastion of independent Ceylon. In doing so, the city was able to preserve the unique customs, culture, and arts that had been heavily subdued elsewhere in the country - until 1815 when it finally succumbed to British rule.
Today, that cultural preservation lives on in the city’s many significant cultural and historic sites, forming the basis for all the very best places to visit in Kandy. The best-known of these is the Temple of the Tooth relic; Buddhism’s most important religious shrine, and said to be the location of a portion of Buddha’s tooth.
But Kandy is also so much more than its number one attraction; it's a city of delightful chaos, with its bustling streets, ancient temples, colonial architecture, aristocratic gardens and the glorious Kandy lake forming the backdrop to a perfect few days amongst Sri Lanka's lush green hills.
There are so many great things to see and do in Kandy, and we highly recommend spending a few days in the city to take it all in.
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KANDY TRAVEL GUIDE OVERVIEW
THINGS TO DO | Temple of the Scared Tooth, Ride the Kandy to Ella Train, Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya, Explore the historic Three Temple Loop, Walk Kandy Lake, Take in the Kandy’s Markets
WHERE TO EAT | Balaji Dosa, Mandiya, Hideout Lounge, Cafe Secret Alley
WHERE TO STAY | Helga’s Folly or Ozo Kandy
HOW TO GET AROUND | Walking, tuk-tuk
WHEN TO VISIT | Between January and April
WHERE TO STAY IN KANDY
HOTEL
As it’s the cultural capital of Sri Lanka, accommodation for all budgets in Kandy is quite easy to come by
We’ve recommended three hotels below, but you can also search for all hotel options for Kandy, Sri Lanka using Booking.com.
HELGA’S FOLLY | Decorated in a whimsical theme with original Sri Lankan artwork and murals, this is the most unique place you’ll stay in Sri Lanka. Prices and availability here
OZO KANDY | Sophisticated, chic, stylish - Ozo is a stunning, well-located hotel with an epic rooftop pool. Prices and availability here
KANDY CITY VIEW | Where we spent three nights in Kandy. Simple, sizable rooms close to town. Prices and availability here
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN KANDY, SRI LANKA
#1 TEMPLE OF THE SACRED TOOTH RELIC, KANDY
Never has a decaying tooth held so much significance to so many people, yet that’s exactly the reason that the impressive Temple of the Sacred Tooth and Royal Complex (Sri Dalada Maligawa) is the number one attraction in Kandy.
This ornate golden-roofed temple houses the most important Buddhist relic in Sri Lanka - a tooth of Buddha brought to the island in the 4th century.
The temple was built between 1867 and 1707 specifically to honour this sacred relic, and the temple has long since been a place of importance for both Sri Lankan and international visitors. In fact, most Sri Lankans believe they need to visit the temple at least once in their lives to pay homage to the toothy treasure.
Needless to say, visiting the relic was our top mission on our first visit to Kandy in 2016. Alas, due to mistiming our entry (standard team TCW mistake-making right there!) and the very brief viewing times, our wish wasn’t granted. That said, the mission wasn’t a complete failure; the temple with its ornate carvings and colourful depictions of Buddha blew our minds.
Inside the main shrine, devotees file slowly through the various rooms on their way to the casket, bending to leave offerings and pray quietly below the elaborate Buddhist murals. It’s a deeply spiritual place, and a quiet reverence floods each room.
If you visit during the annual Esala Perahera (Festival of the Tooth), you may see the tooth’s gilded casket paraded around the city accompanied by 65 colourfully decorated elephants (which we obviously don’t condone - read why here).
THE DETAILS
Where | Temple of the Sacred Tooth and Royal Complex (Sri Dalada Maligawa), Kandy
Cost | LKR 1,500 per person, or LKR 1,000 from SAARC countries
Tips | Both females and males need to cover up legs and shoulders. Shoes must be removed before entering the temple
BUCKET LIST | 31 Incredible things to do in Sri Lanka
#2 ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS/PERADENIYA SRI LANKA
We're big fans of sprawling city parks, and the Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya, the largest and most extensive in Sri Lanka, are amongst the best we've visited anywhere in the world.
If these gardens feel insanely grand, it’s because they were formerly reserved exclusively for Kandyan royals to stroll through before they were transformed into the Botanic Gardens in1821 at the behest of the ruling British.
Today, even measly commoners like us are allowed to wander the grounds, which are now home to over 10,000 trees spread across 60 hectares. The gardens also showcase all of Sri Lanka’s unique flora along with representative species from all around the tropical world.
We definitely recommend visiting the impressive and totally insta-worthy avenue of royal palms; a beautiful tree-lined pathway in the interior of the gardens. The famous Orchid garden and otherworldly Cannonball tree, planted by King George and Queen Mary during their visit in 1901, are also absolutely worth the visit. When you’re done sightseeing, there are also a number of expansive lawns in which to relax and escape the Sri Lankan heat.
As one of the best places to visit in Kandy, We recommend including the gardens in a day tour itinerary, or as part of the three-temple tour (see below).
THE DETAILS
Where | Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya
Cost | LKR 1,500 per person entry
How to get to Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya | You can hire a tuk tuk to the gardens for around LKR 400, or include the gardens in a Kandy day tour itinerary.
A cheaper alternative is to catch the number 644 bus from near the Kandy Clock Tower, which will take you directly to the garden, for around LKR 20.
#3 KANDY CULTURAL DANCE SHOW
We’ve got to admit, we tend to give ‘cultural shows’ a wide berth when travelling. Often, they feel like the commercialisation of a culture, an ill-conceived attempt at tourist dollars then falls flat. However, after attending the spectacular Aarti Festival in Nepal, we decided to move our grievances aside and visit the Kandy Cultural Dance Show.
And what a show.
The artistic show, filled with incredible costumes, dances, acrobatics and fire walking, was a seriously stimulating experience from start to finish, and one we couldn’t keep our eyes off.
We witnessed many Sri Lankan dance types such as Magul Bera, Puja Natuma, Devol Natuma, which are techniques unique to areas of the island and are usually passed on from generation to generation, and each dance provides a unique insight into Sri Lanka’s long cultural background. The dances depict a range of cultural experiences, such as the majestic walk of the elephant, the colourful performance of the peacock and the mystical movements of the cobra.
A 35+ year institution, the Kandy Cultural Dance Show is one of the best things to do in Kandy.
The show starts at 5:30 pm daily, and is housed close to Kandy lake at the Kandy Lake Club. We highly recommend booking tickets in advance, which you can do here
THE DETAILS
Where | Kandy Lake Club
Cost | 1,250 LKR per person
Opening Hours | From 5.30 PM daily
SURF’S UP | the best things to see and do in Unawatuna
#4 VISIT THE HISTORIC THREE-TEMPLE LOOP OF KANDY
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth relic might be the most important of Kandy’s temples, but it’s definitely not the only temple worth visiting.
Jump in a tuk-tuk and get out of the hustle and bustle of downtown Kandy for the day to the lush countryside of Gampola, where numerous Kandyan-era temples and shrines still stand proudly over green fields and quiet winding lanes.
Three of these temples, Gadaladeniya Viharaya, Embekke, and Lankathilaka form the aptly named 'three temple loop', and serve as a living history of Sri Lanka's extensive Buddhist heritage and craftsmanship.
We recommend visiting the three temple loop and The Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya in one day as part of a tuk-tuk tour (this tour is highly rated and 100% worth it).
GALADENIYA VIHARAYA
Dating from the 14th century, Gadaladeniya Viharaya is built of stone on a rock cliff and contains gilded, seated Buddha statues. In the centre of the temple lies the Banyan tree, as well as ponds formed on the rock face.
During our visit, we were able to speak with the temple manager, who told us all about the temple's varied history. He's also a very talented artist, should you want to buy some Sri Lankan art.
EMBEKKE DEVALAYA
Embekke Devalaya was built in the 14th century by King Vikramabahu III, and is dedicated to the Hindu deity Mahasen. The temples are famous for their carved wooden pillars, which depict both humans and animals, as well as its three main three sections, the ‘Sanctum of Garagha’, the ‘Dancing Hall’ and the ‘Drummers’ Hall’, which houses the best carvings.
LANKATHILAKA
The final, and in our opinion, most impressive temple in outer Kandy is Lankathilaka Vihara. Perched on a rocky outcrop, this 14th-century temple is one-half Buddhist, one-half Hindu, and incorporates a number of historically significant relics, including a seated Buddha image, rock-face inscriptions featuring both Sinhala and Tamil section, and stone Elephant figures.
Set amongst forests, rice fields and a small village, Lankathilaka is one temple we recommend you don't miss.
THE DETAILS
Where | Gadaladeniya Viharaya, Embekke Devalaya, and Lankathilaka Vihara, outer Kandy
Cost | Each temple costs LKR 300 per person
BOOK | This immerse day tour takes in the three-temple loop
#5 BAHIRAWAKANDA VIHARA BUDDHA STATUE
The beautiful Bahirawakanda buddha statue sits atop Bahirawa Kanda hill as if overseeing the daily life of Kandyans below.
Built in 1972, the sculpted white statue is one of the tallest in Sri Lanka (at 27m in height), and can be seen from just about anywhere in Kandy. Bahirawakanda offers incredible panoramic views over the green and blue hues of Kandy and beyond and is best to visit at sunset when the city is bathed in a golden glow as the sun drops behind the mountains in the distance.
As always, remember to remove shoes and hats before entering the temple complex.
THE DETAILS
Where | Bahirawakanda buddha statue, Kandy
Cost | LKR 250 entry per person
kandy day tour | our guide to the incredible pidurangala rock
#6 KANDY TO ELLA TRAIN RIDE
They say that the journey is what counts, not the destination - and we have to admit, when it comes to Sri Lanka they may just be right.
That’s not to say that the destinations in the teardrop isle aren’t incredible (they are!); it’s just that the clackety train tracks from Kandy to Ella are home to probably the most insanely picturesque train ride in the entire world.
Whether you’re sitting in the doorway of a crowded carriage with your feet dangling over the tracks, or half-falling out the window from your seat inside as you strain your neck out the window the best view; winding through misty forests, verdant tea plantations, over gushing waterfalls and streams, and past colourful towns and excitable locals will be one of the most memorable journeys of your life.
Beyond the epic views, the vibe is what makes this train ride so special. Prepare to be met by some of the most genuine smiles you’ll ever encounter; groups of locals singing, playing drums, or dancing (or doing all three!), vendors rushing through with flasks full of sweet chai, and every window or doorway crammed with the heads of tourists and locals alike, all staring in amazement at the views and jostling for the best views.
When we first visited Sri Lanka in 2016, the Kandy to Ella train ride was yet to really hit the big time, however, due to its current popularity, you need to book your travel in advance (usually 1 - 2 days prior). The train may also be quite crowded (especially during peak season), so be warned you may need to push your way onto the train (as long as you do this respectfully it won’t cause offence).
Third class may be the cheapest option, but in our opinion, it's also the best, as it allows you to sit/hang out of the doorways, and is filled with friendly locals keen to help you enjoy your experience.
Tip: the most scenic part of the journey is from Nanu Oya to Ella, through the dense forest of the Horton Plains national park, so we recommend getting the window seat or standing in between the doorways, and enjoying the views as they pass by.
THE DETAILS
Where | Kandy train station, Kandy
Cost | 2nd class: LKR 240 per person, 3rd class: LKR 175 per person
Kandy to Ella train times | Express trains depart Ella to Kandy - 0847 and 1110 (subject to change)
Read more | Our Kandy to Ella train guide, Our guide to Ella
#7 WALK THE PICTURESQUE KANDY LAKE
Right at the heart of Kandy is the Kandy Lake; surprisingly peaceful despite the bustling road that winds around it, and the backdrop to many of the city’s major attractions including the Temple of the Tooth Relic, and Udawattakele Forest reserve.
The artificial lake was built in 1807 by Sri Wickrama Rajasinha, the last ruler of the kingdom of Kandy, who wanted to build a waterway to get to the other side of the valley. Things didn't quite go to plan though. The local tribes protested the labour, at which point the king ordered they be put to death on stakes. Gruesome.
After its completion, the island in the middle was used for Sri Wickrama Rajasinha's personal harem. When the British eventually moved in during the early 1800s, the island became an ammunition store.
The idyllic lake is the perfect place to get your bearings in Kandy, and to see some of the local wildlife - at one point, we thought we were about to be attacked by a crocodile, only to realise it was an extremely large monitor lizard! Beware their backends though, they have a mighty strong tail whip that you don’t want to be on the receiving end of.
It takes about an hour to walk the lake’s circumference (just over 3kms), and our favourite part was around the area next to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
THE DETAILS
Where | Kandy Lake, Kandy
Cost | Free
#8 HIKE HANTHANA MOUNTAIN
Despite its verdant surroundings and stunning lake, Kandy can feel a little overwhelming and claustrophobic at times, and the constant noise and hustle of the downtown had our eyes looking upward, towards the endless mountains that surround the city.
So, we decided to escape the city to experience one of Kandy’s (and possibly the country’s) most popular day hikes.
Hanthana Mountain Range is located about 30 minutes outside of town (and close to the Ceylon Tea Museum), and is a favourite among local hikers and Kandyans for its incredible panoramic views.
The trail begins easy, amongst lush tea plantations that are a staple of Sri Lankan scenery.
After around 30 minutes, the path ascends through more challenging terrain - we’re talking 15 minutes of large steps with towering grass on either side that increase your heart rate to the max. The views, though are incredible, and the higher you go, the better they get.
Eventually, you’ll arrive at the Hanthana ridge line, which slowly snakes its way through jungle and grassy plains to the final vantage point, which offers spectacular panorama views of Kandy and Peradeniya, and Kandy in the distance on one side, and the vast, tea-covered mountains to the east on the other.
We sat for a good hour enjoying the cool breeze and gorgeous views without another soul in sight - the mountain has a subtle way of making the hustle and bustle of city life seem far away.
The Hanthana Mountain hike is a great option for travellers who are spending more than two nights in Kandy, but if you’re on a shorter trip around Sri Lanka, save your hiking for Ella - where Mini Adams Peak or Ella Rock hikes offer equally impressive views, with greater accessibility.
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Our hike was booked through our accommodation, but you can book a tour in advance here. Alternatively, if you wish to do the hike independently, take a tuk-tuk to the Hanthana ticket office (here), and follow the trail to the Hanthana World End viewpoint (here)
Overall, the hike is moderate in difficulty, but a medium level of fitness is required - the ascent was tough, especially in the heat, while the descent put a lot of strain on our weary knees (we’re getting old!). The high humidity adds another challenge.
If you have hiking boots, wear them - otherwise, running shoes will suffice. Pack plenty of water (2 litres should do), some snacks, and your camera.
And finally, leeches can be a problem in wet and shoulder seasons - so wear pants and use bug spray to prevent bites.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hanthana Mountain Range hike, Kandy
Best Time to Visit | Between December - April, when the weather is relatively dry and the visibility is at its best. Start your hike early to avoid the midday heat
Difficulty Level | Moderate, suitable for both novices and experienced hikers. A decent level of fitness is required
Duration | 4km - 4 to 6 hours
What to Bring | Wear comfortable hiking shoes, carry water, snacks, and a raincoat (the weather can be unpredictable). Don't forget your camera
Tips | Remember to leave no trace, keeping the mountain as pristine and beautiful as you found it
#9 EXPLORE THE MARKET STREETS OF KANDY OLD TOWN
We love the hustle and bustle of local markets, especially in Sri Lanka. There's always something to see, someone to meet, or more importantly for Mim, something to eat.
Located between Sri Delada Veediya Rd and Colombo St, the old town of Kandy is home to a labyrinth of market stores selling everything from textiles to incense. The loud and chaotic streets are filled with local Kandyans going about their daily business, and we found it a great place to get a feel for the 'real' Kandy.
Some sights worth checking out within the old town include the Giragama Walawwa, the oldest walawwa (former royal building) in Kandy, the historic and stunning Red Mosque of Kandy, and the colourful Kataragama Devalaya Hindu temple.
THE DETAILS
Where | Walk the streets between Kandy Clock Tower and Colombo St.
#10 VISIT THE CEYLON TEA MUSEUM
If you’re a human being (which we assume you are!), you’ll likely be an avid tea drinker. And if you’re like Mim, you’ll probably have three a day. If this is you, then all your tea dreams will come true in Sri Lanka.
Sri Lankan tea is some of the World's best due to the altitude at which it is grown, and tea bushes cover 25% of Sri Lanka's surface, so it’s a big deal here.
If you want to learn more about the whole tea making history and process, we suggest a visit to the Ceylon Tea Museum. One of the best places to visit in Kandy for tea lovers, the museum provides a wonderful historical overview of tea in Sri Lanka, starting with the pioneers James Talyor, and Thomas Lipton (yeah, the Lipton Tea founder!) through to the present day.
The exhibition is housed in the historic Hantane Tea Factory, and features a number of exhibitions, including vintage tea-processing paraphernalia and detailed information on the whole tea production process. At the end of your tour, there’s a cuppa ready and waiting. Winning!
Learning the science behind a perfect cuppa was enlightening and something we definitely recommend for any traveller visiting Sri Lanka, especially if the weather in Kandy is average.
THE DETAILS
Where | Ceylon Tea Museum
Opening Hours | Tuesday - Sunday: 8:30 am - 3:30pm
#11 TAKE A DAY TRIP TO SIGIRIYA & DAMBULLA
If you’re time-poor but culturally curious, visiting the rock fortress of Sigiriya, and the historic cave temple of Dambulla should be high on your Kandy bucket list.
Often referred to as the eighth wonder of the world, Sigiriya is one of the 'must see' places on any Sri Lankan bucket list (read our guide to Sigiriya here).
Located right in the heart of Sri Lanka, Sigiriya, otherwise known as Lion Rock, is an ancient palace and fortress built in 480AD atop a unique rock island that rises 200m above the jungle below.
The Fortress, full of abandoned palaces, gardens, waterways and frescoes, has always been an important part of Sri Lanka's history and has seen many wars and invasions play out over the years.
Starting in the gardens, the hike to the summit of Sigiriya is demanding; it is 1200 steps after all. You’ll then pass through ancient frescoes, the 1600-year-old Mirror Wall, and the famous lion paws.
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The famous Royal rock temple complex of Dambulla is home to some of the most impressive historical artwork in Sri Lanka, and a must-see on any Sri Lankan itinerary.
Sitting proudly atop a 160m rock, this UNESCO World Heritage site contains five separate caves with over 150 Buddhist statues and paintings, some dating back over 2,000 years. These are related to Gautama Buddha and his life, with murals covering over 2,100 square metres of cave walls, including depictions of the temptation by the demon Mara, and Buddha's first sermon.
Thankfully, both are super-easy to visit on a day trip from Kandy, and this highly-rated day tour allows you to see them in comfort. The tour includes hotel pick-up, entry fees to both attractions, and a local lunch, so provides superb value for those looking to see as much of Sri Lanka as possible.
THE DETAILS
Where | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka, Dambulla cave temple complex, Dambulla
READ | Our complete guide to Sigiriya, Sri Lanka’s rock fortress wonder
BOOK | This highly-rated Sigiriya & Dambulla day tour
#12 EAT INCREDIBLE MASALA DOSA AT BALAJI DOSAI
Our love of Sri Lankan food is very, very real.
From the morning-noon-and-night staple of 'rice and curry' right through to our fave street food in the world, kottu roti, we love almost every dish this country offers.
Given the prominence of Kandy on the Sri Lankan tourist trail, we came to the city with high expectations of the culinary scene here. After several expensive failures (including Tripadvisor's highest-ranked Kandy restaurant), we concluded there were simply no restaurants as good as in the South.
That was until we came across Balaji Dosai, a non-pretentious Sri Lankan and South Indian vegetarian restaurant near the Temple of the Tooth, serving the most ridiculously delicious masala dosa. Finally, we'd come across good food again and relished it by eating WAY too much.
We recommend the cheese dosa (LKR 350) and standard masala dosa (LKR 250), topped off with a masala chai (LKR 100).
If you’re keen on a rice and curry fix, don’t sleep on visiting Mandiya (map), a small yet wonderfully authentic restaurant just outside the old town that serves some of the best curries on the Island.
Although we're sure there are many better fine dining restaurants in Kandy (although none that we came across), we recommend grabbing one (or all) of your meals at Balaji Dosai.
THE DETAILS
Where | Balaji Dosa, 9 Senanayake Vidiya, Kandy
Cost | Dosa’s start at LKR 250
#13 ADMIRE THE VIEWS OF KANDY FROM ARTHUR’S SEAT
Viewpoints are inherently naff - you come, you click, you move on. And Arthur’s Seat, located in the hills of Kandy, is no different.
The views are, admittedly, incredible, offering sweeping panoramas across Kandy Lake, the old town and the Sacred Temple of the Tooth. At dusk, it’s amazing to see the sunset over Kandy, and the city lights begin to sparkle.
But it’s just that, a viewpoint, with not much else around. So for similar views, with an attraction attached, we suggest the Sri Maha Bodhi Temple.
THE DETAILS
Where | Arthur’s Seat viewpoint, Kandy
#14 WATCH A GAME OF CRICKET AT PALLEKELLE STADIUM
Sri Lanka’s national sport is cricket, and here in the south of the country, it’s very much a religion. Everywhere you look, you’ll see a game of cricket being played, while for us Australians, the topic of conversation invariably ends up with Shane Warne or Ricky Ponting (famous Australian cricketers, for those non-cricket fans!).
Although not as picturesque as Galle Fort International Stadium, Kandy’s Pallekelle Stadium is still a great place to watch a game. The crowds are energetic, the air much cooler than in Galle, and the overall experience laidback, much like Sri Lanka in general.
Featuring international games throughout the year including test matches, one-day matches and 20/20 games, there are a range of games on throughout the year which would be well worth visiting if you’re in town.
Built in 2009, this 35,000 stadium is about 30 minutes from downtown Kandy, surrounded by lush rainforest. We suggest checking tour schedules and booking a ticket if any of Australia, India or England are in town.
THE DETAILS
Where | Pallekelle International Stadium
Schedule | See up to date schedule here
#15 STROLL THROUGH UDAWATTAKELE FOREST RESERVE
Despite being quite small in size and population, Kandy, with its constant beeping of horns, overzealous touts and relentless heat and humidity, can get a little intense at times. That's why a stroll through the Udawattakele forest reserve, situated behind the Temple of the Tooth Relic, is one of the best things to do in Kandy.
Once the king's personal garden, Udawattakele is now an urban forest and wildlife sanctuary home to several species of mammals, reptiles, and other animals. There's a hiking path within the sanctuary, which is about a 5km round trip.
While there are a few sights to see within the reserve, namely the water pond, the highest peak of Kodimale, Senkanda Cave, and several Buddhist temples, we enjoyed walking through the forest under the thick canopy, and escaping the hustle and bustle of the city and experiencing tropical nature at its best.
THE DETAILS
Where | Udawattakele Sanctuary, Kandy
Cost | LKR 650 entry per person
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A MAP OF THE BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN KANDY, SRI LANKA
We’ve created a detailed map of the best places to visit in Kandy, as well as where to eat, which you can download for your visit.
To save our map, click the star on the right of the map title while will download the map to: your places - maps in your Google account.
Easy!
KANDY TRIP PLANNING ESSENTIALS
WHERE IS KANDY?
Set amongst the misty hills and dense forests of Sri Lanka's central province, Kandy is located about three hours northeast of the capital of Colombo.
Kandy is one of the largest and most culturally significant cities in Sri Lanka, with a population of around 110,000 calling the city home.
WHEN TO VISIT KANDY, SRI LANKA
Due to its position in the mountainous central region of Sri Lanka, Kandy has a wetter and cooler climate than most of the country.
For optimal weather conditions, we recommend visiting Kandy between January and April. Although the weather may be slightly warmer and humid, the days will be (mostly) rain-free. From May to July, and from October to December, the region experiences its two monsoon seasons, during which time the weather is wetter and more volatile.
We visited Kandy in both April and November and while both times of year were manageable, November was far wetter, which made it a lot harder to see everything we wanted. On the plus side, it was devoid of tourists and easier to see most attractions.
It's worth noting that the Sinhalese New Year occurs during the middle of April, which can make getting to Kandy (or anywhere in Sri Lanka) a huge problem, so we'd advise avoiding travelling to Sri Lanka over this period.
HOW TO GET AROUND KANDY
WALKING
No matter where you stay within Kandy, it's a pretty walkable city. Walking is definitely also the best way to see all the best things to do in Kandy, including the temples, markets, and other sights around the lake.
If you're travelling as a group or with a partner, it's fine to walk the city at night, however, we'd advise against this if you're travelling alone (this is just a standard safety precaution as you’d take anywhere else - Kandy is a very safe city).
TUK TUK
Walking is the easiest way to explore the major sites within Kandy city centre, but your best bet for exploring the outer temples of Kandy and Peradeniya Gardens is hiring a tuk-tuk.
Use apps such as Pick Me or Uber to book and pay for tuk-tuks as this will give you the best rates and increase safety.
The city does have a poor reputation for its tuk-tuk mafia - it's very important to negotiate fares hard before you get in the tuk-tuk in Kandy, as drivers are notorious for overcharging unsuspecting tourists.
BUSES
Like most of Sri Lanka, Kandy and its suburbs are serviced by a constant line of buses, making it a very cheap alternative to the city's tuk-tuks.
The main bus station is located next to Kandy station, however this services long-distance routes only. If you're looking to explore the best sights to see in Kandy, head to the Torrington bus station downtown.
HOW TO GET FROM COLOMBO TO KANDY, SRI LANKA
There are a number of ways to complete the scenic 110km trip from Colombo to Kandy, including by train, bus and car.
TRAIN
For the more intrepid travellers amongst you, the train from Colombo to Kandy is quite the adventure.
Starting in the chaotic and sweaty Colombo, the train journey slowly makes its way north of the city, before starting the ascent to Kandy. The 3-hour journey passes some pretty spectacular scenery; over narrow ledges and through dense forests. Sit on the right-hand side of the train to enjoy the best views.
Like with most train journeys in Sri Lanka, it's not just the scenery that makes the ride enjoyable, it's also the vibe. Predominantly ridden by locals, the journey is as much a cultural experience as it is a scenic one. Chat with the locals around you, people-watch the lively carriage, and get a nice insight into Sri Lankan life.
The Colombo to Kandy train ride cost ranges from LKR 180 for 3rd Class, LKR 280 for 2nd class, and LKR 500 for first class (air-conditioned). In our opinion, 2nd class is your best bet, as it also gives you the option of 3rd class should it be busy.
THE DETAILS
Where | Colombo Fort to Kandy Railway Station
Cost | LKR 180 for 3rd Class, LKR 280 for 2nd class, and LKR 500 for first class (air-conditioned)
Times | Departure times from Colombo Fort to Kandy are as follows: 0555, 0700, 0830, 1035, 1240, 1535, 1635, 1745
BOOK | Book your Colombo to Kandy train tickets here | book at least 32 days in advance
BUS
If trains aren't your thing, or you're on a strict budget, you can catch the public bus from Colombo bus station to Kandy easily.
If you've managed to snag a window seat (generally impossible on Sri Lankan buses), the drive from Colombo to Kandy is in many ways more spectacular than the train ride, as the road snakes its way through the countryside, rolling up and down before making the final ascent into the hill country. Be warned though, the final few hours through the suburbs of Kandy are a hard, long slog!
The Number 1 bus from Colombo to Kandy takes around three hours and CAN be uncomfortable sans seat, and costs a very cheap LKR 130 - 180.
Alternatively, take a comfortable, air-conditioned bus from Colombo to Kandy, which you can book in advance here.
THE DETAILS
What | #1 bus from Pettah Central bus station, Colombo to Kandy bus station
Cost | LKR 130 - 150 depending on the conductor
Times | Departure times from Pettah central bus station, Colombo to Kandy vary greatly, but services leave frequently 24 hours a day
BOOK | A/C Bus from Colombo to Kandy
CAR
It IS possible to get from Colombo to Kandy via private transfer/taxi, however, we feel it's cost-prohibitive and frankly, unnecessary. If you'd still prefer to travel via private transfer, speak to any local taxi drivers who will happily oblige.
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR KANDY, SRI LANKA
Overwhelmingly, we’ve found the country to be extremely safe and friendly, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t issues with petty theft or personal safety at times.
You absolutely need to have travel insurance that ensures you and your belongings are protected here.
Plus, as the pandemic has taught; many things can go wrong anywhere in the world and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.
For all travellers | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out of pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.
For digital nomads | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
EXPERIENCE SRI LANKA WITH THESE ESSENTIAL POSTS
SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS | 31 incredible things to do in Sri Lanka, Our essential 3-week Sri Lanka Itinerary, Our 7-day Sri Lanka Itinerary, Everything you need to know before you visit Sri Lanka (39 essential tips!), Where to stay in Galle
SRI LANKA CITY GUIDES | We’ve got in-depth guides to Colombo, Galle, Kandy, Jaffna, Hiriketiya, Mirissa Beach
CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS | Our essential guides to both Sigiriya and Pidurangala, A guide to Polonnaruwa, How to visit Yala National Park, and Udawalawe National Park
TRANSPORT GUIDES | Our definitive guide to the Kandy to Ella train, how to get from Colombo to Kandy, how to get from Colombo to Galle
ELLA, SRI LANKA | Our complete guide to Ella, a guide to the Nine Arch Bridge, How to see Diyaluma Falls, Ella accommodation options for every budget (+ our recommendations)
PHOTOGRAPHY | Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
Have you been to Kandy yourself?
Help your fellow travellers our by sharing your favourite things to do in Kandy, Sri Lanka in the comments below!
PLANNING YOUR SRI LANKA TRIP WITH THESE POSTS
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That, and you're officially a legend.
