Livraria Lello Bookstore, Porto: Where Harry Potter Dreams Come Alive
One of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, Porto’s Livraria Lello continues to wow travellers with its stunning beauty and Harry Potter charm. Read on for how to experience this bookstore for yourself.
Updated April 2024
Porto’s Livraria Lello is said to be the most beautiful bookstore in the world and having wandered through it ourselves, we can tell you that it definitely lives up to its reputation.
Designed in Neo-Gothic & Art Nouveau style by Francisco Xavier Esteves, the bookstore was officially inaugurated by the Lello brothers in 1906 and has been wowing locals and visitors ever since.
With intricately carved gothic wood-panelling, a grand curving staircase, floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, and a stained-glass skylight, it's definitely one of the best things to do in Porto.
Harry Potter-mania has certainly increased the popularity of the store, and it’s easy to see how the bookstore may have provided inspiration for aspects of Hogwarts.
Because of this, the bookstore is one of Porto’s busiest attractions and reflects the city’s growth as a tourism destination.
So to help you get the most out of your visit to the store, we’ve put together this in-depth Livraria Lello guide, featuring its history, general information, and tips for your visit.
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If you’re keen to delve further into the secret history of Harry Potter in Porto, this highly rated 3-hour Harry Potter tour with Skip-the-line access at Livraria Lello is absolutely worth it (see other popular Porto day tours).
You’ll see the cafe where JK Rowling penned the beginning of the series and some of the places that served as inspiration for her novels.
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LIVRARIA
LELLO
SNAPSHOT
WHERE | Rua das Carmelitas 144, Porto
OPENING HOURS | Daily, 9:30 am - 7 pm
ENTRANCE FEE | €5 online
TIPS | Pre-book your tickets to avoid the line
BOOK | This highly rated 3-hour Harry Potter tour with skip-the-line access at Livraria Lello
LIVRARIA LELLO ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
WHERE IS LIVRARIA LELLO & HOW TO GET THERE
Livraria Lello is located in the historic quarter of Porto, in Clerigos, at Rua das Carmelitas 144.
Located opposite Lisbon Plaza and a short distance from the famous Clerigos tower and Cordoaria Gardens, Livraria Lello is easy to access on foot, or by public transport.
If you’re travelling by Metro (Line D) or train, alight at the mesmerising São Bento station, then walk around 10 minutes up Rua dos Clérigos before turning right at Lisbon Plaza and crossing the gardens to the bookstore.
Alternatively, if you’re taking the historic 22 tram through the city, jump off at Clerigos and walk from there.
HOW TO BUY TICKETS | LIVRARIA LELLO PRIORITY TICKETS + ENTRANCE FEE
Visiting Livraria Lello Bookstore isn’t as easy as turning up and entering - unfortunately due to its popularity, you need to purchase tickets in advance, which can be done either online, or at the ticket office adjacent to the store.
It’s also worth noting that unless you have skip-the-line access, you’ll need to line up to enter Livraria Lello, regardless of when you purchased your ticket (which can take hours). It’s for this reason we suggest visiting early (opening), or joining a tour which allows skip-the-line access to the bookstore.
Below, we’ve provided an overview of the ticket types to avoid confusion:
SILVER TICKET VOUCHER | This is the standard entry ticket that allows access to Livraria Lello and costs €8, redeemable against any purchase inside the bookstore, effectively acting as a voucher towards books or other items sold there
GOLD TICKET VOUCHER | For those looking to bypass longer waiting lines, a priority access ticket offers speedy entry into the bookstore. Expensive, at €15.90, but worth it if you’re only in town for a short time. You’ll also receive a reserved book - choose between either ‘The Art of War’ and ‘Romeo and Juliet’
Upon entry, if you decide to make a purchase, the amount paid for the ticket can be deducted from your total bill at the bookstore. This effectively makes entry free for those who buy a book or any other item.
Tickets can be purchased here
BOOK A TOUR | Alternatively, this highly rated city walk tour includes skip-the-line access at Livraria Lello is worth it, as you’ll not only learn about the long and storied history of Porto but also gain further insight into Livraria Lello’s
BOOK | This highly rated city walk tour that includes skip-the-line access at Livraria Lello is absolutely worth it.
LIVRARIA LELLO OPENING HOURS
Livraria Lello is open between 9 am - 7:30 pm, Monday to Sunday.
During the popular months to visit Porto, the queues for Livraria Lello can be extremely long, so we suggest booking your tickets in advance and arriving as soon as the bookstore opens.
This way, you’ll get the store mostly to yourself to take photos and browse the book selection, while also reducing the stress on an otherwise extremely busy tourism destination.
If you plan to visit outside the popular months, good idea - Porto is far more pleasant during the shoulder and off-seasons, while still retaining the endless charm and beauty.
Livraria Lello is generally quieter over these periods too, so plan your visit then!
LIVRARIA LELLO HISTORY
Brothers José and António Lello, prominent members of Porto's intellectual bourgeoisie, founded a business dedicated to publishing and selling books in the late 1800s.
The brothers Lello, looking to expand their business, purchased the old Chardron Bookstore in 1894, and appointed designer Francisco Xavier Esteves to design and build their new bookstore, in a Neo-Gothic & Art Nouveau style.
The bookstore was officially inaugurated by the Lello brothers in 1906, it’s intricate Neo-Gothic styling, grand curving staircase, floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, and stained glass skylight is obvious features.
Beyond its obvious beauty, it still is a functioning bookstore, serving the people of Porto with Portuguese and English titles.
Despite the huge increase in visitation due to Harry Potter-mania, the bookstore was actually making a loss - tourists were visiting, but not buying anything, so in early 2015 an entrance fee was designated.
In 2016 & 2017, the shop was fully renovated to rejuvenate the space and to help manage the influx of tourists visiting due to Harry Potter-mania.
THE LIVRARIA LELLO EXPERIENCE
From the outside, Livraria Lello is a stunning example of neo-gothic & art nouveau architecture - intricate archways, extravagant frescoes and tiling, and elegant windows.
The facade is adorned by two painted figures representing Art and Science, and was the work of Jose Bielman, while below the figures is the famous Lello & Brother signage, painted in vivid colours to stand out from the rest of the building.
Stepping inside, the extravagant interior is set across two floors and was designed by Xavier Esteves.
The first thing you’ll notice is the grand art-nouveau central staircase, with its elaborately carved archways and columns. And while it might look like wood, it’s actually painted plaster, a design technique that came into fashion in the early 20th century. It’s here that most people pause, admire, and take photos.
Floor to ceiling bookshelves adorn the walls, while the brightly coloured stained glass window on the ceiling is emblazoned with the store’s motto; vecus in labour (dignity in work). It reminds, somewhat of the Sistine Chapel in Rome - a grandiose centrepiece to an otherwise incredible building.
Walking through the bookstore feels like stepping onto a Harry Potter set - It definitely feels as though you might bump into Harry or Ron amongst these shelves! It’s almost overwhelming at times, such is the beauty of the place.
Unfortunately, your visit to Livraria Lello is going to be busy - hopefully not too busy if you arrive early or during the off-season, with many visitors spending vast amounts of time trying to get the perfect photo of the staircase.
If you’re patient, you can also get this photo, but we also recommend taking your time to explore every facet of the building.
The English book section is somewhat wanting - there maybe 50 + titles there, so if you find something you like, we recommend purchasing.
THE INSPIRATION FOR HARRY POTTER?
Rumour has it that the bookstore and its intricate staircase (along with some key spots in Scotland) inspired the magic of JK Rowling's Hogwarts after she spent 2 years living in Porto teaching English in the early 90s.
Unfortunately, this rumour has been debunked by JK herself, who has said she never stepped foot in the bookstore itself but was no doubt inspired by the beauty of Porto itself.
JK did spend time writing her first book in Cafe Majestic, which itself has succumbed to Potter-hysteria in Porto, so we recommend visiting there.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL AT LIVRARIA LELLO
With Harry Potter-mania has come global acclaim for Livraria Lello, and the bookstore is now more a crowded theme park than a quiet space.
So has its lustre diminished? Well, given you have to pay and queue to enter, perhaps somewhat.
If you want to avoid the crowds, and help reduce overtourism (albeit limitedly), we recommend arriving early, or later in the day, or visiting during weekdays. This will help reduce the number of people visiting during peak hours, but also give you a better experience.
Secondly, the bookstore is just that, a bookstore, so instead of visiting just to get your Instagram shot, look to buy a book or two, thus supporting the Lello, its owners and local staff (remember the €5 ticket can be redeemed against the purchase of a book).
When inside, try to be quiet and respect those around you.
PORTO FAQS & TRAVEL INFORMATION
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THE PORTO CARD | A PORTO CITY BREAK ESSENTIAL
If you plan to cover most of the key Porto highlights during your visit to the city, we absolutely recommend you purchase a Porto Card.
Choose between 1,2,3, or 4-day cards, which get you free public transport and access to 6 museums, plus up to 50% discount (and some skip-the-line priority) at the majority of Porto’s major attractions, including the Igreja E Torre Dos Clérigos (Clérigos Tower) and Palácio Da Bolsa, and some restaurants.
It’s entirely worth it for those keen to see as much of the city as possible!
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HOW TO GET AROUND PORTO
Porto is an extremely easy city to navigate on foot, and a lot of its magic is found in exploring the quiet corners and local neighbourhoods.
That said, the distances between tourist spots can be large, so it's worth checking out the 'Porto Card' which gives you access to the public transport system, over 170 discounts and benefits and free access to 11 museums (and a free visit to a port wine cellar!) for between 1-4 days.
BOOK | Book your Porto card on GetYourGuide from £11 now
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR PORTO
If you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the current global situation has taught many people, things can go wrong anywhere in the world - and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.
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Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
*In normal times, we recommend using World Nomads travel insurance, but unfortunately they're not currently covering COVID-19 related claims right now.
READ THESE POSTS BEFORE VISITING PORTO!
PORTO GUIDES | 15+ Things to do in Porto, Where to stay in Porto, A 48 hour guide to Porto, The best day tours in, and from Porto
PORTO PHOTOS | A photo diary of our visit to Porto
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