The Best Things to do in Hanoi, Vietnam's Historic Capital
Experience the best things to do in Hanoi with our personally curated guide, including what to see and do, where to stay and eat, how to get there, and around.
It’s been nearly three months since our travels took us to Vietnam, and one thing has remained clear every time we’ve sat down to put our time in Hanoi into words:
No words we write here will ever fully prepare you for the assault on your senses that is Vietnam’s northern capital.
A dizzying whirlwind of honking traffic, crumbling colonial architecture, and deliciously fragrant flavours that give way to potent motorbike fumes all in the same breath; it’s a city that truly exists in the well-used traveller cliches of contrasts and juxtapositions.
It’s rapidly modernising but holds thousands of years of history within its streets. Overwhelmingly claustrophobic, especially in the tangled streets of the Old Quarter, it also hides pockets of tranquillity at places like Hoan Kiem Lake and the Temple of Literature.
The same broad streets that house strikingly beautiful belle époque facades and ancient temples are also often hazardous; choked by traffic fumes and charcoal smoke, tangled wires and a constant thrum of people.
As a traveller, you very quickly have to make a decision on whether you get swept along by its frenetic pace and allow the chaos to captivate and excite, or rally against it and find yourself spat back onto its ochre-hued streets.
We found ourselves oscillating between the two for most of our time there. One minute we’d be perched street-side over a mouthwatering tapioca-broth noodle soup and declare we were firmly in love; the next we’d be overwhelmed on its chaotic streets and looking for a quick exit to the nearest coffee shop.
Whether you end up falling in love with its streets or not, one thing is for certain: you’ll never forget the sensory experience of your first trip to Hanoi.
As the gateway to adventures in Ha Long Bay and Ninh Binh, it’s also fairly unavoidable that you’ll spend some time here on your Vietnam travels, so we’ve put this guide together on the best things to do in Hanoi, plus tips on how to beat the overwhelm, where to stay and eat, and how to get around the city.
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HANOI TRAVEL GUIDE
OVERVIEW
TOP THINGS TO SEE | Explore the Old Quarter, Temple of Literature, Hoan Kien Lake & Ngoc Son Temple, The Ho Chi Minh Precinct, Train Street
WHAT TO EAT | Bún Chả, Chả Cá Lã Vọng, Phở
WHERE TO STAY | Capella Hanoi, La Siesta Premium Hang Be & Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel
BEST TOURS | Hanoi street food tour, City highlights walking tour, Ha Long Bay 2 day cruise
BEST TIME TO VISIT | September to November
CURRENCY| Vietnamese Dong
HOW TO GET AROUND | Grab (car or scooter)
WHERE TO STAY IN HANOI
We recommend not making the mistake we did when staying in Hà Nội, which was booking an Airbnb well out of the Old Quarter to avoid any potential hustle, bustle or noise (a big consideration when travelling with a toddler!).
While we did have a lovely, quiet, immersive stay in a very local area it did mean we spent a lot of time sitting in Grabs in heavy traffic just to do simple sightseeing… which isn’t always the best fun to do with said toddler, or if you’re really looking to get the most of your time in a destination.
For that reason, we’ve included three recommendations for where to stay in the Old Quarter
THE CAPELLA HANOI | Combining French colonial and Art Deco styles, the Capella Hanoi is definitely one of the best hotels in Hanoi. In addition to the opulent rooms that exude colonial charm, there’s exquisite dining, a chic spa, and a central location near the Old Quarter
LA SIESTA PREMIUM HANG BE | Located in the heart of the Old Quarter, La Siesta Premium Hang Be has lovely, modern rooms, a rooftop bar with city views (definitely enjoy a sunset cocktail up here), and excellent customer service
OLD QUARTER VIEW HANOI HOSTEL | Located in the heart of the Old Quarter, the affordable and highly-rated Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel offers basic amenities, free Wi-Fi, and complimentary breakfast, making it a great choice for those on a budget
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN HANOI
EXPLORE HANOI’S BUSTLING OLD QUARTER
‘Overwhelming’ is the feeling we’d use to describe Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem.
The historic heart of the city and the centre point of thousands of years of Vietnamese history is chaotic.
The streets hum with life; every nook and cranny is filled with street vendors selling just about anything - fruits, cooking utensils, textiles, silver. The footpaths are crammed with street stalls and parked motorbikes, and invariably you’ll find yourself walking on the narrow roads, dodging honking scooters, cyclos and people. The weathered colonial buildings, towering trees, and constant noise also make it feel a little claustrophobic at times.
But that cacophonic overwhelm is also part of what makes exploring Hanoi’s Old Quarter an exciting place to explore.
The origins of this quarter can be traced back to the 11th century when King Ly Thai To moved the capital to this area, transforming it into a bustling centre of trade. Its streets were organically mapped by the guilds that settled there, and each street (Hang) was named for the specific trade that dominated its path - a tradition you’ll see reflected in street signs today. There’s Hang Bong, which sells cotton; Hang Bac, selling silver; Hang Duong, selling sugar; and Hang Non, selling hats.
As the city evolved over time, so too did Hoan Kiem’s architecture, reflecting the city’s rich and eclectic past as a powerful trading city. Buildings and pagodas dating to ancient Chinese dynasties are scattered amongst crumbling traditional Hanoi ‘tubular’ buildings and faded French colonial architecture.
To slowly wander the district’s streets today is to immerse yourself in the centuries of history reflected all around you - as well as a guaranteed way to fall in love with Hanoi.
Where to start? Choose a street, any street, and start walking. The Old Quarter loosely starts at Hoan Kiem Lake and encompasses the streets and alleyways towards Long Bien. Float through and follow your nose. Stop by a street food vendor for a snack, head deep into the markets and witness the clamour of commerce, spot ancient pagodas and architectural delights, and end the day on a blue stool sipping Bia Hoi by the dozen.
Alternatively, join a city walking tour and let a guide take you on the journey.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hanoi Old Quarter
Stop | A few recommended stops include Ta Hien Corner (pub street), Dong Xuan Market, Ô Quan Chưởng city gate, and Ly Trieu Quoc Su Pagoda
READ | Our curated guide to Hanoi’s Old Quarter
BOOK | This highly-rated Hanoi city walking tour
EXPLORE THE HO CHI MINH PRECINCT
You only need to spend a brief moment in Vietnam to realise that Ho Chi Minh is as revered today as he was 60 years ago.
A revolutionary leader and founding father of modern Vietnam, Uncle Ho is celebrated for his tireless commitment to Vietnam's liberation from colonial rule. Under his leadership, Vietnam defeated the French at Dien Bien Phu in 1954, a historic turning point that led to the division of Vietnam and set the stage for the Vietnam War.
Ho Chi Minh's vision extended beyond the battlefield; he aspired to create a socialist republic and pushed for social reforms to eliminate poverty and promote education.
While his legacy might be complex, especially from a Western gaze, he is immortalised in the hearts of the Vietnamese people, not only through the renaming of Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City but also through the various historical reference points in Hanoi, in which he spent time and now rests.
Within the Ho Chi Minh precinct, there are a few major attractions that we suggest visiting (see below). Although you can book a guided tour (here), we actually think it’s best to explore the surroundings at your own pace - unless, of course, you’re interested in Vietnamese history.
HO CHI MINH MAUSOLEUM
Inaugurated in 1975, the brutalist Ho Chi Minh mausoleum stands as a celebration of Uncle Ho’s life and achievements. Inside, in a glass case houses the preserved body of Ho Chi Minh, which has become a site of pilgrimage for millions of Vietnamese and international visitors each year, who queue up for the chance to pay their respects to "Uncle Ho" in a quiet, controlled procession.
The experience itself is quick - you’re not allowed to stop, but slowly encircle the glass casket before moving on. If you’re not keen to enter, you can admire the mausoleum from the large square adjoining the area.
Entry is free, save for a quick security checkpoint, but you’ll need to cover up.
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE
The striking, bright yellow facade and green shutters of the adjacent Presidential Palace juxtapose strikingly with Ho Chi Minh’s stark Mausoleum. The former residence for the French Governor-General of Indochina, the stunning palace and surrounding grounds were offered to Ho Chi Minh upon independence in 1945.
He refused on principle, instead opting for a more modest dwelling in the palace grounds, known as the Stilt House (see below). Constructed between 1900 and 1906, and set against a backdrop of lush gardens, the Presidential Palace is worth a look, although only from the outside - the building is still a working Government building, so the interior remains off-limits.
HO CHI MINH’S STILT HOUSE
Ho Chi Minh’s humble stilt house is actually the stuff of architectural dreams; a simple light-filled two-story tropical oasis filled with antique furniture and minimal distractions, built on stilts and surrounded by beautiful gardens. The house has been preserved just as Ho left it in 1969.
Although visitors are unable to enter, you can walk around the exterior and peer in through the open windows and doorways, and admire the simple, stately setting. Continue along the garden path and admire the gardens, before exiting to the nearby One Pillar Pagoda.
HO CHI MINH MUSEUM
Located near the iconic Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Presidential Palace, the Ho Chi Minh Museum is a monumental tribute to the life and legacy of the respected leader.
Designed in a modernist style to represent a lotus flower, the building itself is a must-see in Hanoi.
Inside, the museum is divided into eight chronological sections, from birth through to his crowning years as leader of the new Vietnam, and finally through to his death in 1969. As you’d expect, each section has been curated to reflect different aspects of Ho Chi Minh's life and the global influences that shaped his philosophical and political ideologies and features memorabilia, such as photographs, letters, and even personal belongings, to frame his life.
We appreciated the museum’s somewhat nuanced representation of the complex and controversial aspects of Uncle Ho’s life - seeing Communism celebrated, especially as a Westerner can sometimes be jarring, but overall we didn’t feel it was a propaganda tool, but rather a balanced museum.
So is this museum for everyone? Probably not, but we’d definitely include it as part of a half-day exploring the Ho Chi Minh complex.
THE DETAILS
Where | Ho Chi Minh Precinct, Ba Dinh Square
Opening Hours | Every day except Monday afternoon, 7:30 am - 11 am, 1:30 pm - 4 pm in the Summer, 8 am - 11 am, 1:30 pm - 4 pm in the Winter
Cost | Combined entrance ticket into the Presidential Palace complex, including the grounds and Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House which is 40,000 VND, payable at the gate
Note | Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum is closed on Mondays and Fridays, and for at least 2 months (June 15-August 15) for annual maintenance but you can still take pictures of the Mausoleum and walk around the area
EAT LIKE BOURDAIN IN HANOI
If idolising Anthony Bourdain when it comes to travel and foodie experiences makes us walking cliches, well, so be it. Because we do, and his love affair with Vietnam and Vietnamese food is one of (the very many) reasons we chose to visit the country: to embrace and understand the complexity of its cuisine.
To quote the man himself - "Vietnamese cuisine is a master class in the art of balance and subtlety. It's not just about bombarding the senses; it's about engaging them with a kind of elegance and refinement”. We couldn’t put it better if we tried (and we did, trust us, but no one has a way with words quite like Bourdain did).
The food we sampled in Hanoi, so different from the lighter, fresh offerings found in the south, was astoundingly good. We’ll both never, ever forget the first taste of morning Pho from a nondescript Old Quarter cafe, the smokiness of the warming tapioca broth, the richness of the beef, and the subtle balance of herbs.
As such, one of the best things to do in Hanoi is eat. And eat. And eat. And the best way to do that is by joining a Hanoi street food tour.
Similar to our tour in Ho Chi Minh City, this street food tour stopped by hidden storefronts, holes in the wall, street sellers, and some of the best Banh Mi ever, while delving deeper into the local markets and discovering local delicacies. The tour allowed us to enjoy the rest of our time in Hanoi and Vietnam much more, as we knew what and where to find the best food.
We highly recommend joining a food tour - it was potentially the best thing we did in Hanoi.
But if you’re keen on your own explorations amongst the city’s myriad of markets and vendors, below is what you need to try, and where.
Some of the Northern Vietnamese dishes you should try include:
BÚN CHẢ | A Hanoian specialty, Bún Chả is a delightful combination of grilled pork patties, slices of pork belly, a plate of white rice noodles (bún), and a side of herbs with a dipping sauce. Outrageously simple, and flavourful
CHẢ CÁ | One of Hanoi's famous dishes, Chả Cá Lã Vọng involves seasoned fish, typically snakehead or catfish, grilled or fried with turmeric and dill, served with rice noodles and peanuts
HÀ NỘI LA VONG FRIED FISH (CHẢ CÁ THĂNG LONG) | Similar to Chả Cá but is specifically known for its place of origin, Thang Long (old name of Hanoi), featuring fish marinated in turmeric and galangal, then fried and served with dill, coriander, peanuts, and dipping sauces
PHỞ | The most iconic, Phở is a fragrant beef or chicken noodle soup with a clear broth seasoned with various spices, including star anise and cinnamon, usually eaten for breakfast
BÁNH CUỐN | Our favourite breakfast option, these are delicate rice flour rolls filled with ground pork, mushroom, and shallots, often eaten with a dipping sauce made from a combination of fish sauce, sugar, and lime
CÀ PHÊ TRỨNG (EGG COFFEE) | A unique Hanoian creation, egg coffee is made from robusta coffee, sugar, and egg yolks, creating a rich, creamy concoction that tastes like liquid tiramisu. You’ll die and go to heaven drinking this
XÔI XÉO | A popular street food dish consisting of sticky rice topped with mung bean paste, fried shallots, and sometimes chicken, pork, or sausage
PHỞ CUỐN | Essentially uncut phở noodles rolled with beef and herbs into a tight roll, served with a dipping sauce. It's a fresh, lighter take on the traditional phở
NEM CUA BỂ (CRAB SPRING ROLLS) | Spring rolls filled with crab meat, pork, mushrooms, and vermicelli noodles, then fried to golden perfection.
BÚN RIÊU CUA| A tomato-based soup made with crab and rice vermicelli, often enriched with tofu, water spinach, and fresh herbs.
Here are some of the restaurants we suggest trying during your visit:
PHỞ XÀO PHÚ MỸ | Non-descript and affordable street side cafe home to the aforementioned tapioca-based Pho, this was the best noodle soup we had in Vietnam (veg options available, too). Or maybe ever. Nom
PHỞ GIA TRUYỀN BÁT ĐÀN | Basic, shop house located in the Old Quarter hiding some of the best Pho in Hanoi. Included in the Michelin guide, so you know it’s good, expect a long wait though, it’s popular here
MIẾN LƯƠN CHÂN CẦM | A little restaurant that spills onto the streets of the old town, Miến Lươn Chân Cầm is famous for its stir-fried vermicelli with fried eel. It was absolutely packed with locals when we visited (always a good sign)
BANCÔNG CAFE & RESTAURANT | One of Hanoi’s most popular restaurants for tourists, this bougainvillea-covered hotspot in the Old Quarter serves a mix of Vietnamese and international delights. It’s a great place to start your exploration of Vietnamese cuisine - just remember to snag a seat on the balcony
HONG HOAI'S RESTAURANT | Another wildly popular, tourist-friendly Vietnamese restaurant in the centre of town. Serves all the favourites, including bun cha, which was a favourite meal here. A large vegetarian and vegan selection, too
BANH MY MAMA | We have one rule for banh mi - the baguette must be crunchy. And the baguette at Banh My Mama is perfectly crunchy, and the ingredients are fresh and delicious. One of the better banh mi we had in Hanoi - a solid 8/10
BANH MI 25 | Popular, tourist-friendly Banh Mi store in the Old Quarter with a broad selection of traditional and modern fillings. A good starting point for your first sandwich
PIZZA 4P’s | Pizza? In Vietnam? Surprising, yes, but Pizza 4P’s is honestly one of the best pizzas we’ve ever tried - so good we had it three times during our time in Hanoi. The menu, including the pizzas, are a mix of traditional and Asian-influenced, which result in a wonderful mix of flavours. Don’t sleep on the 4 mushroom pizza
MAISON MAROU | Famed for its single-origin chocolate production, Maison Marou also serves up the best sweet treats in the city. Stop by for Paris Brest or tiramisu, and stock up on chocolate blocks for family at home
DREAMERS AND SEEKERS | If you’re looking for a brilliant western-style brunch, Dreamers and Seekers is the best in town. We recommend the chilli scrambled eggs and the miso-honey mushrooms. In addition, they have the best-salted coffee/chocolate in Hanoi… absolutely delicious
BOOK | This incredible 7-stop foodie tour of Hanoi
STROLL THE IMPERIAL CITADEL OF THANG LONG
A living, breathing part of Vietnamese history, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long has borne witness to the ebb and flow of powerful empires.
There’s quite a lot to unpack for a visit here. Firstly, it’s not just a citadel, but rather an archaeological site of UNESCO World Heritage significance. Secondly, it has been the centre of regional political power for 13 centuries. And finally, it houses recent colonial buildings that served as the Communist Party’s base during the Vietnam.
All of this sounds pretty cool, right? Well, it is, but overall we found the site pretty underwhelming.
The original fortress was built on this site in the 7th century by the Chinese, and although some of these remains are now visible through recent archaeological diggings, the current citadel, constructed in the 11th century by the Ly Viet Dynasty, is mostly what remains standing.
You can walk through and over the imposing main southern gate (Doan Mon), where the second-floor terrace houses a palatial-style pavilion added during the Nguyễn dynasty, and provides some lovely views over the surrounding area. You can explore the historical Hanoi flag tower, but beyond that, there’s very little of the citadel that remains or excites.
Behind the southern gate lies the remains of The Kinh Thien Palace, where King Le Thai To ascended to the throne in 1428, as well as the rather beautiful Lady’s Pavilion (Hau Lau) and the imposing North Gate (Bac Mon). All are interesting to look at, but again, there’s very little to experience.
The French colonial section of the citadel houses the D67 Revolutionary House, which was the general headquarters of the Vietnam Communist Party during the war against the US. The preserved rooms and bunkers are probably the best part of the complex, as they provide a tangible insight into where strategic plans were formulated in the Vietnam War.
Overall, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long is worth a visit, but we wouldn’t spend too long here - an hour is the max you need, before making your way to the Ho Chi Minh precinct nearby.
THE DETAILS
Where | Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
Opening Hours | 8 am - 5 pm daily
Cost | VND 30,000 per person
MARVEL AT THE ONE PILLAR PAGODA (CHUA MOT COT)
Located next to the Ho Chi Minh Precinct is one of the more important things to do in Hanoi, the historic One Pillar Pagoda.
According to legend, Emperor Lý Thái Tông, who desired an heir, dreamt he met the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, who handed him a baby son as he sat on a lotus flower. Upon welcoming a son into the world, the Emperor constructed the temple in gratitude, designed to resemble a divine lotus, rooted in the earth but reaching for the heavens.
The temple stood for almost 1,000 years until it was razed to the ground by a Vietnamese Lieutenant of the French Army in 1954. Stone by stone, it was slowly rebuilt in the place you find it today.
Small in stature but ingenious in design, especially considering its construction date, it’s a revered symbol for Vietnamese people. There are steps leading up to the pagoda which you can walk up and leave an offering (for a fee), which is a common practice amongst locals and tourists, so the line can be long and slow.
Within the site is this small yet stunning Dien Huu Temple, which can be entered via a door next to the pagoda. Unless you’re visiting the broader Ho Chi Minh complex nearby, we wouldn’t go out of our way to visit, but it’s still a beautiful historical attraction in the heart of town.
THE DETAILS
Where | Ho Chi Minh Precinct, Ba Dinh Square
Opening Hours | Daily, 7 am - 6 pm
Cost | Free
BOOK | Visit as part of this exceptional Hanoi attractions half-day tour
EXPERIENCE HANOI’S FAMOUS TRAIN STREET
A warning siren sounds and a buzz of excited energy sweeps along the narrow street below; residents swiftly fold up chairs and chase children and pets inside, cafe owners race to hold over eager snap-happy tourists back behind a marked safety line, and those few stragglers still lingering make a scurrying beeline for the closest coffee shop refuge.
Why?
This isn’t just any bustling alley, but Hanoi’s famed ‘train street’; a narrow stretch of working railway where passing trains thunder a path between homes and cafes with mere inches to spare.
In a matter of minutes, one will sound its horn and sweep through the street to great excitement and cheers, just inches from our faces on our safe balcony vantage point, before disappearing from view and prompting the streets back into the scenes of everyday life as though nothing ever interrupted their flow.
It’s a dance that happens multiple times a day and defies all conventions for many travellers, undoubtedly what has contributed to its popularity as a tourist attraction. Once a simple residential area, it didn’t take long for enterprising locals to capitalise on the booming tourist interest and transform the street front into a jumble of cafes and storefronts enticing curious foreigners. When the street closed to tourists in 2019 amid safety fears, it was the cafe operators who petitioned for its reopening, and who are now responsible (and liable) for managing traveller safety.
Despite many a rumour online, Hanoi’s train street is open for tourists to visit today (as of 2024 when we visited and wrote this guide), as long as they’re all seated at a cafe and under the care of proprietors.
There are a few sections of railway you can visit; we opted for the Old Quarter section but there is also the Le Duan section. We recommend arriving at least a half hour before the train’s scheduled arrival and grabbing a seat (we sat at Cafe Waittrans 74), a delicious coconut coffee or steaming pho soup and enjoying one of the more fun and memorable spectacles of your trip.
THE DETAILS
Where | Cafe Waittrans 74 (Old Quarter section), or map to Ng 224 Le Duan for the southern section
TRAIN TIMES | At the time of writing (2024) the train timetable is as follows - although be aware that this is subject to frequent changes:
Mon - Fri | 8:45-9:15, 11:45, 15:20, 21:15, 22:09
Sat & Sun | 08:45 - 9:15, 11:45, 15:20, 17:45-18:15, 21:15 - 22:09
WALK HOAN KIEM LAKE & VISIT NGOC SON TEMPLE
Hoan Kiem Lake feels like the heart of Hanoi, a meeting place where locals and tourists gather to enjoy the calm waters, exercise or take respite from the frenetic energy of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
Hoan Kiem translates to "Lake of the Returned Sword”, alluding to a mythical blade used by Emperor Le Loi to drive out invading Chinese forces and liberate Vietnam in 1428. As with all lore, there’s a bit of imagination that exists, but it affirms the deep love Hanoians have for their favourite lake.
It’s a place you’ll probably end up spending a lot of time.
Not only is it beautiful, but it provides an enjoyable escape from the Old Quarter, which you’ll absolutely crave from time to time. On weekends, it’s a great place to spend an afternoon, trying local street food, and watching locals go about their business. That, and many attractions exist alongside it, including the French Quarter, the famed water puppet theatre, and the peaceful island that houses Ngoc Son Temple, which itself is a must-visit Hanoi attraction.
Connected to the mainland by its famed red bridge (Cau The Huc), Ngoc Son Temple is one of the most popular and accessible in the city, and should be on any first-timer’s itinerary to the city.
Dedicated to several Vietnamese national heroes, the temple is built in typical Vietnamese style, all scarlet doors, terracotta roofs, upswept eaves and intricate carvings, and inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. Expect colourful offerings and the ever-present smell of incense.
Busiest in the afternoon, we suggest arriving as early as possible to enjoy the temple at its calmest. Tickets must be purchased prior to crossing the lake at the ticket booth just off P. Đinh Tiên Hoàng road.
THE DETAILS
Where | Ngoc Son Temple
Opening Hours | Daily, 8 am - 6 pm
Cost | VND 30,000 per person
STEP INSIDE ST. JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL
A slice of Gothic Europe in the midst of the scooter-filled, pho-scented streets of Vietnam's capital, it’s hard to describe St. Joseph’s Cathedral (Nhà Thờ Lớn Hà Nội). Its weather-beaten façade is reminiscent of Notre Dame, but also reminiscent of precisely zero cathedrals we’ve seen in our lives.
It’s minimal, save for its spires and stained glass windows, yet stands on one of the busiest squares in the old quarter. It’s this juxtaposition that makes it one of our favourite buildings in the city, maybe even in Vietnam, and an essential place to see in Hanoi.
Constructed shortly after France conquered Hanoi in 1886, the neo-Gothic cathedral serves Vietnam’s catholic community. Mimicking the design of Paris's Notre Dame, the Cathedral features two towering bell towers and a stunning large rose window on its façade.
Inside, the cathedral has an incredible array of stained glass windows, which stand out against the fairly dark interior, especially on a sunny day. The vaulted ceilings create a sense of grandeur and the altar, flanked by candles and iconography, stands as the counterpoint of the cathedral.
The area surrounding the church is probably our favourite in the city, a cosmopolitan melting pot filled with breweries, cafes, and street eats, so do your best to include a visit to your church as part of your wanderings through the Old Quarter and beyond.
THE DETAILS
Where | St. Joseph’s Cathedral
Opening Hours | Daily, 5 am - 8 pm
Cost | Free, although donations are welcomed
THE TEMPLE OF LITERATURE
The quiet calm and well-preserved Vietnamese architecture made The Temple of Literature our favourite attraction in Hanoi (book a tour here).
Spread across a large, manicured site in the leafy centre of town, The Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) was established in 1070 to honour and teach the learnings of Chinese philosopher Confucius and the pursuit of knowledge. Set out across five courtyards, it’s on these very grounds that generations of Vietnam’s brightest minds sought enlightenment and wisdom. In fact, the Temple of Literature is so significant that it is enshrined on the Vietnamese 100,000 Dong banknote.
The complex features an array of traditional Vietnamese architecture, including halls, ponds and manicured gardens, and the stunning details and muted colours were breathtaking.
Entry is through a two-tiered main gate, which itself is wildly impressive, a grand portico filled with three doorways and stylised reliefs on each side. Once through, the lush gardens spread out in front of you, with a central pathway taking you through pavilions and archways and the entire complex.
The highlight was the second courtyard - Khue Van Cac, or Pavilion of the Constellation of Literature. A two-storied structure symbolising the temple's dedication to culture and learning, it features a four-square roof and round windows that, against the backdrop of the deep-green trees and worn stone, is absolutely beautiful. It also features the famed stelae, large slabs erected to record the names and achievements of exceptional scholars - they sit atop turtle statues so are as unique as they are intriguing.
The Đại Thành Sanctuary, where Confucius and his four closest disciples Yanhui, Zengshen, Zisi, and Mencius are worshipped, is another highlight. Scarlet doors bathe the sanctuary in sunlight, where burning incense swirls across 10 altars honouring philosophers, creating a serene environment to explore.
Given its popularity, especially amongst Vietnamese students hoping for good luck, and posing for graduation photos, the Temple gets busy. As always, if you can arrive early, you’ll enjoy a better experience to explore the complex.
THE DETAILS
Where | The Temple of Literature
Opening Hours | Daily, 8 am - 5 pm
Cost | 70,000 VND per adult, 35,000 VND for students
BOOK | Visit the Temple of Literature as part of this highly-rated tour
ENJOY HANOI’S BEST MUSEUMS
Much like Saigon, Hanoi is home to an interesting array of museums that are worth your time, especially if you have more than three days in the city, or are keen to learn more about Vietnamese history, culture and art.
VIETNAM MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY
If you’re a culture vulture looking to understand the depth of Vietnamese culture and history, make your way to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology (40,000 VND/person - map).
Featuring extensive displays of artefacts, traditional houses, and daily life exhibitions, the museum offers a deep dive into the myriad ways of life, beliefs, and traditions that coexist in this nation. From the intricate textiles of the Hmong to the stilt houses of the Tay, each exhibit provides a snapshot into the lives of the people who shape Vietnam's culture.
It was a wonderful way to get a deeper understanding of the nation, we had no idea there were 54 officially recognised ethnic groups that makeup Vietnam's soul, while a lot of the cultural foibles we’d observed throughout our trip made so much more sense - like the iconic conical hats and the importance of rice.
While the museum is a little way out of the Old Quarter, it’s an affordable Grab ride, so we highly suggest making an effort.
VIETNAM FINE ARTS MUSEUM
Located next to the Temple of Literature, the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum (40,000 VND/person - map) houses a collection that takes you through Vietnam's artistic evolution, showcasing traditional silk paintings, intricate lacquer works, contemporary collections, and powerful depictions of the country's struggle for independence.
There are several must-sees within the museum, which include the lacquered representation of Bodhisattva Avalokisteshvara and Queen Trịnh Thị Ngọc Trúc, the array of wartime paintings by Nguyễn Sáng, and the incredible Uncle Ho in the Viet Bac War Zone.
The biggest takeaway from our visit to the museum was the complexity and depth of Vietnamese fine art - often, European art is the most revered globally, but a lot of the paintings we enjoyed, such as Little Sister Thuy by Trần Văn Cẩn, would hold up in the Louvre or Musée d’Orsay.
If you’re a lover of art, don’t miss visiting.
HOA LO PRISON RELIC MUSEUM
Built by the French colonial authorities to detain Vietnamese political prisoners fighting for independence, Hoa Lo Prison (map) was then repurposed to detain, and in many cases, torture American POWs, who rather ironically named it the “Hanoi Hilton”.
Now, just the facade and a small museum remain, providing an in-depth and thought-provoking insight into the prison's history, from its origins as a tool of colonial oppression to its role during the Vietnam War.
Expect to see a pretty harrowing collection of artefacts, including original prison cells, torture instruments, and personal belongings of the inmates. The displays are accompanied by photographs and documents, providing an insight into the conditions prisoners faced, and the brutal methods of interrogation and punishment employed by the jailers.
THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE
We’re conflicted about including the Water Puppet Show on our list of the best things to do in Hanoi, mostly because it’s not something that really interests us.
While the show is short and engaging to a point, we’d much prefer to be camera in hand, exploring deep into the Old Quarter’s market streets than sitting watching a puppet show.
But, it is a 1,000-year tradition from the northern parts of the country (learn more here), and we’re aware that some readers might enjoy this curious ancient art form, so we’ve chosen to include it.
Water puppetry, or Múa rối nước, dates back to the 11th century, originating in the villages of the Red River Delta, where farmers became puppeteers, animating the stories of their land through figures that danced on water.
Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre carries this tradition forward, its stage a pool of water, its actors intricately carved wooden puppets guided by the unseen hands of skilled puppeteers behind a bamboo curtain. While the storyline is tough to follow, you can enjoy the puppeteer’s skills, while the folk music is suitably fun.
As we said, we wouldn’t go out of our way to watch the show, but if you’ve got a spare hour or two in town, and wish to see this ancient skill in the flesh, book a ticket here.
THE DETAILS
Where | Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
Opening Hours | Starting at 3:30 pm - 5 pm - 6:30 pm - 8 pm - 9:15 pm daily, and Sunday at 9:30 am
Cost | 150,000 VND - The show is very popular, so we suggest booking well in advance
BOOK | Beat the crowds with skip-the-line access
HEAD TO TA HIEN CORNER & DRINK BIA HOI BEER
Hanoi is home to the cheapest beer in the world, Bia Hoi, and a night spent on the little red stools, sipping this crisp, cheap brew is a rite of passage in Hanoi.
Bia Hoi is the country’s most popular beer (learn more about it here), a fresh draft lager brewed daily, matured briefly, and delivered to the aforementioned cheap and cheerful beer houses via motorbike every day. While the beer itself is a light and easily drinkable reprieve from the heat of the day (especially considering it costs less than 50 cents), it’s the social ritual that has sprung up around this glass of amber liquid that is just as worthy of savouring.
You’ll find Bia Hoi throughout Vietnam, but Hanoi is considered to be the heartland of this drinking tradition - with the Old Quarter its pulse.
The ultimate Bia Hoi experience, head to Ta Hien Corner, find yourself a bar and plonk yourself on a stool at one of the plastic tables, shoulder to shoulder with locals and tourists alike, and enjoy the communal and lively atmosphere found in the clinking glasses and hum of happy chatter.
Best washed down with some street food snacks, of course!
SAMPLE HANOI’S FAMOUS EGG COFFEE & ENJOY THE MANY COFFEE HOUSES
After spending almost a month in the country, the hill on which we will now die is that Vietnam has one of the best, most unique - and most criminally underrated - coffee and coffeehouse cultures in the world.
First introduced by the French in the 19th century and most commonly brewed using the phin single filter cup, the coffee here is served hairs-on-your-chest strong and sweet. While all variations can be found across the country, in the south, it’ll likely arrive at your table in a tall glass, either black or thick with condensed milk and ice (cà phê sữa da). In central Vietnam, variations of salted coffee (cà phê muối, invented in Hue) and crushed coconut coffee (cà phê dừa, especially in Hoi An) are the specialty.
Hanoi and the North’s answer? The sweet, thick egg coffee (cà phê trứng).
Now before you turn your nose up and clicking away from this page in disgust, we implore you to give this humble and admittedly weird-sounding cup of joe a chance. Created by Nguyen Van Giang in the 1940s when milk scarcity threatened good coffee everywhere, egg yolk is whipped with condensed milk into a rich, creamy froth poured on top of black coffee. The result is something akin to pouring a thick custard into your coffee; not necessarily eggy, but full-bodied in thickness and sweetness nonetheless.
Cafe Giang still serves the original recipe, although you’ll find it on the menu at almost every coffee shop across the city here.
It’s not just what’s in your cup that’s exciting to delve into here though; an incredibly cool and creative cafe culture has sprung up all around Hanoi and beyond, with cosy coffee houses hidden in crumbling colonial relics, quirky third-wave hangouts and hole in the wall espresso spots now lining every street in the country.
In Hanoi, our favourites were:
LOADING T CAFE
Located in a grand old French colonial mansion in the city’s Old Quarter, Loading T is one of our favourite cafes of all time.
With its floor-to-ceiling colonial windows and frescoed ceilings, mismatched plump armchairs, and quirky collection of vintage furniture, books, and knick-knacks framed by greenery, it definitely beckons you to sit a while and lose track of time.
This is also where we sampled the famous Hanoian egg coffee; theirs is served with a cinnamon kick and is best enjoyed iced on a hot day.
DREAMERS AND SEEKERS
A cosy corner cafe in a backstreet right near St Joseph’s, Dreamers and Seekers served an incredibly delicious coconut coffee, and they’re also responsible for ruining hot chocolate forever for Mark (our resident non-coffee drinker). Served thick and chocolatey with salted cream, this was the stuff of dreams for him, and you best believe we went back multiple times just for him to indulge!
As an aside, Dreamers and Seekers also call itself a Melbourne-style brunch spot, and as two Melburnians who enjoy probably more than their fair share of good brunch, we’d heartily agree: the miso mushrooms with poached eggs were outrageously delish, and the avocado smash with goats cheese was also scoffed down in about two seconds flat.
CONG CAPHE
If you’ve read our guide to Ho Chi Minh City, you already know that we’re big fans of Cong Ca Phe - a rare recommendation for a coffee chain on this site. One of the country’s best success stories, each uniquely decorated cafe brings Vietnam’s communist era to life in a nostalgic way; a tribute to its founder’s childhood memories of growing up in the subsidy era. Expect pokey, dimly lit interiors, retro paraphernalia and antiques, and staff wearing army greens - and a delicious coconut coffee, for which they’re famous!
Our favourite location was the one overlooking St Joseph’s Cathedral; a perfect spot for people watching on the street below.
Other coffee spots we recommend in the city are:
CAFE DINH | Cafe Dinh is owned by the eldest daughter of Hà Nội’s egg coffee inventor, expect
THE NOTE COFFEE | A little gimmicky due to its insta-fame, but a fun, colourful spot known for its post-it note-covered walls, great for a coffee and some people watching over Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB | Housed in a 1920s French colonial villa in the historic quarter of Hanoi, Hanoi Social Club is where you’ll find the cool kids of Hanoi and beyond enjoying brunch in the hipster-style cafe. They also employ staff from the KOTO Social Enterprise that trains kids from disadvantaged backgrounds in hospitality, a big win in our eyes!
PHUNG HANG MURAL STREET
We’re big fans of street art, and it’s something we seek out on travels wherever possible. However, it’s an artistic expression you tend to be less likely to see in a communist country, which is why the Phung Hang mural street is such a wonderful exception.
Located off the bustling streets of the Old Quarter, the blank stone archways of a railway line are put to good use with a street-art project between Vietnamese and Korean artists transforming a once-ordinary street into a canvas of whimsical Trompe-l'œil murals.
The project features over 20 murals painted by both Vietnamese and Korean artists, with artworks from depictions of Hanoi’s past, such as scenes of old merchants, traditional Vietnamese games, and historical events, as well as more abstract and contemporary interpretations of Vietnamese folklore and heritage.
The art itself is exceptional, using optical illusions to bring the scenes to life. Our two favourites were the Streets of Flowers, which provided a vivid representation of a scene we’d enjoyed just a few streets away, and the wonderfully simple Nostalgic Water Tap, a poignant celebration of the public water taps that dotted the city prior to modern piping and an insight to more communal living times.
In addition, the street is covered with hanging lanterns, which look incredible at night. Coupled with the coffee + street food options on the street, it’s a great place to stop after a visit to Train Street, which is a few blocks away.
THE DETAILS
Where | Phung Hang Mural Street, Hanoi Old Quarter
TAKE A DAY TRIP FROM HANOI
HA LONG BAY
Now, we need to preface this suggestion with a caveat: if you have more than one day to visit Ha Long Bay, you should absolutely allocate for a multi-day trip (we did this 1-night / 2-day cruise and loved it).
UNESCO World Heritage protected and famous for its limestone mountains and caves, pristine beauty, and peaceful fishing villages, it’s a truly stunning part of the world. If you want to enjoy it at a more relaxed pace, you definitely need longer than a day trip.
However, we’re also acutely aware that the luxury of time isn’t always something you have on your travels, so if you’re looking to visit Ha Long Bay in the most efficient way possible, a one-day trip is also possible from Hanoi.
It’s a long day, with a pick up in the Old Quarter around 8 am, an hour’s drive to the port, then a busy day of cruising and water activities (like kayaking and visiting the Sung Sot and Luon Caves, a sunset party onboard, and then the hour-long journey back to Hanoi arriving back around 9 pm at night - but in our view, it’s worth it to be able to see Ha Long in all her beauty on a time budget.
BOOK | The one-night / two-day cruise we did, or we recommend this tour for a day trip to Ha Long Bay
NINH BINH
Again, if you have more days to throw at a trip to Ninh Binh, Vietnam’s incredible limestone karst mountains (and the perfect spot for some epic hiking opportunities!), we’d definitely recommend doing so, but it is possible to get a taste of the mountains in a single day trip.
This full day tour to Ninh Binh departs from Hanoi in the morning for the ancient imperial city of Hoa Lu, where you’ll explore Vietnam’s history and ancient temples, before making a beeline for Tam Coc.
Here, you’ll ride a wooden Sampan boat to explore the caves nearby, cycle through some of the villages, enjoy a traditional Vietnamese lunch and then head for the Mua Cave and the 500 steps up for the iconic vistas over Tam Coc, the countryside and Ngo Dong River before returning back to Hà Nội on the same day.
The tour includes an air-conditioned bus, lunch and water, a traditional hat, bike rental and entry fees, and your guide for the day.
HANOI TRAVEL INFORMATION & FAQS
HOW LONG SHOULD YOU SPEND IN HANOI?
Like most city’s around the world, you could spend 3 days in Hanoi and see just about every major attraction, enjoy a few nice meals, and leave feeling like you’ve ‘done’ the city.
But, as advocates of a slower, deeper travel experience, we feel like 3-days is limiting. Firstly, you’ll be rushed, see only the main attractions, and presumably miss out on the pure joy of spending a very lazy afternoon in a breezy Hanoi cafe sipping coffee and reading a book.
If you have the time, we suggest staying for 5 days or so. This will allow you to see all of Hanoi’s major attractions, but at a pace that allows you to truly immerse yourself in the city and discover its many quirks.
Additionally, much like Ho Chi Minh City in the south, Hanoi is a gateway to many of Vietnam’s greatest natural attractions, including Ha Long Bay, Sa Pa and the mountains, and Ninh Binh, so it can also act as a great base for further exploration. If you can find an affordable apartment, we suggest hiring for an extended period (two weeks) and using it as a base for day/overnight trips.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT HANOI?
Many visitors to Vietnam make the mistake of thinking the country is like Thailand, Cambodia or Malaysia - always hot, just with varying levels depending on the monsoon. But they’d be wrong.
Vietnam isn’t a huge country, but it’s long, and spans several climatic regions, so while it might be warm in Ho Chi Minh City in January, it’s going to be cold in Hanoi.
Therefore, we feel it’s super important to understand when the best time is to visit Hanoi.
Straight up, stay away over Winter, between January - March. We visited in late February and it was mostly grey, cold, and extremely humid. It meant some pretty dank days in town, and a pretty underwhelming experience in Ha Long Bay (that being said, the misty limestone peaks were interesting to see).
If you wish for warm weather (such as Aussies trying to escape winter), Summer, from May-August, is the best time to visit. Expect hot and humid weather and a more SE Asian weather experience. Ha Long Bay will look imperious, but Hanoi’s old town will be a little uncomfortable. That’ll just mean more beer or iced coffee, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
In our opinion though, the best time to visit Hanoi is during Autumn (September to November). The temperatures are still moderate, but the humidity is less and the skies clear. Later in the season, the trees begin to change colour, which makes the tree-lined boulevards a sight to see.
One final addition: we would avoid visiting during Tet, the Vietnamese New Year (normally in February), especially as first-time visitors. We did so, and while it was an interesting cultural experience, it caused shutdowns, disruptions, and price surges to our travel itinerary. Expect crowds in all the major sightseeing spots too, as locals gather for photoshoots and to generally enjoy the best of their cities - which can make for an even more overwhelming experience.
HOW TO GET AROUND HANOI
We used Grab almost every single day in Vietnam, and recommend it for every traveller there.
Both cars and scooters (and food, incidentally) can be booked via the app (you will need a local sim), and we found the interface great, the prices extremely affordable, the drivers friendly, and the whole experience generally very easy and safe.
Because Grab is so easy to use, we actually recommend avoiding traditional taxis here, as they are known for price-gouging unsuspecting tourists.
Unfortunately, the vast majority of Hanoi’s metro is still being constructed, so misses the main tourist hubs (find out more here)
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN VIETNAM
If you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the current global situation has taught many people, things can go wrong anywhere in the world - and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.
Here are our recommendations, based on 8+ years of full-time travel:
FOR TRAVELLERS | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out-of-pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.
FOR DIGITAL NOMADS | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
CAR INSURANCE | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF VIETNAM
VIETNAM | The perfect two-week Vietnam itinerary for first-timers
HANOI | The best things to do in Hanoi, A curated guide to Hanoi Old Quarter, How to visit the Temple of Literature
HO CHI MINH CITY | The best things to do in Ho Chi Minh City, 15+ Essential Saigon Travel Tips, How to visit Tan Dinh Church (Saigon’s Pink Church), Where to eat and drink in Ho Chi Minh City, How to get from Saigon Airport to the city centre
HOI AN | The best things to do in Hoi An, 15+ Essential Hoi An Travel Tips, How to visit My Son Sanctuary, How to get from Danang Airport to Hoi An, A guide to the Hoi An Old Town Ticket, The best day trips from Hoi An
MEKONG DELTA | The best things to do in the Mekong Delta
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and your friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF VIETNAM WITH OUR GUIDES
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