How to Spend a Wonderful Day in Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Discover the chaotic capital of Vietnam with our guide to Hanoi's Old Quarter. From hidden cafes and historic temples to colourful street markets, find out where to eat, stay, and play in Hanoi’s most dynamic district.
Thirty-six streets make up Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem.
A mere thirty-six, and yet, within those thirty-six streets, layers of history, culture and life exist, and many of the city’s best attractions.
To slowly wander the district’s streets is to immerse yourself in the centuries of history reflected all around you - as well as a guaranteed way to fall in love with Hanoi.
Every nook and cranny is filled with street vendors selling just about anything - fruits, cooking utensils, textiles, silver. The footpaths are crammed with street stalls and parked motorbikes, and invariably you’ll find yourself walking on the narrow roads, dodging honking scooters, cyclos and people.
The weathered colonial buildings, towering trees, and constant noise also make it feel a little claustrophobic at times. Indeed, there were times when we needed to escape, the intensity was just too much to handle.
But that cacophonic overwhelm is also part of what makes Hanoi’s Old Quarter an exciting place to spend time in.
From the hidden cafes housed in colonial villas to historic temples hidden down alleyways, from colourful street food markets to the best pho in town, this Hanoi Old Quarter guide provides our intel on where to eat, stay and play within the city’s most popular district.
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HANOI OLD QUARTER OVERVIEW
TOP THINGS TO SEE | Walk the historic quarter, Hoan Kien Lake & Ngoc Son Temple, Train Street
WHERE TO EAT | Phở Gia Truyền Bát Đàn, Bancông Cafe & Restaurant, Hong Hoai's Restaurant, Pizza 4 P’s
WHERE TO STAY | Capella Hanoi, La Siesta Premium Hang Be & Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel
BEST TOURS | Hanoi street food tour, City highlights walking tour
BEST TIME TO VISIT | September to November
CURRENCY| Vietnamese Dong
THE HISTORY OF HANOI’S OLD QUARTER | THE 36 GUILD STREETS
Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and its rabbit-warren streets, laneways, and narrow houses make little sense unless you understand its history beforehand.
So here’s a little history lesson involving hundreds of years, many empires and the streets you find today.
The origins of this quarter can be traced back to the 11th century when King Ly Thai To moved the capital to this area, transforming it into a bustling centre of trade. The city of Hanoi sits on the right bank of the Red River, so named for its reddish-brown colour, but the river and its tributaries once ran through the city centre, down canals and winding waterways, connecting lakes such as Hoan Kiem, to the river.
Over time, the canals were widened to allow cargo boats better access to the city, and early trade was conducted through these methods.
Later, upon colonisation, the French filled in the canals, creating a network of winding streets known as the 'thirty-six handicraft streets', dedicated to one specific guild or trade group.
When you visit the Old Quarter you’ll notice that most streets start with the word 'Hang', which doesn't actually mean 'street', but rather 'merchandise', as each is usually named after the commodity that was once sold there. For example, there's Hang Bong (Rue du Coton), which sells cotton; Hang Bac (Rue des Changeurs), selling silver; Hang Duong (Rue du Sucre), selling sugar; and Hang Non (Rue des Chapeaux), selling hats.
This setup allowed artisans to control the quality and reputation of their craft, and still today, many streets continue to reflect their craft origins.
Some notable streets include:
Hang Bong | Known for cotton products and tailoring services
Hang Ma | Bright with colourful paper offerings, especially vibrant during festivals
Hang Dao | Famous for its silk and women’s accessories
Hang Bac | A street historically known for silver crafting and jewellery
Hang Gai | The go-to street for high-quality silk and textiles
The area underwent large-scale urbanisation upon colonisation, which is reflected in the French colonial architecture dotted throughout the area, as well as merchant houses, Buddhist and Daoist temples, and even historic city gates.
However, one of the curious foibles of the old quarter is narrow buildings, and there’s a reason for this - properties were taxed based on their street frontage - the wider the building, the larger the tax, hence, narrow buildings which run deep.
As a result, as well as admiring the street level, always look up.
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN HANOI OLD QUARTER
GET LOST
Any long-time reader of The Common Wanderer will know that one of our favourite things to do in any city is to simply get lost, and discover the city through your own wanderings.
And we reiterate that point in Hanoi’s Old Quarter - to slowly wander the district’s streets today is to immerse yourself in the centuries of history reflected all around you - as well as a guaranteed way to fall in love with Hanoi.
Life in the Old Quarter is chaotic - the streets hum with life; every nook and cranny is filled with street vendors selling just about anything - fruits, cooking utensils, textiles, silver.
The footpaths are crammed with street stalls and parked motorbikes, and invariably you’ll find yourself walking on the narrow roads, dodging honking scooters, cyclos and people.
The weathered colonial buildings, towering trees, and constant noise also make it feel a little claustrophobic at times.
But that cacophonic overwhelm is also part of what makes exploring Hanoi’s Old Quarter an exciting place to explore.
So where should you start?
Choose a street, any street, and start walking. The Old Quarter loosely starts at Hoan Kiem Lake and encompasses the streets and alleyways towards Long Bien. Float through and follow your nose. Stop by a street food vendor for a snack, head deep into the markets and witness the clamour of commerce, spot ancient pagodas, the remains of city walls and colonial architectural delights, and end the day on a blue stool sipping Bia Hoi by the dozen.
Alternatively, join a city walking tour and let a guide take you on the journey.
VISIT DONG XUAN MARKETS, AND SURROUNDING STREETS
Commerce in the Old Quarter, much like the rest of Vietnam, is dominated by markets and street vendors, and in the heart of it all is Dong Xuan Market (Cho Dong Xuan).
Established in 1889 during the French colonial rule, this iconic three-story French Colonial/Soviet-style building has evolved into a bustling centre of commerce - and for us, the market hall and its surrounds are the perfect places to understand this bustling city and its people.
Covering an area of 6,500 square meters, you can find just about anything here, from fresh produce and seafood (located on the first floor) to handicrafts, shoes, textiles, and home decor.
The surrounding streets also house market stalls and food vendors, and we actually found strolling these streets more exciting (and more photogenic), as you can’t match the chaos and colour and street markets.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dong Xuan Market
Opening Hours | 6:00 am to 7:00 pm
Wanderer Tips | Arrive early to see the market at its most vibrant and colourful - however avoid visiting during Tet when it’s wayyyy too busy
EXPERIENCE HANOI’S FAMOUS TRAIN STREET
A narrow stretch of working railway where passing trains thunder a path between homes and cafes with mere inches to spare, Hanoi Train Street is one of those new-age tourism attractions, a symptom of social media fame.
Once a simple residential area, it didn’t take long for enterprising locals to capitalise on the booming tourist interest and transform the street front into a jumble of cafes and storefronts enticing curious foreigners.
When the street closed to tourists in 2019 amid safety fears, it was the cafe operators who petitioned for its reopening, and who are now responsible (and liable) for managing traveller safety.
Despite many a rumour online, Hanoi’s train street is open for tourists to visit today (as of 2024 when we visited and wrote this guide), as long as they’re all seated at a cafe and under the care of proprietors.
There are a few sections of railway you can visit; we opted for the Old Quarter section but there is also the Le Duan section. We recommend arriving at least a half hour before the train’s scheduled arrival and grabbing a seat (we sat at Cafe Waittrans 74), a delicious coconut coffee or steaming pho soup and enjoying one of the more fun and memorable spectacles of your trip.
THE DETAILS
Where | Cafe Waittrans 74 (Old Quarter section), or map to Ng 224 Le Duan for the southern section
TRAIN TIMES | At the time of writing (2024) the train timetable is as follows - although be aware that this is subject to frequent changes:
Mon - Fri | 8:45-9:15, 11:45, 15:20, 21:15, 22:09
Sat & Sun | 08:45 - 9:15, 11:45, 15:20, 17:45-18:15, 21:15 - 22:09
HEAD TO TA HIEN CORNER & DRINK BIA HOI BEER
Hanoi is home to the cheapest beer in the world, Bia Hoi, and a night spent on the little red stools, sipping this crisp, cheap brew is a rite of passage in Hanoi.
Bia Hoi is the country’s most popular beer (learn more about it here), a fresh draft lager brewed daily, matured briefly, and delivered to the aforementioned cheap and cheerful beer houses via motorbike every day. While the beer itself is a light and easily drinkable reprieve from the heat of the day (especially considering it costs less than 50 cents), it’s the social ritual that has sprung up around this glass of amber liquid that is just as worthy of savouring.
You’ll find Bia Hoi throughout Vietnam, but Hanoi is considered to be the heartland of this drinking tradition - with the Old Quarter its pulse.
The ultimate Bia Hoi experience, head to Ta Hien Corner, find yourself a bar and plonk yourself on a stool at one of the plastic tables, shoulder to shoulder with locals and tourists alike, and enjoy the communal and lively atmosphere found in the clinking glasses and hum of happy chatter.
Best washed down with some street food snacks, of course!
WALK HOAN KIEM LAKE & VISIT NGOC SON TEMPLE
Hoan Kiem Lake feels like the heart of Hanoi, a meeting place where locals and tourists gather to enjoy the calm waters, exercise or take respite from the frenetic energy of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
And it’s a place you’ll probably end up spending a lot of time.
Not only is it beautiful, but it provides an enjoyable escape from the Old Quarter, which you’ll absolutely crave from time to time. On weekends, it’s a great place to spend an afternoon, trying local street food, and watching locals go about their business (more on that below).
Connected to the mainland by its famed red bridge (Cau The Huc), Ngoc Son Temple is one of the most popular and accessible in the city, and should be on any first-timer’s itinerary to the city.
Dedicated to several Vietnamese national heroes, the temple is built in typical Vietnamese style, all scarlet doors, terracotta roofs, upswept eaves and intricate carvings, and inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. Expect colourful offerings and the ever-present smell of incense.
Busiest in the afternoon, we suggest arriving as early as possible to enjoy the temple at its calmest. Tickets must be purchased prior to crossing the lake at the ticket booth just off P. Đinh Tiên Hoàng Road.
THE DETAILS
Where | Ngoc Son Temple
Opening Hours | Daily, 8 am - 6 pm
Cost | VND 30,000 per person
SAMPLE HANOI’S FAMOUS EGG COFFEE & ENJOY THE MANY COFFEE HOUSES
Vietnam has one of the best, most unique - and most criminally underrated - coffee and coffeehouse cultures in the world, and after sampling egg coffee (cà phê trứng) in Hanoi, you’ll absolutely agree with us.
Egg coffee was created by Nguyen Van Giang in the 1940s when milk scarcity threatened good coffee everywhere. The answer was to whip egg yolk with condensed milk into a rich, creamy froth that was then poured on top of black coffee. The result is something akin to pouring a thick custard into your coffee; not necessarily eggy, but full-bodied in thickness and sweetness nonetheless.
Now before you turn your nose up and click away from this page in disgust, we implore you to give this humble and admittedly weird-sounding cup of joe a chance.
Cafe Giang still serves the original recipe, although you’ll find it on the menu at almost every coffee shop across the city here.
It’s not just what’s in your cup that’s exciting to delve into here though; an incredibly cool and creative cafe culture has sprung up all around Hanoi and beyond, with cosy coffee houses hidden in crumbling colonial relics, quirky third-wave hangouts and hole in the wall espresso spots now lining every street in the country.
In Hanoi Old Quarter, our favourite coffee houses were:
LOADING T CAFE | Located in a grand old French colonial mansion in the city’s Old Quarter, Loading T is one of our favourite cafes of all time. Their egg coffee is delicious - served with a cinnamon kick and is best enjoyed iced on a hot day.
DREAMERS AND SEEKERS | A cosy corner cafe in a backstreet right near St Joseph’s, Dreamers and Seekers served an incredibly delicious coconut coffee, and they’re also responsible for ruining hot chocolate forever for Mark (our resident non-coffee drinker). Served thick and chocolatey with salted cream, this was the stuff of dreams for him, and you best believe we went back multiple times just for him to indulge!
CONG CAPHE | Cong Ca Phe - a rare recommendation for a coffee chain on this site, is one of the country’s best success stories and they delicious coffee. Our favourite location was the one overlooking St Joseph’s Cathedral; a perfect spot for people watching on the street below.
THE NOTE COFFEE | A little gimmicky due to its insta-fame, but a fun, colourful spot known for its post-it note-covered walls, great for a coffee and some people watching over Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB | Housed in a 1920s French colonial villa in the historic quarter of Hanoi, Hanoi Social Club is where you’ll find the cool kids of Hanoi and beyond enjoying brunch in the hipster-style cafe
CAFE DINH | Cafe Dinh is owned by the eldest daughter of Hà Nội’s egg coffee inventor
STEP INSIDE ST. JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL
A slice of Gothic Europe in the midst of the scooter-filled, pho-scented streets of Vietnam's capital, it’s hard to describe St. Joseph’s Cathedral (Nhà Thờ Lớn Hà Nội). Its weather-beaten façade is reminiscent of Notre Dame, but also reminiscent of precisely zero cathedrals we’ve seen in our lives.
Constructed shortly after France conquered Hanoi in 1886, the neo-Gothic cathedral serves Vietnam’s catholic community. Mimicking the design of Paris's Notre Dame, the Cathedral features two towering bell towers and a stunning large rose window on its façade.
Inside, the cathedral has an incredible array of stained glass windows, which stand out against the fairly dark interior, especially on a sunny day. The vaulted ceilings create a sense of grandeur and the altar, flanked by candles and iconography, stands as the counterpoint of the cathedral.
The area surrounding the church is probably our favourite in the city, a cosmopolitan melting pot filled with breweries, cafes, and street eats, so do your best to include a visit to your church as part of your wanderings through the Old Quarter and beyond.
THE DETAILS
Where | St. Joseph’s Cathedral
Opening Hours | Daily, 5 am - 8 pm
Cost | Free, although donations are welcomed
HANOI NIGHT MARKET
If you wish to get that South East Asian night market fix, Hanoi Night Market is your place.
Stretching from Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square on the northern end of the bustling Hoan Kiem Lake to Dong Xuan Market, this weekend market transforms the area into a pedestrian-only zone, where a myriad of stalls sit under the night sky, and street food vendors cook up delicious treats.
You can find just about anything here, including handicrafts and souvenirs, paintings, clothes and shoes, and jewellery, in addition to live performances and light shows.
But the highlight is the street food vendors, which offer everything from grilled meat to pho. Our favourite was the Gold Coin Cake, a frankly weird, sweet cheese toast-things which were super cheap, but a delicious sweet/savoury treat. Nom. But meat-eaters can’t go past the grilled pork.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square
When | Friday, Saturday, Sunday evenings, 6 pm - 11 pm
THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE
The Water Puppet Show is one of the best things to do in the Old Quarter.
Water puppetry (learn more here), or Múa rối nước, dates back to the 11th century, originating in the villages of the Red River Delta, where farmers became puppeteers, animating the stories of their land through figures that danced on water.
Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre carries this tradition forward, its stage a pool of water, its actors intricately carved wooden puppets guided by the unseen hands of skilled puppeteers behind a bamboo curtain.
While the storyline is tough to follow, you can enjoy the puppeteer’s skills, while the folk music is suitably fun.
If you’ve got a spare hour or two in town, and wish to see this ancient skill in the flesh, book a ticket here.
THE DETAILS
Where | Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
Opening Hours | Starting at 3:30 pm - 5 pm - 6:30 pm - 8 pm - 9:15 pm daily, and Sunday at 9:30 am
Cost | 150,000 VND - The show is very popular, so we suggest booking well in advance
BOOK | Beat the crowds with skip-the-line access
PHUNG HANG MURAL STREET
Located off the bustling streets of the Old Quarter, the blank stone archways of a railway line are put to good use with a street-art project between Vietnamese and Korean artists transforming a once-ordinary street into a canvas of whimsical Trompe-l'œil murals.
The project features over 20 murals painted by both Vietnamese and Korean artists, with artworks from depictions of Hanoi’s past, such as scenes of old merchants, traditional Vietnamese games, and historical events, as well as more abstract and contemporary interpretations of Vietnamese folklore and heritage.
The art itself is exceptional, using optical illusions to bring the scenes to life. Our two favourites were the Streets of Flowers, which provided a vivid representation of a scene we’d enjoyed just a few streets away, and the wonderfully simple Nostalgic Water Tap, a poignant celebration of the public water taps that dotted the city prior to modern piping and an insight to more communal living times.
In addition, the street is covered with hanging lanterns, which look incredible at night. Coupled with the coffee + street food options on the street, it’s a great place to stop after a visit to Train Street, which is a few blocks away.
THE DETAILS
Where | Phung Hang Mural Street, Hanoi Old Quarter
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN HANOI OLD QUARTER
The food we sampled in Hanoi, so different from the lighter, fresh offerings found in the south, was astoundingly good.
We’ll both never, ever forget the first taste of morning Pho from a nondescript Old Quarter cafe, the smokiness of the warming tapioca broth, the richness of the beef, and the subtle balance of herbs.
As such, one of the best things to do in Hanoi is eat. And eat. And eat. And the best way to do that is by joining a Hanoi street food tour.
But if you’re keen on your own explorations amongst the city’s myriad of markets and vendors, below is what you need to try, and where.
PHỞ XÀO PHÚ MỸ | Non-descript and affordable street-side cafe home to the aforementioned tapioca-based Pho, this was the best noodle soup we had in Vietnam (veg options available, too). Or maybe ever. Nom
PHỞ GIA TRUYỀN BÁT ĐÀN | Basic, shop house located in the Old Quarter hiding some of the best Pho in Hanoi. Included in the Michelin guide, so you know it’s good, expect a long wait though, it’s popular here
MIẾN LƯƠN CHÂN CẦM | A little restaurant that spills onto the streets of the old town, Miến Lươn Chân Cầm is famous for its stir-fried vermicelli with fried eel. It was absolutely packed with locals when we visited (always a good sign)
BANCÔNG CAFE & RESTAURANT | One of Hanoi’s most popular restaurants for tourists, this bougainvillea-covered hotspot in the Old Quarter serves a mix of Vietnamese and international delights. It’s a great place to start your exploration of Vietnamese cuisine - just remember to snag a seat on the balcony
HONG HOAI'S RESTAURANT | Another wildly popular, tourist-friendly Vietnamese restaurant in the centre of town. Serves all the favourites, including bun cha, which was a favourite meal here. A large vegetarian and vegan selection, too
BANH MY MAMA | We have one rule for banh mi - the baguette must be crunchy. And the baguette at Banh My Mama is perfectly crunchy, and the ingredients are fresh and delicious. One of the better banh mi we had in Hanoi - a solid 8/10
BANH MI 25 | Popular, tourist-friendly Banh Mi store in the Old Quarter with a broad selection of traditional and modern fillings. A good starting point for your first sandwich
PIZZA 4P’s | Pizza? In Vietnam? Surprising, yes, but Pizza 4P’s is honestly one of the best pizzas we’ve ever tried - so good we had it three times during our time in Hanoi. The menu, including the pizzas, is a mix of traditional and Asian-influenced, which result in a wonderful mix of flavours. Don’t sleep on the 4 mushroom pizza
MAISON MAROU | Famed for its single-origin chocolate production, Maison Marou also serves up the best sweet treats in the city. Stop by for Paris Brest or tiramisu, and stock up on chocolate blocks for family at home
DREAMERS AND SEEKERS | If you’re looking for a brilliant western-style brunch, Dreamers and Seekers is the best in town. We recommend the chilli scrambled eggs and the miso-honey mushrooms. In addition, they have the best salted coffee/chocolate in Hanoi… absolutely delicious
BOOK | This incredible 7-stop foodie tour of Hanoi
WHERE TO STAY IN HANOI OLD QUARTER
We recommend not making the mistake we did when staying in Hà Nội, which was booking an Airbnb well out of the Old Quarter to avoid any potential hustle, bustle or noise (a big consideration when travelling with a toddler!).
While we did have a lovely, quiet, immersive stay in a very local area it did mean we spent a lot of time sitting in Grabs in heavy traffic just to do simple sightseeing… which isn’t always the best fun to do with said toddler, or if you’re really looking to get the most of your time in a destination.
For that reason, we’ve included three recommendations for where to stay in the Old Quarter:
THE CAPELLA HANOI | Combining French colonial and Art Deco styles, the Capella Hanoi is definitely one of the best hotels in Hanoi. In addition to the opulent rooms that exude colonial charm, there’s exquisite dining, a chic spa, and a central location near the Old Quarter
LA SIESTA PREMIUM HANG BE | Located in the heart of the Old Quarter, La Siesta Premium Hang Be has lovely, modern rooms, a rooftop bar with city views (definitely enjoy a sunset cocktail up here), and excellent customer service
OLD QUARTER VIEW HANOI HOSTEL | Located in the heart of the Old Quarter, the affordable and highly-rated Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel offers basic amenities, free Wi-Fi, and complimentary breakfast, making it a great choice for those on a budget
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