Discover Ubud's Stunning Tegalalang Rice Terraces | The Ultimate Guide
Looking to visit one of Bali’s most incredible attractions? This guide to Tegalalang Rice Terraces runs through what to see and do, how to get there, and whether or not Tegalalang is worth visiting in 2023.
There’s really no comparable feeling to wandering through the tiered rice farms of Tegalalang at sunrise.
A faint breeze stirs the grass and rice plants around you; birds and little bugs sing their morning songs. The jungle rears its emerald mane as local farmers bend over their crops, tending to the ambitious stalks. Water sits on the edges of the rice leaves, twinkling in the early daylight.
Tegalalang Rice Terrace is centuries old, making this journey through its layers an ancient one. Although, the changing times have also changed this historical gem tucked into the hills north of Ubud, Bali.
It was added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 2012 for its cultural significance. Tegalalang Rice Terrace features a special water system called “subak.” Water from springs flows into water temples and from there, is distributed through the rice paddies.
This practice dates back to the 11th century and illustrates the Balinese philosophical principle of “Tri Hita Karana.”
Essentially, it means harmony with God, harmony among people, and harmony with the environment.
The rice terraces are the physical manifestation of this belief. Sacred waters, managed by the temples, allow the rice terraces to flourish in harmony with the surrounding environment. The harvest then feeds the people.
The Tegalalang Rice Terraces are beautiful - actually stunningly beautiful in real life. But their magic also lies in what they represent: this perfect balance between the natural world and humans.
It’s something to think about as you take in the majestic sight of the rice terraces.
Love our photos? They were all edited using our India Preset Pack, which you can purchase here!
TEGALALANG RICE TERRACES
SNAPSHOT
WHERE | Ubud, Bali
HOW TO GET THERE | A short scooter ride from Ubud, tour
ENTRANCE FEES | 0 IDR - 10,000 - 15,000 IDR, depending on time of day
WHEN TO VISIT | Sunrise - March/April, September/October
WHERE IS TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE?
Tegalalang Rice Terrace is located in the village of Tegalalang on the island of Bali, Indonesia.
It sits about 10 kilometres (or a 20-minute drive) north of Bali’s cultural heart, Ubud.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO AT TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE
EXPLORE THE RICE TERRACES
It may seem utterly obvious, however, we highly recommend exploring every inch of the terraces.
The mesmerising terraces, which are shaped and layered elegantly into the green hills of Ubud, are a wonderful example of human ingenuity, and simple aesthetic beauty. Like a layered, green cake, the curves and patterns of the terraces seemingly pull you in to explore, and around each corner, another excellent vantage point arrives.
The terraces are well maintained, with stone footpaths fanning out across the myriad of hills and valleys. The best area to explore is the far western corner of the terraces, where the morning sunlight softly serenades the jungle canopy and rice tips.
But if you’re willing to get lost amongst the fields, just follow your nose and explore each and every corner of the area, you won’t be disappointed.
TAKE A SWING
Look, we’re not going to lie - we didn’t do this, and probably would dissuade you from doing it, too. Why? Well, firstly, it’s just a bit lame… and secondly, the popularity of these ghastly swings has led to them propping up in seemingly every corner of the rice terraces, turning it into a proverbial theme park.
That being said, these swings are wildly popular, and the views are absolutely stunning. The most popular, and largest swing complex is Uma Ceking, which also serves as a restaurant selling Indonesian and International cuisine. Expect to pay between 150,000 and 200,000 IDR (more on swing pricing below).
SWIM IN THE TEGALALANG INFINITY POOL
Given the rise of tourism at Tegalalang, it was only a matter of time before an infinity pool was built here. And sure enough, you can now laze by the pool with this most incredible backdrop.
This objectionable, if not stunning, pool is built into the side of the terraces, and was seemingly created for the Instagram crowd that descends on Bali’s most popular attractions. That being said, the pool, operated by Tis Cafe, is somewhat tasteful, and blends into the surroundings fairly well, making it a place where you could easily spend a few hours post-sunrise explorations.
There’s a requirement to spend IDR 250k for access, which over the course of a few hours, is quite reasonable. The food’s not the best, but it’s the view that makes a visit worthwhile.
TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE ESSENTIALS
TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE ENTRANCE FEE
The cost to enter Tegalalang Rice Terrace varies depending on where you enter and the time of day.
If you arrive early in the morning or late in the evening, it’s unlikely anyone will be around to collect your entrance fee.
During the day, however, the entrance fee is between 10,000 and 15,000 IDR.
Scooter parking costs between 5000 and 10,000 IDR. If you choose to enter via one of the famous swings, it could cost more than 50,000 IDR.
It’s common for farmers to ask for donations in exchange for wandering through their terraces. A donation typically costs between 10,000 and 20,000 IDR.
The famous Tegalalang Rice Terrace sunrise spot sits on the farm of a local man named Wayan. He charges tourists 50,000 IDR to enter, but he’s the coolest dude ever, so pay away!
HOW MUCH DO THE SWINGS COST AT TEGALALANG?
Jungle swings and shrieking tourists are consuming Tegalalang. On the plus side, this means there are a lot of swings to choose from if you wish to partake.
A single swing costs between 150,000 and 200,000 IDR. A double swing for two people is 300,000 IDR. If you’re feeling bold, you can try to haggle.
BEST TIME TO VISIT TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE, UBUD
The best time to visit the Tegalalang Rice Terrace is, undeniably, early in the morning. Sunrise and the hour immediately after sunrise if you can. You dodge the crowds, avoid the heat of the day, and will have the most incredible light for photos.
Not a morning person?
Then mosey on over to Tegalalang in the late afternoon or at sunset. The light is deliciously soft. Plus, it’s cooler and less crowded than it is during the day.
The rice terraces are most photogenic (aka the most green) right before harvest. This usually falls in March/April or September/October.
Credit | Aislin Fall
HOW TO GET TO TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE
SCOOTER/CAR
From downtown Ubud it's around a 20-minute scooter ride to Tegalalang, making a visit the perfect morning trip.
The drive is simple. From Ubud, find your way to JL. Raya Andong, the main road leading out of Bali towards Mt. Batur.
Before long, you’ll arrive at Tegalalang, where you’ll find a range of car parks on the left. From here it’s a short walk to the rice terraces.
From Canggu, it's about a 1.5-hour ride/drive through the busy roads of Bali, so be prepared!
TOUR
Visiting Tegalalang is one of the top things to do in Bali, and if you’d prefer to see it along with a number
of Bali attractions, you can join this tour which takes in temples Ubud, Mt. Batur, Sacred Monkey Forest and Ubud Royal Palace.
BOOK | Book your tour here
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING THE TEGALALANG RICE TERRACE
BE RESPECTFUL
You are a visitor here. Show respect to the environment, the landowners, and the locals. In places as overrun with tourists as Tegalalang, it is absolutely essential that you be on your best behaviour.
What does that mean? Don’t step onto the terraces without the permission of whoever owns the terrace. If there’s a gate or a fence, do not go there. Do not photograph the landowners or other locals without their permission (some of the locals are there to pose in your photos- for a fee).
Tegalalang Rice Terrace has been around for centuries. Tread carefully and do not cause any damage to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
WEAR PROPER FOOTWEAR
If you’re planning on walking through the rice terraces, you should wear appropriate footwear. After all, there are several kilometres worth of trails to be enjoyed. You don’t want your shoes to interfere with your experience!
Wear footwear that you’re comfortable walking those distances in… and that you’re fine getting dirty. The terraces get muddy after rain.
ARRIVE EARLY IF YOU WANT LIGHT RAYS
It’s a famous shot. You’ve probably seen it. The sweeping curves of the rice terraces lead your eyes to statuesque palm trees surrounded by the sharp slant of light rays. Maybe a woman is posed amongst the budding rice plants, likely wearing a flowing dress.
These are the dreamy conditions that entice photographers, influencers, and humble travellers with iPhones to Tegalalang. And if you want to be one of the lucky visitors to glimpse this wondrous sight, you need to get here early.
The sun's rays make their appearance early in the morning at sunrise. Set your alarm and don’t forget to grab your camera!
THE TERRACES AREN’T ALWAYS GREEN
There are two things to know about the colour of the rice terraces at Tegalalang. One, many of the Insta-famous images that you have seen from professional photographers were edited to create a specific hue. Two, the rice plants are not green all year.
In the right month, the rice terraces are almost too green to believe. This technicolour season tends to fall in March/April or September/October right before the harvest.
After the harvest, on the other hand, the terraces are a bit brown. The fields are often burned to make way for the new crop. While you can still appreciate the geography of the terraces- all ten layers swooping in wide waves down gentle slopes- it’s not the best time for photos.
Right before the new rice is planted, the terraces are flooded with water. The tiered mirrors reflect the sky above. It’s a beautiful and unique sight. (You can get a similar effect after heavy rainfall.)
SPEND TIME WITH THE LOCALS
You will probably run into more tourists than locals at Tegalalang. Although, this does depend on when you visit. Most farmers tend to their fields in the early morning, which is also when foreigners are scarce.
Nonetheless, putting in a bit of effort to get to know the local people is part of being a responsible traveller and a good person. The majority of people who come to Tegalalang are just here for the photos. But you can do more than that.
Be friendly, smile, and try to engage in conversation if the other person is willing. The Indonesian man playing a wooden xylophone on a sheltered platform is usually up for a chat.
However, the intense commercialization of this Insta-famous spot means that many of the locals you meet are hustling. They are there to provide photo opportunities in exchange for rupiah.
The farmer pulling and planting the same young rice plants over and over, who offers to involve you in the repetitive task, is doing this so that you can get a good photo of a “genuine” Balinese experience. The woman wearing a peaked hat and carrying two baskets stuffed with greenery might be there solely to pose in your photographs.
There is very little about Tegalalang Rice Terraces that feels genuine any longer.
And yet, there remains the opportunity to go deeper than these shallow, transactional exchanges. That opportunity is always present- it’s just a bit harder in some places.
If you visit, we encourage you to actually talk to the Balinese people that you meet.
OVERTOURISM AND OVERDEVELOPMENT AT TEGALALANG
What used to be a wonder of the world is quickly turning into a kitschy tourist trap. It’s… not good.
As you walk through the terraces, you quickly discover that there is no getting away from the sound of tourists squealing (or screaming) on the many nearby swings. The whirr of drones overhead is equally constant. There is no peace here. And those swings? What the heck is up with all those swings?!
Tegalalang is being stuffed with photo props and photo ops. Gaudy tree swings adorned with fake flowers. Ziplines. Hollow wooden hearts (and a giant bird's nest) where you can sit and stare dreamily at the terraces. Huge signs. Warungs, restaurants, souvenir shops, walkways.
One side of Tegalalang is so cluttered with buildings that it looks like a colourful lego town stuck to the side of a hill.
Before Covid, Bali welcomed more than 6 million tourists annually. Given how famous the Tegalalang Rice Terraces are, it’s not farfetched to say that millions of visitors descend on this ancient place every year.
All of Bali is confronting an over-tourism problem. And this daunting issue is perfectly represented here at Tegalalang. A place that used to be postcard perfect now descending into complete and utter madness. A tourism trap where the natural beauty erodes like an elephant in a cage.
There was a lot about our visit to the Tegalalang Rice Terrace that made us uncomfortable. Nothing about it feels real any longer. Many of the locals you meet are only there to pose for photos. There is so much money being made from the swings, the zipline, the cafes, the tours, the photo ops… and yet, there is a hunched Balinese man begging as he walks through the terraces.
The Tegalalang Rice Terraces are beautiful. But it also feels like something has gone very wrong.
SHOULD YOU VISIT THE TEGALALANG RICE TERRACES IN 2022?
Yes… but we must offer some words of caution.
If you visit Tegalalang, you will find a spectacular landscape of terraced rice farms, proud palm trees, and a place of cultural significance. Even the dense restaurants and cafes stacked along the road are an interesting spectacle. However, you will also encounter crowds, the constant whine of drones, the screams of tourists, tacky signs, and far too many ridiculous swings.
For many, seeing this incredible man-made structure carved into the jungle hills will be a defining part of their Bali trip. But Tegalalang is not what it once was. It is rapidly spoiling because of over-tourism.
Consequently, it’s important to adjust your expectations.
However, as with all places straining under the crushing weight of unsustainable tourism, it is sometimes better not to go at all and refuse to be part of the problem. Or, at the very least, refuse to be a patron of the lurid tourist traps. Say no to the swings, the zipline, and the other gimmicks.
During its peak hours, Tegalalang turns into a crowded theme park. Your best chance of truly appreciating the terraces is in the early morning or right before sunset.
The calm that spreads over the terraces at dawn or dusk harkens back to a time before the Instagram boom. You can see why this beautiful place became the destination it is today. The Tegalalang Rice Terraces are a true wonder of the world and you can still find wonder here… for now.
Bali’s rice terraces are part of what makes this island so special and, hopefully, their magic will endure for many more years to come.
Credit | Aislin Fall
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That, and you're officially a legend.