A Guide to Miskolc, An Unexpected Surprise in Hungary's North-East
Nestled in the foothills of Hungary’s Bükk Mountains, Miskolc is full of outdoor adventures, cultural highlights, and a unique thermal cave bath. Our guide to Miskolc covers what to see and do, plus all your essential travel information!
"You’re going to Miskolc? Well, don’t expect too much…”
This was the common response, generally accompanied by a bemused expression, when we told our Hungarian friends we were heading north for a few days.
See, the city of Miskolc in Hungary’s northeastern corner often gets a bad rap amongst locals.
Once a favourite hillside town of medieval royalty, its long lifespan has been a turbulent one. Always industrial - but pretty - at heart, by the turn of last century its existence had been pockmarked by fires, floods, deadly plagues, and brutal invasions.
Then WWII happened, and like so many industrial European towns, it was bombed heavily in the latter part of the war. When communist ideologies took over a decade later, it was rebuilt as one of Hungary’s gritty, grey main manufacturing hubs.
But beyond its industrial reputation, Miskolc has so much to offer the curious traveller - and after three days spent wandering its streets, it’s safe to say we’re pretty fond of it .
For a start, it’s on the doorstep to the outdoor adventures and epic natural scenery of the Bükk Mountains. Then there’s the enchanting nearby forest town of Lillafüred with its castle-crowned lake, plus medieval castles, trendy cafes and restaurants, thermal springs in ancient caves, and a pedestrian thoroughfare full of old-world charm.
For those with a curiosity to discover Hungary beyond its capital, who want to spend a few days reconnecting with nature again, and who appreciate visiting cities where life revolves around its locals rather than groups of rowdy passing visitors, Miskolc should be on your Hungarian itinerary.
From what to see, eat, and do to all your essential travel information, this is your guide to Miskolc.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN MISKOLC, HUNGARY
WHERE IS MISKOLC?
If you have no idea where Miskolc is, you’re not alone - neither did we! As it happens, Miskolc is located in Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén County in the north-east of the country, and is Hungary’s fourth-largest city.
Nestled in the Szinva Valley, just east of the Bükk Mountains, Miskolc is Hungary’s northern regional hub, and as a result, is very easily accessible from most parts of the country.
We’ve included a map of Miskolc (and the best things to do while you’re there!) below:
THE MISKOLC PASS
Before we get into the nitty gritty of our guide to Miskolc, one of our top tips for making the most your time here is to purchase a Miskolc Pass Tourist Card.
It’s actually not very often that we invest in a city pass when we travel; often we’re there on a flying visit, or the benefits of getting one just don’t seem to match up with what we’re planning to do whilst there.
The Miskolc Pass is a very different story though. Our 48-hour pass gave us free transport around Miskolc, free full-day entry to the Miskolctapolca Cave Baths, the Diósgyőr Castle, Szent Istvan (Saint Stephen) Cave, plus plenty more attractions than we didn’t get time to visit.
It’s entirely worth it for those keen to see as much of the region as possible, while sticking to a budget.
BUY | Purchase your Miskolc Pass here
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN MISKOLC AND SURROUNDS
WANDER MISKOLC’S PRETTY STREETS
We won't lie, take a few turns off this main street and the scenery around Miskolc changes pretty quickly; relics of the communist era still linger in its architecture, and the vibe gets a whole lot more industrial, a throwback to its past life as the country's centre of manufacturing.
But did Miskolc's chocolate box main street win us over with its charm? Oh yes it did.
Pretty pastel buildings stand in rows, painted signs of yesteryear peep out from little nooks, and the scent of warm bread wafts along the cobblestones in the early hours. When we wandered its old town streets, the morning was foggy and crisp, and the whole scene was like a nostalgic dream.
In fact, wandering Miskolc’s streets reminded us of one of the many reasons we love travel; the chance to travel somewhere new, without expectation but with wide eyes and an appreciation for the little things.
DISCOVER DIOSGYOR CASTLE
Atop a small plateau in the foothills of the Bükk Mountains that fringe Miskolc lies one of the city's most popular tourist attractions: the Diósgyőr Castle.
Diósgyőr Castle has stood sentinel here since the 13th century, and in what might be the most extravagant marital gift ever, it was gifted to new Queens of Hungary upon their engagement. Of course, I’ve already informed Mark that I expect no less on our wedding day now!
Abandoned since the 17th century, a recent renovation in 2014 has restored much of the castle to its former glory. If we’re honest, in parts it felt like the renovation had perhaps been too well done, removing some of the historic feel you might expect. That said, it’s still an interesting place to take a wander through and absorb some of Hungary’s medieval history.
Entry is 1500ft for adults, and is also included in the Miskolc Pass. Free guided tours are included (hosted by guides dressed the part!) and depart every half hour from the main courtyard.
THE DETAILS
Where | Miskolc, Vár u. 24
When | 8:45am - 5pm Tues - Sun
Cost | 1500 HUF for adults, included in the Miskolc Pass
MISKOLCTAPOLCA CAVE BATH
Just 15-minutes drive from Miskolc you’ll find the Miskolctapolca Cave Baths, aka the perfect place to spend an afternoon floating your cares away.
The cave bath complex is a series of thermal springs that flow through an ancient natural cave system, resulting in a labyrinth of passages and chambers of varying temperatures that can be explored from the water — including the famed ‘planet room’, with painted stars on the roof (something that definitely excited the little kids in us!).
There are 6 rooms/baths in total, connected by tunnels and bridges, and overall the temperature hovers around 30c (although some areas were definitely on the chillier side, especially in early autumn!).
The salt content of the water means it’s said to have healing properties — although we detected a very strong chlorine smell on us after getting out — but as the content is quite low, there’s no time limit on how long you can be in the complex.
The majority of the cave baths are inside (a blessing in the cooler months), though there’s a collection of outdoor pools and play areas for kids open seasonally too. We recommend visiting in the morning as the cave baths are a very popular thing to do in Miskolc, and fill up very quickly!
Entry prices change depending on the season. During the summer months, expect to pay 5000ft (£12 / $16), while it was around £8 / $10 when we visited in late October. Full day entry is included in your Miskolc Pass (which we had!).
To get there without a car, take bus #2 from Búza tér in Miskolc.
THE DETAILS
Where | Miskolc, Pazár István stny. 1
When | 9am - 7pm every day
Cost | Changes seasonally, but expect to pay between £8-12 / $12-16.
One full day entry included in the Miskolc Pass.
READ | Our guide to the Miskolctapolca Cave Baths (coming very soon!).
EXPLORE THE BEAUTY OF LILLAFÜRED
Lillafured was built as a tourist resort in the 1890s by Count Bethlen, who envisioned a place where the wealthy could stay, play, and recuperate by the lake.
Nestled into the forested Bükk Mountains and full of outdoor adventure and pretty scenery, the area was named for the County chief’s niece, Erzsebet, nicknamed Lilla.
The Palace Hotel is undoubtedly the most iconic feature of the area, mirrored in the lake and rising from the surrounding ochre and green mountains like the stage of a fairytale.
The hotel grounds are also home to ornate hanging gardens and Lillafüred waterfall (Hungary’s highest, though man-made) - both free to wander through.
With a number of forest hikes, a walking path around the lake (and the lake itself!), ancient caves, and an old-timey narrow gauge forest train, there’s plenty to explore around Lillafüred, including:
RENT A BOAT ON LAKE HAMORI
Lillafüred’s Lake Hamori (Hamori-to) is very much Hungary’s answer to neighbouring Slovenia's Lake Bled; a picturesque lake fringed by a peaceful forest and a romantic castle.
The lake was created early in the 19th century by the damming of the Szinva and Garadna streams to provide a nearby iron furnace with a steady water supply, and in a rare instance of man-made ending up just as pretty as the real deal, the lake is a seriously picturesque place to spend a few hours.
In the summer months, you can rent colourful row boats and head out on the lake for a paddle - something we highly recommend as the views from the lake back to the Palace Hotel are probably the best in the area. We enjoyed it so much we actually ended up going back twice in two days just to enjoy the peaceful serenity of the lake, especially in the quieter late afternoon hours.
If you do decide to rent a boat, head to the left of the lake and down the steps trailing behind the round souvenir shop on the main road, and organise it through the super friendly boat keeper, Leslie, there. Thirty minutes costs 500 ft per person (~£1.25 / $1.60).
THE DETAILS
Where | Lake Hamori / Hamori-to
JUMP ABOARD THE LILLAFÜRED STATE FOREST RAILWAY
Opened in the 1920s, the Lillafüred State Forest Railway is a gorgeous old-timey train that weaves along a narrow forest track between Miskolc and the little forest village of Garadna.
Visit in autumn and you’ll be greeted with every bit the enchanting experience you might imagine; auburn leaves blanketed the forest floor like a carpet, tree branches stretched overhead like a golden tunnel, and the frosty air enveloped the track in a misty, moody fog.
The journey take about 60-90 minutes one-way, and for the best views, be sure to snag a seat on the right hand side of the train on the way to Garadna.
The train runs year-round, with open air carriages between Spring-Autumn. If you join during the cooler autumn months be sure to layer up as the journey can get quite chilly!
In winter, all carriages are closed and kept wonderfully toasty by a little iron furnace in, something we were delighted to defrost in front of for a small while on our return journey.
Return tickets are 2,600 HUF pp, and can only be paid in cash on board (don’t get caught out like we were!). You can purchase tickets using a card at Miskolc-Dorottya and Lillafüred stations though.
THE DETAILS
Where | Miskolc-Dorottya station
When | Weekends and public holidays - timetable here.
VISIT SZENT ISTVAN CAVE
Just up the hill from Hamori Lake and the Palace Hotel, you’ll find the Szent Istvan Cave (Szent Istvan Barlang), a limestone cave millions of years old stretching under the earth.
Local legend has it that the cave was discovered in 1900 by an unlikely explorer, an enthusiastic pup who accidentally fell through the cave’s only natural opening - a 15-m deep shaft - and barked for days on end. When hoomans (sorry, couldn’t resist) finally came to said pup's aid, they discovered the cave itself and initially named it Kutya-lyuk (dog hole).
The cave was opened to the public in 1931, and served as a bomb shelter during WWII - the damage to some of the stalagmites and stalactites is still visible today.
The cave has about 4 ‘rooms’ open, with a number of impressive natural structures, and is only accessible via a guided tour. Tours last about 30 minutes, and we’re pretty sure they’re only conducted in Hungarian, but we were given an English information sheet. Dress warmly - it’s 10c in there!
One free entry is included with the Miskolc Pass, otherwise entry is 1500ft per adult.
THE DETAILS
Where | Szent István Cave, Miskolc, Egri Országút
When | 9am - 3pm every day
Cost | 1500ft per person, or free with Miskolc Pass
TIPS | There are also two more caves, the limestone Anna Cave famous for plant fossils, and the Szeleta Cave, where many paleolithic artefacts have been found. We didn’t get a chance to explore these, but if you have more time up your sleeve they’re worth adding to your Miskolc itinerary!
TAKE THE LILLAFÜRED LIBEGO
For a new perspective on the region, jump onto the Lillafured Libegő (chairlift) to the mountain station of Jávorhegy.
The libegő runs for about 1km from Erzsebet promenade in Lillafüred to Jávorhegy, making it’s way peacefully up the forested mountain. Below, the mountain biking trail and the Oxygen hiking trail weave lines down the hillside, with the occasional mountain biker appearing like a flash underneath you before disappearing back into the undergrowth.
The ride to the top takes about 15-20 minutes and plonks you right in the heart of the Miskolc Resort Area. Mountain bikers can attach their bikes to the cable car rack for a stress free journey.
Once you’re at the top, the choice of where to wander is endless; trails head off in every direction, criss-crossing back and forth through meadows and forested areas.
When we visited in early autumn, the trees were ablaze with ochre and russet, a carpet of red rolled out along their base.
What struck us most was the peace and quiet, save for the singing of little birds busying themselves with winter preparations. Definitely the perfect place to spend a late afternoon before heading back to Budapest!
There’s a small wooden kiosk serving drinks (including mulled wine!), snacks, and flakey strudel if you’re in need of sustenance. No toilets up here though - so be sure to go before you head up to the top!
THE DETAILS
When | Lillafüred Libego, Erzsebet Setany
Cost | 1700ft return per adult
GO FOR A HIKE IN THE BÜKK MOUNTAINS
Hungary isn’t exactly known for its mountains; the majority of the country has an elevation of less than 300 metres. But the Bükk Mountains are an exception to the general rule, coming in at 8-900 metres - and they’re pretty dang exceptional when it comes to their beauty too.
As Hungary’s largest and most diverse national park, Bükk National Park is very much the lungs of the country. For those serious about ditching the hustle and bustle of city life and escaping to the hills, the ancient forests, pretty meadows, intriguing cave networks and peaceful lakes of Bükk are exactly where you want to escape to.
In Autumn, the mountains are awash with beautiful autumn colours, while in Spring the national park is one of the best places in Hungary to admire wildflowers in bloom.
The area is renowned as a hiking destination, and there are more than 70 well-established trails that make for a great day no matter the season. A few of our basic recommendations are:
The loop around Bükk Plateau, a large limestone karst plateau with lots of lookout points, rock formations, historic castle sites and more
The ‘Veil Waterfall' (Fáty-ol) hike from Szilvásvárad
The Szalajka Valley trails
Walking around Lake Hamori in Lillafüred (Hámori-to)
The Istállós-kő cave, where ancient jewellery made from bones was discovered
Tip | There are rumours of wolf, Lynx, and brown bear populations returning to the mountains - so it is generally advisable to stick to trails and avoid hiking around sunrise or sunset.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN MISKOLC
There are plenty of options for dining in and around Miskolc, and while we didn’t get to sample a huge array (just more reason to go back next time, right?!), below are a few we did get to enjoy:
ZIP’S BREWHOUSE
As we’re often wont to do on our travels, we’d left our evening food hunt a little late on our first night, and as a result ended up wandering around the city getting increasingly hangry with each other… until we found Zip’s.
This trendy brewhouse serves up craft beer produced in the local area and a delicious selection of tapas. It was also definitely the best meal we had in Miskolc.
THE DETAILS
Where | Zip’s Brews and Tapas House
Cost | 6 tapas plates and 3 beers cost ~£20
PIZZA, KÁVÉ, VILÁGBÉKE
“My mom said the shortest way to World Peace is through a good pizza and a good coffee,”
So reads the about section of Pizza,Kávé,Világbéke, literally translated to pizza, coffee, world peace — and we’re pretty sure we don’t need to tell you guys we agree that these are three things we should all be striving for more of in 2020 and beyond.
This hip warehouse-style Roman pizza and coffeehouse is the latest offering from the team behind Anyukám Mondta (My Mother Said) in the nearby town of Encs, which people drive two hours from Budapest to just for dinner. Pizzas are served up in square slices and were pretty damn tasty, the coffee is good, and it was bustling every single time we went in.
It’s an affordable option too - slices are between 700 - 900ft.
THE DETAILS
Where | Miskolc, Széchenyi István út 19
SÜT A NAP VEGAN BISZTRO
We’ve gotta be honest with you guys, if you’re a veggie traveller like us, you’re going to find it tricky to find decent options outside of Budapest. If you’re vegan, that mission becomes almost impossible.
So imagine our surprise and delight, when we were wandering around Miskolc and discovered Süt a Nap, a totally vegan restaurant serving up classic faves (including Beyond Meat burgers) and traditional Hungarian fare.
After days of eating extremely heavy cream and cheese-based meals, a veggie meal served by friendly staff was exactly what we needed. It’s exciting to see that veggie/vegan options are increasing in Hungarian towns, and it definitely took the usual stress out of meal time in rural Hungary that we normally face!
THE DETAILS
Where | Miskolc, Szechenyi Istvan utca 49
TOTI ALBAN PEKSEG
Both mornings we spent in Miskolc had us rising pretty early, so a quick breakfast pastry on the go was a must. Toti Alban Pekseg was our saviour on both occasions; with flakey, fresh, still warm pastries that filled our bellies and got us started for the day ahead properly.
We recommend the Kakaós Csiga, aka chocolate snail (a popular Hungarian pastry), as it’s by far the tastiest, flakiest, and biggest we’ve ever had in Hungary.
THE DETAILS
Where | Miskolc, Szechenyi Istvan utca
YOUR MISKOLC TRAVEL PLANNING ESSENTIALS
WHERE TO STAY IN MISKOLC
We had a lovely stay at the Vintage Apartment in Miskolc, which was right in the heart of the old town, overlooking the main pedestrian street.
Our host, David, was very kind and attentive and and the apartment itself was comfortable, spacious and had everything we needed for a short stay (including a coffee machine, always a must!).
As the apartment looks over a tram stop, light sleepers may want to bring some earplugs although rolling down the shutters does block the majority of noise.
There’s also a car space in the carpark out the back - something greatly appreciated in an area where parking space seemed few and far between.
BOOK | VINTAGE APARTMENT MISKOLC
HOW TO GET TO MISKOLC
Personally, we recommend getting to Miskolc by car as it affords the most flexibility in your itinerary here, especially as many of the places listed in this guide are spaced out, and require some form of transport to reach easily.
Alternatively, Miskolc is very well serviced by rail lines from all over Hungary. More on that below!
BY CAR
Getting to Miskolc from Budapest by car is super easy, it’s a matter of jumping straight on the M3 and pretty much following it the whole way to Miskolc.
We rented a car from Budapest through Rentalcars.com for about £40 for 3 days.
To use the motorway in Hungary, you need a highway permit (“matrica” in Hungarian, or Vignette - more information here), which can be obtained either at a petrol station on your journey or added to your car hire booking when picking up your car. It’s generally around 3,500 HUF / €10 extra.
BY TRAIN
As Hungary’s northern hub, Miskolc can be reach by all train lines heading north and from all major train stations within the country. There’s also a twice-daily service running to Košice (Slovakia) that runs through Miskolc too.
From Budapest, services run every 30-60 minutes (depending whether they’re express vs regular) from Budapest Keleti and operate straight through to Miskolc without changes. Prices are generally around 3,500 - 3,800 ft (£8-9).
Full train timetables to Miskolc can be found here.
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN HUNGARY
Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance, even if you’re the most experienced traveller.
Whether it be a hiking injury, car accident, theft, or lost baggage, things can go wrong in Hungary, and insurance is your only way of mitigating the issues!
BUY | Click here to get the best travel insurance deals with World Nomads
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