A Complete Guide to Budapest's Jewish Quarter: Culture, Food, Bars & More
From the historical sights through to hip ruin bars, exceptional restaurants through to brunch and coffee hot spots, this Budapest Jewish Quarter guide has you covered.
Once a dilapidated district riddled with pain and trauma from the atrocities of WW2, the Jewish Quarter of Budapest (Erzsébetváros) is now home to trendy cafes & restaurants, famous attractions, notorious ruin bars and parties, and incredible street art.
And for 2.5 years, the district that draws people from all over Europe was our home - a place to indulge, but also a place for the every day.
These streets represented so much more than parties to us - it was here on these worn, historic streets we’d shop for groceries, buy bread, celebrate birthdays, hug our neighbours, welcome new friends and say goodbye to old ones, bar hop, enjoy romantic dinners, and do just about every other normal life task.
We got to know its history, its culture and its people, and fell in love with this thriving, quirky, cosmopolitan corner of beautiful Budapest.
Because of this, you could say we’re experts on the Jewish Quarter and we want you to enjoy this district as much as us.
So that’s why this guide was born.
From the historical sights through to hip ruin bars, exceptional restaurants through to brunch and coffee hot spots, this Budapest Jewish Quarter guide has you covered. Enjoy!
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BUDAPEST
JEWISH QUARTER
SNAPSHOT
WHERE | District VII (Erzsébetváros), Budapest
THINGS TO SEE | Dohany St Synagogue, Szimpla Kert, New York Cafe
WHERE TO EAT | Dobrumba, Koleves, Mazel Tov
BEST BRUNCH | Cirkusz, Dorado, Vinyl & Wood
BEST COFFEE | Dorado, Cirkusz, Aran Bakery
COOL SHOPPING | Retrock, Ludovika, Plante
HISTORY OF THE JEWISH QUARTER, BUDAPEST
“People used to live here” says a nondescript plaque placed on the outside of the busiest of all Jewish Quarter attractions, Szimpla Kert.
And it’s easy to forget that people, did, and still do, call this district home. Gentrification over the last 20 years has turned what was once a dilapidated district into one of the most popular in Europe, if not the world.
The 7th District of Budapest (or Erzsébetváros) became the centre point for Jewish culture in the late 1800s, and over the next 150 years, the community grew rapidly.
By 1930 there were around 200,000 jews living in Budapest, mostly in this district. It was a successful community filled with business owners, doctors, lawyers, musicians and journalists, yet this large minority group slowly became the target for Hungarian leaders during the mid-late years of WW2, eager to appease the anti-Semitic policies of Nazi Germany.
Following the German occupation of 1944, the ghetto was created, encircling many parts of the old Jewish Quarter including the two main synagogues, Dohany and Kazinczy. Cut off from the outside world, with little food, the community began to suffer - many were sent to their deaths in the concentration camps, while the rest were left for dead in the very streets, from starvation, disease or hypothermia.
Within just 56 Days of German occupation, over 400,000 jews were deported from Hungary to the death camps in Poland. In addition, the local Arrow Cross party murdered over 10,000 Jews, many shot by the Danube river so they fell into the water and were washed away.
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The horrific actions from WW2 left a scar on the district that is still visible today. The district fell into disrepair and many homes were abandoned, and it wasn’t until the early 2000s did the fortune of this neighbourhood change.
The success of the original ruin bar, Szimpla Kert, and cheap rent, turned District VII into one of the most popular party districts in Europe, bringing liberal youth from all over and rapidly gentrifying the streets.
What you see now is a result of this gentrification - a mix of old and new, both physically and spiritually - orthodox Jews walk past groups of young men here for a party, kosher restaurants sit alongside hipster burger joints, and historic buildings juxtapose with gleaming new apartments.
Thankfully, Hungary is still home to one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe, and the synagogues in the district have beer restored to their former beauty, while some Jewish cultural elements still remain, holding on in the world of change.
WHERE TO STAY IN THE JEWISH QUARTER
Below, we’ve provided our top recommendations on where to stay the Jewish Quarter of Budapest to suit each budget.
After living in the city for over two years, we know exactly which hotel is best, based on price, location, and above all, comfort!
Alternatively, if you’re looking to book accommodation elsewhere in the city, read our curated where to stay in Budapest guide
NOTE | We actively don’t promote Airbnb in Budapest due to the negative impact on the local community.
HOSTELS & BUDGET ACCOMMODATION
There are a huge array of hostels located in the Jewish Quarter, and these are our top four:
HOSTEL ONE | Consistently rated as one of the best hostels in the city. It’s known for being all about community and socialising, but not just in the party sense. Book here
MAVERICK CITY LODGE | A cross between a budget hotel and an upmarket hostel, Maverick City Lodge is positioned right in the middle of all the good things - Szimpla Kert is 1 min away, Dohany Synagogue 2 mins, and the best food is on your doorstep. Perfect for couples on a budget. Book here
WOMBAT’S CITY HOSTEL | Location is important, and Wombat’s is right in the heart of the city. One of the nicest hostels in Budapest, perfect for exploring or partying. Book here
THE HIVE PARTY HOSTEL | If it’s a party you’re after, The Hive is the place to be. Modern rooms & amenities are also a plus, as is the location, right in the middle of the party area. Book here
Alternatively, search for your perfect Budapest hostel here
MID-RANGE ACCOMMODATION
HOTEL MEMORIES | Stylish hotel located directly opposite Dohany St Synagogue. Also has a lounge with free drinks and snacks. Book here
STORIES BOUTIQUE HOTEL | Chic and super stylish 4* hotel in the perfect location. Breakfast is included in most room prices. Book here
LEONARDO BOUTIQUE HOTEL | Clean, modern 4* hotel located right in the heart of the city, close to all the major attractions. The breakfast here is a winner. Book here
LUXURY JEWISH QUARTER ACCOMMODATION
ANANTARA NEW YORK PALACE | It’s luxurious, stylish, spacious and a huge splurge, but worth it for a once-in-a-lifetime stay in exceptional luxury. Book here
HOTEL CORINTHIA | One of Budapest’s most exceptional hotels, inside a stunning1800s building. If elegance is what you’re after, look no further. Book here
QUEEN’S COURT RESIDENCE | Classic Budapest hotel with older finishings and a historic look. Perfect location, too. Book here
Alternatively, search and book your perfect accommodation here
THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN THE JEWISH DISTRICT
EMBRACE BUDAPEST’S RUIN BAR CULTURE AT SZIMPLA KERT
Ruin Bars have brought travellers to the Jewish Quarter of Budapest for close to 20 years now, and a drink or 10 at the famous Szimpla Kert is one of the best things to do in Budapest.
But what is a ruin bar exactly?
After World War 2 and the cold war years, many buildings in the old Jewish Quarter of Budapest were left to rack and ruin. In the early noughties, a number of enterprising individuals began to transform these dilapidated buildings and courtyards into the perfect character-filled underground bars and pubs, or 'romkocsma' - earning them the title of ruin bars/pubs.
From the outside they could easily be confused with your average run-down building, inside they’re anything but average, with Szimpla Kert, being the original, and best, ruin bar in Budapest.
Stepping inside the glass doors of Szimpla Kert is as if you’ve stepped into another world - the eclectic furniture, the art, the colourful neon lights, the disco balls, the 90’s tv’s, and plants hanging from the ceiling.
There are a range of themed bars within Szimpla Kert, ranging from beer, wine and shisha, and the booze is cheap (ish), making it the perfect starting point for a night out in Budapest.
Szimpla Kert also run an awesome Sunday farmer market, where producers from all over descend to sell local produce, including fruit, vegetables, breads, spreads and cheese (omg the goat’s cheese is to die for), honey etc., as well as some Hungarian street food stalls.
Once you’ve visited Szimpla Kert, you’ll want to explore more of Budapest’s best ruin bars. There are many spread out around the Jewish Quarter and beyond - read our guide to find the best ones.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Kazinczy u. 14
Opening Hours | Mon - Fri: 3pm - 4am, Sat: 11am - 4am, Sun: 9am - 4am, Sunday Farmers Market: 9 am - 2 pm.
Cost | Free
Related | Our complete guide to Szimpla Kert, our detailed guide to Budapest’s best ruin bars
THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE OF BUDAPEST
The centre point of Jewish culture and indeed modern Jewish history in Hungary is the Dohany Street Synagogue (the Great Synagogue).
Inaugurated in 1859, Dohany Street Synagogue is the largest in Europe, and the second largest in the world and is located right in the heart of the bustling Jewish Quarter. Its size, however, does not detract from its beauty - it’s quite simply one of the most beautiful structures in all of Budapest.
Featuring a breathtaking array of ornate architectural details, elegant brickwork and magnificent stained glass windows, the synagogue is a feast for your eyes (and camera). The outstanding domed towers hint at the building’s Moorish/Oriental design inspirations and are the most emblematic part of the building.
The interior is mysterious, combining Moorish elements, including, the splendid organ, impressive Torah ark, gilded detailing and colourful geometrical paintings.
However, while the architecture is stunning, it’s the building’s (and Budapest’s) past which is most intriguing. An important sight for Jewish public life since its inauguration, the Synagogue and surrounding district were at the heart of brutal WW2 atrocities.
Hungary joined the Axis in late 1940 in exchange for returned lands lost in the Treaty of Trianon, yet by 1943 the country was keen to side with the Allies, all too aware of the brutal Nazi Germany atrocities. In March 1944, Germany invaded Hungary, and the Nazi’s, aided by the Hungarian Fascists, began to deport Jews and Gypsies to the death camps of Auschwitz.
The synagogue serves as both a memorial to the lives (and families) lost in Budapest and beyond, and as a beacon of solidarity and hope.
As such, we recommend joining a guided tour of the complex and visiting the various memorials that exist throughout the site, including the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park, the Tree of Life sculpture, and the Martyrs' Cemetery.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Dohány u. 2
Opening Hours | Sun - Thurs 10:00 - 16:00, Friday 10:00 - 14:00, Saturday closed
Cost | HUF 5,000, Get a 10% discount with the Budapest Card here
Plan | Plan your visit with our complete guide to the Dohány St Synagogue
BOOK | A guided tour of the Great Synagogue
ENJOY COFFEE AND CAKE AT NEW YORK CAFE
Words cannot adequately describe New York Cafe, one Budapest’s most famous attractions. Built in neo-renaissance style, with marble columns, sparkling chandeliers and stunning frescoes, the cafe literally takes your breath away.
Similar to Vienna, Budapest is know for its grand cafe culture, and New York Cafe has been welcoming visitors for over 125 years, initially as a meeting place for the local bourgeoisie, as well as writers and poets keen to sell their skills to the highest bidder.
Now, it’s filled with tourists keen to enjoy coffee and cake in this beautiful, old world setting.
Beyond the beauty, there is live Gypsy music from 11am, which provides a certain ambience which is unmatched anywhere else in Budapest.
We recommend the selection of cakes, including the caramel dobos torte (NOM!), and traditional layered chocolate, and a decadent hot chocolate for which the New York Cafe is famous for. Sure, you’ll likely have a sugar crash an hour later, but it’s 100% worth it.
Alternatively, there’s a full buffet brunch selection (at €30, you’ll want to eat everything!), which includes a selection of pastries, breads, fruits, plus coffee, tea, herbal teas, hot chocolate, and freshly squeezed orange juice, and a selection of one warm dish from the breakfast menu, such as poached eggs, eggs benedict, and even American-style pancakes.
Visiting the New York Cafe is a once in a lifetime experience, so we highly recommend splashing the cash and soaking up the atmosphere of this extravagant cafe. Be warned though - i gets outrageously busy, so remember to book in advance to secure yourself a seat.
If you’re unlucky enough to not get a seat, don’t fret - there are a number of other exeptional coffee houses throughout Budapest, including the grand Café Gerbeaud, the charming Café Zsivágó, and the ever popular Muvész Coffee House.
THE DETAILS
Where | 1073 Budapest, Erzsébet ut. 9-11.
Opening hours | Monday – Sunday: 8 am – 12 am, Breakfast from 8 am – 11 am
Tips | Book in advance here
Read | Our complete guide to visiting New York Cafe
EXPLORE THE OLD STREETS
Home to Budapest’s Jewish community since the late 1700’s, it was also on these very streets that the Jewish Ghetto was placed during WW2, and remnants of this time still exist, including the Synagogue triangle, parts of the ghetto wall, Holocaust memorials, Jewish restaurants and stores. For this reason, we recommend you remain respectful when walking these streets, even if you’re in Budapest to party.
To better understand its past, we highly recommend taking a walking tour of the district, which you can book here.
The starting point is Kiraly Utca, home to hostels, bars, eateries and the infamous Gozdu Udvar, a renovated passageway featuring clubs, bars, and mid-range restaurants offering Hungarian and western fare. it’s popular with tourists, but we recommend exploring further into the district to find the real treats!
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On Akácfa utca you’ll find the uber-busy Mazel Tov (head to Dobrumba instead... trust us), and the party capital of Budapest, Instant/Fogas, where the tunes play till the early hours.
Nearby Kazinczy Utca is home to Budapest’s most famous ruin bar, Szimpla Kert, and Karavan, a street-food courtyard with heaps of different fast food options.
For somewhere more relaxed, head to our favourite bar in Budapest, Köleves Kert, a garden cum bar that has vibes for days in summer. There’s also the Kazinczy Utca Synagogue, one of three in the district.
Hipsters flock to Madach Imre Ter, a square filled with uber-cool bars, cafe’s and shops where Budapest’s creative youth often meet. Telep and Központ are the coolest bars here and don’t forget to grab incredible Neapolitan-style pizza at Moto. Close by is Rumbach Synagogue, the second of the glorious Jewish places of worship.
Back towards Wesselenyi Utca is the Great Synagogue (see above), Europe’s largest and most beautiful. Further up the street is Arán Bakery, maybe the best in Budapest and perfect for a quick snack on the go.
The district is also home to many of the best brunches in Budapest, including Cirkusz, Dorado (also great for coffee), Stika, Vinyl & Wood.
The 7th District can get a little (read very!) touristy, so if you’re after somewhere more local where the local hipsters and students frequent, head across to the stunning 8th District. It’s probably our favourite district in Budapest, home to some of our favourite cafe’s, bars, and buildings.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest Jewish Quarter
Read | The best brunch in Budapest, Our guide to Budapest’s Hipster 8th District
Book | A guided walking tour of the Jewish District
PARTY AT INSTANT & FOGAS
After taking over an entire apartment building, Instant/Fogas is Budapest’s largest ruin bar, and Europe’s largest party complex, with 7 different floors, 18 bars, and 2 gardens (yeah, it’s big!).
Formally two separate ruin bars, Instant and Fogasház joined forces to create the ultimate party place in Budapest. This is the place you come after pre-drinks at Szimpla Kert, a place to settle in and party the night away. Or, you can start and end your night here - it’s your choice!
What were once individual apartments have morphed into themed rooms with theatrical decor in typical ruin bar style, where Djs pump out tunes for dance floor enthusiasts. If that’s not your vibe, you can chill in the gardens instead.
Within the complex, there are seven separate dance floors (or ‘clubs’), featuring music for just about every taste (no country music though, soz!):
Instant | Ruin bar with dance floor and billiards room
Unterwelt | The Rn’B club in the complex, hosting international DJ’s playing the latest tunes, remixes
Liebling | The chill area, featuring a rooftop to enjoy a more relaxed drink
Larm | Techno and electro parties featuring some of Budapest’s best DJ’s
Robot | Rock and Roll anthems in this cavernous space
Frame | Latin beats and broken beats, Instant’s latest bar
Fogas | Electro tunes and an awesome garden
Like most of the popular ruin bars in Budapest, drinks at Instant/Fogas is a little more on the expensive side, but still cheaper than most of western Europe.
Fortunately though, entry is free. Another cool thing is that drinks are served in refundable eco cups with a token (300 HUF). When you’re done with your cup, just drop it back to the bar in the garden, next to the cloakroom, and get your money back.
Overall, there’s probably no better place to get an all in one party in Budapest, and while it might feel a little touristy in here, you’re almost guaranteed an awesome night out.
THE DETAILS
Where | Akácfa utca 51, District VII
Opening hours | Mon – Sun: 6pm – 6am
Tips | Stay away from the street dealers, be quiet when you leave
Entry | free of charge
GO SHOPPING
Budapest isn’t really a city you come to shop, however if it is bespoke design shops or vintage threads you desire, look no further.
The Jewish District is filled with super cool vintage stores popular with Budapest’s hipster youth, where you can pick up a bargain or 10. There are also a number of cool print and design stores that sell everything from eco-products through to art.
These are some of our recommended shopping stops:
LUDOVIKA | A local favourite, this female-owned boutique sells quirky pre-owned & new design clothes. Located in the middle of the hipster Madach Square
RETROCK | The biggest vintage and designer clothes store in Budapest, selling high quality threads with prices to match. We’ve found a number of cool pieces here, so it’s always worth a visit
SZPUTNYIK | Another popular retro and vintage store located near Astoria, Szputnyik has a lot on offer for females looking for an 80’s style
DRESSING ROOM | Located in the heart of the 7th district, Dressing Room is a hidden treasure, featuring unique and funky threads at affordable prices
PRINTA DESIGN SHOP | Uber cool sustainable, eco-friendly store selling an amazing array of clothes, prints and artwork, all from Hungarian designers. If you want a unique print of Budapest, this is your place. They also do great coffee
PLANTE | The plant store of dreams, Plante is maybe for the long term residents on Budapest - they sell a huge array of millennial favourite plants and the staff are super knowledgable. Also a florist, with an exceptional selection of tulips during season
ADMIRE THE STREET ART
To a street artist, an empty wall is the perfect blank canvas to produce their art, and Jewish Quarter of Budapest has a LOT of empty walls.
Post-war, the crumbling buildings were torn down, leaving large, empty lots with exposed walls for artists to do their thing. But, as graffiti is illegal in Hungary, the local authorities commissioned local artist groups to create large, meaningful murals to brighten up the district.
As a result, the 7th District has an incredible array of large, exceptional street art and murals, as well as some more subtle, underground pieces.
The most famous piece is located on Rumbach Sebastyén Street, a nod to Hungary’s former football glories when the ‘Mighty Magyars’ beat England 6-3 in the so-called “Match of the Century”. Nearby is the colourful Rubik’s Cube, a tribute to the toy’s Hungarian creator, Erno Rubik.
Further into the district on Wesselenyi Street is the famous Time magazine cover from 1957, showing Hungary’s Freedom Fighters as their Man of the Year.
Nearby is Kertész street, home to a number of exceptional pieces including our favourite, ‘Motivation is a Wonderland’ by Spanish artist Dan Ferrer, depicting an Alice-in-Wonderland-esque child who has grown too big for the house she kneels within. It’s thought provoking, yet rich in colour and symbolism.
Another favourite is the incredible, colourful door mural on Kazinczy, which has become somewhat of an Instagram destination over the years.
To find the best street art in the district, stroll the following streets, and always keep your head up!
Kazinczy Utca
Dob Utca
Akácfa utca
Kertész utca
While graffiti is technically illegal in Hungary, that doesn’t stop artists doing their thing - on almost every corner of the district there is a subtle ‘f**k you’ to the government is the form of a sticker, quote, tag or piece - just look around and take it all in.
STOCK UP AT ARAN BAKERY
Located right in the heart of the 7th District, Arán is one of the best bakeries if Budapest, if not the world. Seriously.
Arán means bread in Irish, which might seem weird considering it’s located in downtown Budapest, but owners Kinga & Attila set up the bakery after working for many years in Dublin. As it’s a two-minute walk from our apartment, we visit maybe 2-3 times per week to get bread or treats.
Some of our favourites include the croissants, which are the best in the city, and maybe Europe. They’re baked fresh daily and are so flaky and flavoursome we’re drooling writing this.
A local favourite is the parno, pastry parcels with different fillings - try the savoury truffle and mushroom, or the sweet custard and berry option.
But our number one treat is the cinnamon scroll, a crispy, moist, sugar-laden scroll that needs to be eaten to be believed. They’re super popular, so get in early to get yours.
They also do a range of tasty sandwiches if you plan on exploring for the whole day (their vegan option is really delicious).
Funnily enough, Arán also does really great coffee, so if you’re on the go, grab one too.
THE DETAILS
Where | Wesselényi ut. 23
Opening hours | Mon - Fri: 7:30am - 6pm, Sat-Sun: 8am - 3pm
Best for | Croissants & coffee on the go
BREAK OUT FROM AN ESCAPE ROOM
Escape rooms can be a bit hit and miss, but Aroom, located on Kiraly Street in the heart of the Jewish Quarter, is easily the most challenging and fun one we’ve done.
There are a six different themed escape rooms to choose from, and we ended up selecting the ‘Metro’ challenge - a nail biting and intelligence-challenging escape from a terrorism encounter on the Metro.
The escape room was extremely well put together with an elaborate set (featuring real train!), challenging tasks, from fully linear to some parallel puzzle solving, and some helpful tips when needed.
If you’re in Budapest with friends, we definitely recommend Aroom.
THE DETAILS
Where | Aroom, Budapest, Király u. 14
Opening hours | Mon - Thurs: 1 pm - 10 pm, Fri - Sun: 10 am - 10 pm
MASSOLIT BOOK CAFE
One of the best book cafe’s in Budapest, Massolit is like an oasis in an otherwise chaotic district.
Set amongst the historic buildings of Nagy Diófa street, this cozy-cafe offers coffee and cake amongst a library of books.
The setting is gorgeous and invites calmness, so grab yourself a coffee and book, and head to the rear of the store and relax amongst the sun-lit room filled with endless books, plants and vintage chairs, or the leafy patio.
For English speakers, there’s a huge array of new and second hand books at affordable prices - it was here we’d regularly shop for our books during our 2+ years of living in Budapest.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Nagy Diófa u. 30
Opening hours | Daily: 9:30 am - 7 pm
WHERE TO EAT IN THE JEWISH QUARTER
DOBRUMBA
Dobrumba might just be our favourite restaurant in Budapest.
The effortlessly cool interior coupled with exceptional Middle Eastern cuisine means this hotspot never disappoints.
The food, wine and cocktail menu is extensive, and the food is wonderful - our picks include the fried cauliflower, goat labneh za’atar, the za’atar fried potatoes (these send us to heaven), and the hummus plate. Oh, and the labneh, spino fatoush salad is also a winner.
Pair your food with a Hungarian white or red wine and you’ve got the perfect evening out in the Jewish Quarter. Reservation is required, sometimes week in advance (yeah, it’s a busy one!).
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Dob u. 5
Opening hours | Daily: 12 pm - 11 pm
Tips | Book well in advance
KÖLEVES VENDEGLO
Blending traditional Hungarian and Jewish food, Köleves is our go-to restaurant (and adjoining bar!) when friends visit the city.
Set on the historic Kazinczy street, Köleves has stood the test of time - it’s been around for over 10 years, and their food is testament to that. The simple menu is filled with a range of vegetarian, vegan and meant dishes, all cooked to utter perfection every single time (we’ve been here maybe 20+ times!).
Recommended dishes include bean goulash soup, which is perhaps the best in the city, the goose leg with semi-mashed potatoes and steamed red cabbage, and the homely wild mushroom risotto. The wine list is exceptional here, as are the staff, so take their recommendations if undecided.
For dessert, try their famous pistachio tiramisu.
Köleves also does a weekday lunchtime menu (12 pm - 3 pm) which is cheap and delicious.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Kazinczy u. 37-41
Opening hours | Mon - Sun: 11:30 am - 11 pm
Tips | Bookings essential on weekends
MAZEL TOV
Architecturally designed, uber modern with a minimalistic warehouse feel, Mazel Tov is a chic modern take on a ruin pub and feels like it was pulled out of New York and plonked into Budapest’s Jewish Quarter.
Hyped as one of the best restaurants in Budapest, the food is good, not great, and quite over priced - there are a far better restaurants in the Jewish District, including the incredible Dobrumba. The staff too, can be a little rude.
The setting, however, is next level, and makes a booking at Mazel Tov almost essential when visiting Budapest.
Restaurant by day, garden party area by evening, Mazel Tov has DJs and bands playing every night. If your idea of a night out is an uber trendy experience without the grunge then this is the place for you.
Reservations are essential here - Mazel Tov is probably Budapest’s busiest establishment.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Akácfa u. 47
Opening hours | Wed - Sun: 12 pm - 12 am, Mon - Tues: 5 pm - 12 am
Tips | Book well in advance
There are also a range of great take away/ relaxed restaurants that exist in the Jewish Quarter. After spending almost one year in lockdown in this part of the city, it’s safe to say we know almost every single take away - see our favourites below:
MOTO PIZZA | Delicious Neapolitan-style pizza located in hipster Madach Square. Dough is made fresh daily and cooked in their wood-fired oven, so expect an exceptional pizza. Pizzas start from HUF 1,900 (€6)
DIGO PIZZA | Located on Kazinczy street, close to Szimpla Kert and Köleves Kert, Digo is another exceptional Neapolitan-style pizza. Slightly more upmarket, so expect slighty higher prices.
BLUE AGORI | Fresh, well prepared Greek street food, which in some cases, is actually better than the food we had in Greece. Affordable and delicious gyros, plates and salads.
BORS | Just down from Szimpla Kert is Bors, a local institution selling unique soups and rolls. Sounds a little boring, but trust us, this is one place to get your street food in Budapest.
KARAVAN | More a street food garden than restaurant, Karavan is located alongside Szimpla Kert. Expect the usual food truck treats, including burgers, Mexican, Italian, Hungarian and other fast food. Honestly, there are better places to eat, so don’t waste your time here if you can avoid it!
THE BEST BRUNCH & COFFEE IN THE 7TH DISTRICT
The district is also home to many of the best brunches in Budapest, so we’ve listed our favourites below:
CIRKUSZ
Located on Dob Utca, right in the heart of downtown Budapest is Cirkusz.
A long-time favourite amongst travellers to the 7th District, Cirkusz is perhaps the most popular brunch spot in Budapest, with long lines snaking down Dob Utca (and incidentally, past our house!) a regular occurrence.
The interior is large and bright, and the menu is filled with your usual brunch options, including a large array of savoury options, including their famous eggs benedict (2,700 ft), pulled pork benedict 3,400 ft), and recovery breakfast (4,700 ft), featuring everything you need after a night at Szimpla Kert.
For sweeter options, there are pancakes, waffles, and smoothie bowls.
The coffee here is tasty - Mim thinks it is one of the best in Budapest - they serve their own speciality beans, Bagira, and they also have a range of milk alternatives. The hot chocolate though isn’t the best if you’re not a coffee guy like Mark.
We can’t quite understand the level of hype for Cirkusz, as there are better places in town. However, it’s a good, quality Budapest brunch at an affordable price. One thing to note here is that the staff are excellent - super attentive, and very friendly.
Given the lines that begin from 9 am, Thursday - Sunday, we recommend arriving early, pre 9 am. That, or try to book a table the day before.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dob Utca, 7th District
Opening hours | 8am - 4pm daily
Best for | Pulled pork eggs Benedict, lines
Tips | Book in advance, especially on weekends
DORADO
If you’re after vibes, coffee and simple yet delish brunch options, you can’t go past Dorado.
Run by the beautiful Hungarian-Spanish couple Emese and Mario, Dorado is where the cool kids of Budapest get their coffee, brunch, natural wines, and a side of hipster.
Speciality coffee is their thing and the offerings here are exceptional, so if you’re a coffee fiend, Dorado is your place. The hot chocolate and chai latte are both the best Budapest has to offer.
Their brunch is simple, yet one of our favourites in Budapest.
The avocado toast (1,890 ft) is simple, yet the roasted cherry tomatoes, pomegranate and herbs take it to a whole new level (you can also get it with egg, serrano ham, or both). It’s definitely our go-to brunch option on a lazy weekend.
The Kimchi toast (1,690 ft) is another brunch sensation, with their homemade kimchi served with sour cream and olives. Again, you can add an egg to make it perfect. For a decadent start to the day, the 3-cheese grilled sandwich (1,890 ft) is to die for.
THE DETAILS
Where | Klauzal Utca 35
Opening hours | Monday - Friday: 8:30 - 17:00, Sat: 9:00 - 16:00, Sun: 9:00 - 15:00
Best for | Hipster vibe, outrageous flavours, coffee
KAPTAFA
We’re not going to lie, we visited Kaptafa horribly hungover, and it was the best antidote to a boozy night.
Non-descript in appearance, Kaptafa doesn’t stand out on the frenzied Akácfa Street (famous for the Instant/fogas party complex) in the 7th District, but step inside into the quaint, hip cafe and enjoy a good dose of breakfast classics done with a modern twist.
We recommend the ‘Mr. Molnar’ (2,100 ft), a baguette/brioche type bun (it’s called Molnárka in Hungarian) with creamy scrambled eggs and cheese, served with a side of salad and gherkins. It’s this exact meal that cured Mim’s hangover - the right blend of fats, salts and sugars.
‘Mrs. Molnar’ (2,100 ft) is another delish option, served in the same bun, but with a sunny-side-up egg and bacon.
If you’re after something less heavy, the ‘Where the $#%& am i’ (1,990 ft) is another super tasty option - a poached egg cooked in yoghurt with toast.
After something sweet? You can’t go past the ‘my sweet lord’, sweet french toast in brioche bread with hazelnut spread and banana.
Coffee is always important, and Kaptafa does them well, although like other speciality brunch places in the city, not great.
As with all cafes in Budapest, the space is pretty limited, with a small downstairs area perfect for groups, while there’s a small loft section upstairs to hideaway.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Akácfa u. 37-39
Opening hours | Sun - Thurs: 9am - 3pm, Fri - Sat 9am - 2am
Best for | Hungover breakfasts, eggs
Tips | Arrive early to avoid the crowds
STIKA GASTROPUB
Another hotspot located in the heart of the 7th District (Jewish Quarter) is Stika. The interior belies its position as a brunch hotspot; the industrial interior filled with plants looks more like a hip bar serving amazing cocktails, and while you can get cocktails here, it’s the all-day brunch they’re famous for.
The menu is substantial, and we had trouble choosing between a large variety of eggs benedict (their speciality), and the
We eventually settled on the goat’s cheese benedict, a standard eggs benedict served with goats cheese cream, and the avo benedict.
While the goat’s cheese benedict was really delicious, the avo benedict lacked flavour and punch. The delicious American pancake stack is also delicious if you’re after something sweet.
In terms of coffee, it’s not the best we’ve had in Budapest, but it did the job. If coffee isn’t your jam, there are Hungarian wines and beers available. Or simple OJ.
One negative about Stika is the price - it’s really expensive for Budapest. Expect to pay around €15 per person for a meal and coffee/drink.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dob u. 46/a
Opening hours | 8am - 4pm daily
Best for | Selection of breakfast options, weekend queues
Tips | Arrive early to avoid the crowds
VINYL & WOOD
Vinyl & Wood started out as a small lifestyle shop selling watches made from vinyl records, and other Hungarian designed goods, hence the name. But the focus of owners, Nick, Dani and Tamás was always to create a cool cafe selling awesome coffee, quality brunch, and cookies.
And that’s what they’ve done.
Located in the Jewish District, Vinyl & Wood is everything you’d expect from a brunch cafe located in the hipster part of town - minimalist, with wooden panels, painted brick and pendant lighting. Beyond the interior, the most important part is breakfast, which they do well.
The menu is stacked with all the favourites - scrambled eggs with a variety of accompaniments, a range of toasts (which are sourced next door at Arán Bakery), including the favourite Cubano Toast (bbq pork, Prague ham, Emmental cheese, gherkin), eggs benedict, and for the sweet tooths, french toast or homemade granola.
New wave coffee is served here, although we found it a little bitter - but still tasty.
The overall experience though is awesome here. The staff are friendly, and the vibe is strong - just remember to arrive early to avoid waiting.
THE DETAILS
Where | Wesselényi utca 23
Opening hours | 8:00 - 15:00 daily
Best for | Goats cheese toast
Tips | No booking in advance, so arrive early
To find the best coffee in the district, look no further than our favourites (and always ask for a double - the coffee here is weak!):
Arán Bakery
My Little Melbourne
Coffee stand Dob Utca
THE BEST BARS IN BUDAPEST’S JEWISH QUARTER
Beyond the obvious ruin bars which brought the Jewish District so much notoriety, there are a number of good, local bars which are worthy of your time.
KOLOVES KERT
As the city awakens after a long winter, what we, and most in-the-know locals look forward to most is Kőleves Kert (Kőleves Garden) reopening.
A leafy, laidback garden treasure located on Kazinczy Street, right in the heart of the ‘party district’, Kőleves is a place where anyone is welcome, no matter colour or creed, and it’s this diverse background, and some of the most delightfully friendly staff, that make Kőleves Kert stand out amongst Budapest ruin bars.
The layout is typically Budapest - wide open spaces, pops of colour amongst the ramshackle, a rounded wooden shed that’s also the bar, and a circus-wagon that operates as the kitchen. There are also hammocks for those long, lazy summer afternoons.
Drinks at Kőleves Kert are your standard offerings - beers on tap, as well as craft selections, a wide range of Hungarian wines (the Rosé is always a treat), and a wide selection of affordable cocktails, including the ubiquitous fröccs (Hungarian wine spritzer), and our go-to, Aperol Spritz. All are very reasonably priced - expect to pay around HUF 900 - HUF 2,500.
During the week, it’s worth visiting at lunchtime, as there are weekly lunch specials supplied by next do Kőleves Vendeglo, our favourite restaurant in Budapest. These specials are usually around HUF 1,500 - HUF2,000 and include an entree or dessert, a main, and a lemonade.
In the evenings, there’s a limited menu serving delicious food from next door.
If we could, we’d teleport to a late summer afternoon spent at Kőleves Kert right now - it really is the best ruin bar in Budapest.
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Kazinczy Ut 41
Opening hours | Mon - Sun: 11:30 am - 11 pm
Best for | Garden vibes, friendly staff
Tips | Arrive just after 6 pm to secure a table
BLACK SWAN COCKTAIL BAR
Is The Black Swan Budapest’s best cocktail bar? If it isn’t it should be right up there.
This upscale bar iis located in the heart of the Jewish Quarter, and harks back to yesteryear with its 1920’s theme, dark interior and excellent staff.
The cocktails (starting at HUF 3,990) are exceptional, hitting the right notes everytime. Cocktails we recommend are the Eureka, and excellent mix of spirits, fig, cacao, ginger, orange, and the ever refreshing Lush.
For Negroni lovers, there’s a dedicated vintage room that takes you back to the 1900s, the time of birth of Negroni.
Just be warned, Black Swan can be hard to find, and when you do, remember to ring the doorbell to gain entry!
THE DETAILS
Where | Budapest, Klauzál u. 32
Opening hours | Wed - Sat: 6 pm - 2 am, Sun: 6 pm - 12 am
Tips | Book in advance
TELEP
Where do the cool kids in Budapest go? To Telep, in the heart of Madach Square.
The cheap beer, Berlin-esque interior and leafy outdoor setting means Budapest’s beautiful hipsters seek refuge here during the summer months, living the terrace until it’s overflowing to the streets. Unlike other too-cool-for-school bars, the vibe here is chilled and non-judgmental, and that’s the appeal of Telep - it’s a come one, come all type-place.
On Friday and Saturday nights, DJs spin techno, house and retro beats, and the vibe is always strong.
Other bars which are local, convivial and cheap incude:
FEKETE KUTYA | Super local, with a good range of craft beer on tap. The type of bar to drink away the long winters in. Best to bring cash.
HOTSY TOTSY | Upmarket cocktail bar located in a basement off Sip Street. The industrial interior and exceptional cocktails make it a favourite
KOZPONT | Kospont is located just across the square from Telep, and has a similar vibe. It’s popular with Budapest’s liberal youth, who flock here for cheap beer and techno parties. And to be seen
KISUZEM | A local favourite which attracts all types, Kisuzem feels like an extension of your lounge room - everyone’s welcome, just don’t expect great service
DZZS | Cavernous, cosy dive bar that feels a little like Szimpla Kert would have before the tourism. Colourful, retro, and cheap, with grumpy staff to boot - oh so Budapest!
HOPAHOLIC | If craft beers are your thing, Hopoholic is your place. There are 10 rotating beers on tap, and they also source bottled beers from over 250 microbreweries around the world
MADHOUSE | Located in the uber-cool Anker precinct, Mad House belongs to Hungary’s best craft beer brewery, Mad Scientist. Naturally, it’s all about the craft beers here, but the modern industrial interior is
BUDAPEST JEWISH QUARTER MAP
To make life easier for you guys, we’ve created a map with all the best things to do in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter listed.
To save this map to Google Maps app on your phone, click on the bracket in the upper right corner and save away.
BUDAPEST JEWISH QUARTER TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
OUR BUDAPEST POCKET GUIDE
Our Budapest City Guide is a curated travel guide, designed to be downloaded to your phone and used as your trusty companion when exploring the city. In this comprehensive guide, you’ll find our personal recommendations on the best things to see, eat and drink, places to stay,and things to know, gathered over the two years we spent living in Budapest.
You’ll also find example itineraries to help you make the most of your time there, and plenty of inspiration to guide your travels.
BUY NOW | Purchase the pocket guide here
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN THE BUDAPEST JEWISH QUARTER
We’re not going to sugar coat things - the behaviour we’ve seen in this district is some of the worst we’ve ever seen, anywhere on our travels. Drunk men urinating on the Kazinczy St Synagogue, revellers chanting football songs at 4am, vomit just about everywhere, rubbish strewn across the district every Saturday, Sunday and Monday morning, fights... you name it, we’ve seen it in 2+ years living in this district.
We’re not the fun police, far from it, but when you visit the Jewish Quarter of Budapest, please remember to things:
People live here. Many people, actually; grandmas, families, students...
This used to be the Jewish Ghetto during WW2, meaning thousands of people perished on these very streets
With these two things in mind, please do everything you can to respect the current and previous residents on this district - treat the district as if it were your own.
So by all means, party hard, have the best time ever, and when you leave, be chilled, and act like a decent, functioning human being!
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT BUDAPEST?
Having now lived in Budapest for two years, we can safely say the shoulder seasons of May/June and September/October, are the best times to visit the city.
There are a few reasons for this;
#1 Budapest can get reallllllly busy during the peak summer months, so we recommend coming pre/post the peak season!
#2 The weather in the middle of summer can be a little stifling, so spring/autumn are much more comfortable
#3 It’s certainly cheaper to visit the city outside peak periods
#4 Did we mention the crowds in Summer?
WHAT’S THE CURRENCY IN BUDAPEST
Hungary’s an EU member state, so you’d be forgiven for assuming that they use the Euro as their currency.
Unfortunately, this isn’t the case - Hungary has continued to use its historical currently, the Hungarian Forint, so you’ll need to keep this in mind when you visit.
For reference, 100 Hungarian Forints is generally equal to about £0.25, or €0.30 - you can check the most up to date exchange rate here.
CASH OR CARD IN BUDAPEST?
After spending 6 weeks living in Vienna, we got very used to always carrying cash - it’s like that city only works in notes and coins! So after moving to Budapest, we expected much the same.
Fortunately, you are able to use your card/Apple Pay and almost every single store, restaurant, bar etc. To save on fees, always select to pay in Hungarian Forint on the machine, as this will save you unnecessary exchange fees.
If you need to get cash out, we suggest only doing this at recognised banks, including OTP, K & H, Erste, Budapest Bank, MKB, Raffheisen etc. These banks don’t charge absurd withdrawal fees or poor exchange rates, designed to thieve from unsuspecting tourists.
The EuroNet machines you’ll see all around the city - quite simply, never, ever use a EuroNet machine in Europe - they’re a scam.
HOW TO GET FROM BUDAPEST AIRPORT TO THE JEWISH QUARTER
When we first arrived in Budapest, we feared it’d be another one of those cities where the only way to get into town was via an expensive taxi, or multiple buses.
How wrong we were.
Budapest has a direct airport bus, the 100E, which services Budapest Airport with the city centre (3 seperate stops at Kalvin Square, Astoria, and Deak Ferenc Square), and return.
It takes about 45 mins, and costs HUF 900 (£2.50, €2.90 - tickets purchased outside Airport, or at Deak Ferenc Square) - a super affordable option for any traveller.
From Deak Ferenc Square and Astoria, it’s a five minute walk to the centre of the Jewish Quarter.
Alternatively, download the ride-share app Bolt before you arrive, and organise a registered taxi as you leave the airport. This should cost you around HUF 6,500 - 8,000 (£15 - £20, €18 - €25) and takes around 30 minutes.
We’ve used this service regularly in the city and think of it very highly - the drivers and friendly, helpful and efficient.
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN BUDAPEST
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Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
PLANNING A TRIP TO BUDAPEST SOON?
BUDAPEST TRAVEL GUIDES | 25+ amazing things to do in Budapest, The best Ruin Bars in Budapest, Explore the best of Budapest’s Jewish Quarter, Józsefváros, Budapest’s hipster 8th district, the best brunch in Budapest, and Where to stay in Budapest
BUDAPEST ATTRACTIONS | A guide to Szechenyi Baths, the majestic Fisherman’s Bastion, Gellert Thermal Baths, New York Cafe, Szimpla Kert Ruin Bar, How to visit Dohany St Synagogue, A guide to St. Stephen’s Cathedral
BALATON BLISS | What to see and do on Lake Balaton, and our 3-day guide Balaton
EXPLORE MISKOLC | Enjoy our short city break guide to Miskolc, explore the enchanting forest town of Lillafüred, or discover the Miskolctapolca Cave Baths
AIRBNB GUIDE | Our essential guide to getting the best out of Airbnb
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world? Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
EXPLORE THE BEST OF BUDAPEST WITH OUR GUIDES
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That, and you're officially a legend.