Our Guide to the Wild Island of Kalsoy and Kallur Lighthouse (2023 Guide)

A guide to Kalsoy and the Kallur Lighthouse, Faroe Islands | The Common Wanderer

Known for its wild landscape and the iconic Kallur Lighthouse, the island of Kalsoy is one of the best day trips on the Faroe Islands. This guide contains everything you need to know, from how to get there, what to do and know, and plenty more!


The Faroese island of Kalsoy, with its candy-striped lighthouse perched precariously over raging seas in the shadow of a towering promontory, is definitely one of the iconic images that put the Faroes on the map of many a traveller (ourselves included). 

All soaring peaks, dramatic sheer cliffs, wild beauty, and cosy little villages, this far-flung corner of the world is almost too picturesque to believe.

In fact, Kalsoy is so picture-perfect that it’s found new stardom as a filming location in the James Bond film ‘No Time to Die’.

Honestly, the day we spent on Kalsoy, hiking to the Kallur Lighthouse and exploring the cute town of Mikladalur was one of those ‘pinch-me’ travel days; the ones where you can’t quite believe that you’re actually, really, finally here.

If you’re planning your own bucket list trip to the Faroes, we’ve got everything you need to know about a trip to Kalsoy covered in this guide, including how to get to the island, the Kallur Lighthouse trail and other sightseeing highlights, what to know before you go, plus plenty more.


A GUIDE TO KALSOY AND THE KALLUR LIGHTHOUSE HIKE


KALSOY ISLAND TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

WHERE IS KALSOY?

The long finger-shaped island of Kalsoy stretches from north to south, in the northernmost part of the Faroe Islands archipelago.

The island, which translates to ‘man island’, is wedged between Eysturoy and Kunoy (‘woman island’), and is home to 11 breathtaking valleys, one of the highest promontories in the world, 4 human settlements (Mikladalur, Trøllanes, Húsar, Syðradalur) and the infamous Kallur Lighthouse.

 
 
 

HOW TO GET TO KALSOY

All Kalsoy adventures begin with ferry ride from the town of Klaksvik, the Faroe Islands’ second-largest town, on the island of Borðoy. 

Like much of the Faroes, your journey to (and around) Kalsoy will be made much easier by having a rental car, but it definitely isn’t impossible to see the best of the island entirely by public transport either.

As most travellers tend to stay in Tórshavn and day trip from here, we’ve also included instructions on getting from here to Klaksvik below too:

HOW TO GET TO KLAKSVIK 

By car | From Tórshavn, head north-east on the #10 highway towards Klaksvik. The journey is about 75km / 1.5 hours.

Public transport | The #400 bus is a regular service between Tórshavn and Klaksvik that operates most days. The journey takes about 1.5 hours, and tickets are included in your 4 or 7-day transport pass too.

The full bus schedule can be found here.

HOW TO GET TO KALSOY FROM KLAKSVIK (BY FERRY)

Once you’re in Klaksvik the fun really begins - taking the #56 ferry across to Kalsoy (Syðradalur ferry terminal)!

Depending on when you visit the Faroes, the ferry runs several times throughout the day and the journey time is about 20 minutes.

The full timetable can be found here but in the busier summer months you can safely expect it to run at least 3 times in the morning (6:30am, 8am, and 10am), and 5 times in the afternoon (2:50pm, 4:10pm, 5:15pm, 6:30pm, 10:15pm). 

Now for the super important part: if you’re travelling across with your own car, you’ll need to get to the ferry terminal extremely early, especially in the peak summer months, as the queue begins to fill up very quickly and space on the ferry is limited to about 17 cars.

There are four lanes for car queueing; the first is a locals-only lane, the others are designated for visitors. Simply join the end of the ‘current’ queue being filled, and keep your fingers crossed that you’re within those 17 cars!

If you do happen to be one of the oversubscribed cars, you’ll have to wait for the next ferry over instead.

If you’re travelling across by foot, you won’t need to get to the terminal quite so early, but we do recommend leaving plenty of time still for a stress-free experience. 

KALSOY FERRY PRICE

You’ll pay for your ticket / car as you board or drive onto the ferry (cash only!), and the return ticket prices are as follows: 

Standard car + driver | 160 DKK / £19 / €21 for standard vehicle + driver 

Additional car passengers | 40 DKK  / £4 / €5

Foot passengers | 40 DKK / £4 / €5

Remember to put your ticket somewhere safe so you don’t lose it before your return journey!

Once on board, you can either hang about on the windy deck, or head downstairs to the warmth (there’s also a small vending machine for hot drinks below too).

GETTING BACK TO KLAKSVIK FROM KALSOY 

Once your Kalsoy adventure is over, the journey home is pretty much the same in reverse from Syðradalur. 

Just as in Klaksvik, you’ll want to arrive to the harbour pretty early to ensure that your car is one of the lucky 17 who’ll make it on board. 

The full ferry timetable for the Kalsoy to Klaksvik leg can be found here, but in summer, the service runs once an hour between through the afternoon (2:20pm service) and early evening, with a gap between the 6:50pm and the 10:35pm service back to Klaksvik. 

Depending on what time you get back to Klaksvik, we recommend grabbing a bite to eat at the famous Café Fríða, a cosy cafe overlooking the harbour serving up tasty meals, good coffee, and sweet treats. 

On the ferry from Klaksvik to Kalsoy, Faroe Islands



HOW TO GET AROUND KALSOY

As we’ve mentioned a few times here and in other posts, the Faroes really are the ultimate road trip destination (in fact, read our ultimate Faroe Islands road trip guide here).

That said, we totally get that car rental here can be pricey, and if you’re on a budget this can feel like an overwhelming cost. It is still possible to navigate the whole of the Faroes via public transport, including on Kalsoy, it just takes a little extra planning.

We’ve outlined a few transport options below, including some day trip suggestions for those looking to explore Kalsoy without the hassle of having to organise their transport themselves:

EXPLORING KALSOY BY CAR

Obviously, this is the simplest option; you’ll just follow the instructions above to get on the ferry and navigate your way to the Kalsoy highlights under your own steam.

Watch out for the tunnels - more on those below!

BOOK | Check car rental availability and prices here.

GETTING AROUND KALSOY BY BUS

The Faroes might have end-of-the-world vibes, but they still have a very Scandinavian approach to life, which means a decent public transport network. There is a bus on Kalsoy servicing all four of the main settlements and runs fairly regularly throughout the day.

See the bus timetable here.

You’ll need to keep a close eye on your timing to make sure you don’t miss your ferry, but it’s still a great option for those looking to save some cash.

GUIDED DAY TOUR

If you’d prefer to have someone else look after the finer details, there are also plenty of guided day trips available for Kalsoy, many of which include pick-up in Tórshavn.

This 5-hour tour is a quick and easy way to see the best of the Island. Alternatively, this 8-hour excursion takes in all the major sights, at a slower, more enjoyable pace!

We highly suggest booking a day tour - it’s the safest, easiest and most efficient way of seeing the island.

Browse day trips here

BOOK | This epic 5-hour tour

 

 

THINGS TO DO ON KALSOY, FAROE ISLANDS

HIKE TO THE KALLUR LIGHTHOUSE 

The Kallur Lighthouse (also referred to as the Kalsoy Lighthouse) is the island’s most famous drawcard; a candy-striped lighthouse perched on a rocky outcrop in the shadow of an impossibly tall and steep splinter of land surging up from the sea. 

Coupled with the cawing of seabirds and the fierce, salty winds that blow across the ridgelines, it’s wildly impressive and a true photographer’s delight. 

In terms of difficulty, length, and conditions, the hike to the Kallur Lighthouse was one of the easier hikes we did on the Faroe Islands, but it does come with a unique set of challenges, most of which are inclement weather-related.

First though, to hike the Kallur Lighthouse trail, you’ll first need to navigate your way to the start of the trailhead, about 30-minute drive from the Syðradalur ferry terminal. 

If you have a car | From the Kalsoy car ferry terminal at Syðradalur, drive the 15km to the village of Trøllanes where the trailhead of the Kalsoy Lighthouse can be found. You will need to navigate some snaking roads and the infamous Kalsoy tunnels - so drive carefully! 

By public transport | The #506 public bus (more like a minivan) meets the ferry at Syðradalur and for 20Kr each way, will transport you to Trøllanes for your hike (keep an eye on time!), then back to the terminal again for the return journey.

Check bus timetables here, and those with a 4 or 7-day Faroes transport pass will be pleased to know they can use these here too

The Common Wanderer_-38.jpg
 

Once you’ve made it to Trøllanes by car or bus, head left from the village and look for the little red gate which marks the start of your trail. On a clear day in particular, it’s a fairly simple hike from here to the main attraction.

Follow the grassy trail that cuts through sloping green farmland dotted with sheep, bearing right (not the trail that takes you up and over the large hill - that’s most definitely the wrong way, and won’t get you to the lighthouse). You’ll see the lighthouse ahead of you through much of the hike, so it’s very much a case of putting one foot in front of the other till you get there. 

We hiked to the Kallur Lighthouse on a clear, sunshiny day, and the main hazards we encountered were curious sheep, lots of their poop, and the odd dried stream to jump over. That said, the trail can often be wet, muddy, and engulfed in thick fog, so you’ll need to keep your wits about you if that’s the case, book a local guide if you know the weather in advance, and be prepared to turn back if visibility gets too poor.  

Once you’ve reached the lighthouse, you can either stop here to rest and celebrate your achievements, or head further along the narrow spine of land to where the most iconic view of the lighthouse, steep green meadows, and rugged cliffs can be found.

As previously mentioned, you’ll also need to assess whether it’s safe to continue to this ridgeline as the winds here are particularly ferocious, the knife’s-edge trail extremely narrow and lacking any protective railings to protect you from the steep inclines on both sides. For context, we visited on a pretty mild but gusty day, and there were a few times that we both dropped to the ground for safety after an unexpectedly strong gust came barrelling through.

There are actually a few viewpoints fanning out from the lighthouse, so be sure to factor in some extra time to explore the surrounds too.

We visited Kalsoy and hiked to the lighthouse on a tour and had a brilliant day. He’s a local sporting legend and his tours are also more affordable than any others we’ve seen online. We highly recommend booking with him, if you’re keen to take a guided tour of the island! Otherwise, the above can be done independently quite easily - as long as you don’t take unnecessary risks!

THE DETAILS 

Distance | 4-5km round trip

Time | Roughly 30-45 minutes each way

Toilets | Can be found in Trøllanes

Fitness level | Easy hike, but those with knee or general mobility issues may struggle due to the sideways incline of the path. You may want to bring hiking poles along to assist with balance

BOOK | This 8 hour Kalsoy and Kallur Lighthouse tour

Walking to the famous Kallur lighthouse on Kalsoy


VISIT THE TOWN OF MIKLADALUR AND THE MERMAID STATUE 

Unfortunately by the time we reached the town of Mikladalur we were actually starting to run out of time to make it back to the ferry and couldn’t spend as much time as we liked here. 

Dotted with colourful turf-roofed houses and hjallur drying sheds (wooden outhouses used to wind-dry mutton, or Skerpikjøt), Mikladalur is a charming little village overlooking the bay and island of Kunoy in the distance.

Known for both its skilled craftsmen and artists, and its bountiful seas that fuelled the local fishing industry for years, it’s a really cute town to wander through if you have more time than we did.

But there’s also another reason Mikladalur is well-known, especially amongst visitors, and that’s for the beautiful statue of Kópakonan, the Seal Woman (also known as a Selkie, the Faroe Islands version of a mermaid), perched above a waterfall by the village shore.

There’s a centuries-old legend of her kidnap by a local fisherman, an ensuing heartbreak, and her later revenge on the local community.

For the full story, click here.

The mermaid statue in Mikladalur, Faroe Islands

 

DRIVE THROUGH THE KALSOY TUNNELS 

Tunnels are an essential part of life here in the Faroes; their presence has been able to connect communities otherwise inaccessible other than by foot, and for the most part they’re pretty slick, well-lit, and modern.

That’s not the case on Kalsoy though, where the tunnels are as close to roughly chiselled rock as the day they were first blasted away in the ‘80s. The tunnels here are one-way, dimly-lit, damp and quite narrow, which makes for quite the adventure to drive through.

There are turning out lanes every 100 metres or so, but be sure you’ve got your lights on, drive carefully, and know where those turnouts are (generally marked by blue and white ‘M’ signs opposite each turnout).

Some tunnels also hold more secrets than others; like the secret passage our guide Pól showed us that opened out to an epic view over the valley below - though sadly we can't remember which tunnel, or where it was now!


TAKE A JAMES BOND TOUR OF KALSOY 

Kalsoy, and Trøllanes in particular, was one of the filming locations for the James Bond ‘No Time to Die’ film - which isn’t entirely surprising given its untouched natural beauty, winding roads (perfect for a car chase scene!), and breathtaking mountains. 

For buffs of all things shaken not stirred, you can actually join a tour of all of the key filming locations, visit some of the cottages and trails used, and hear stories from filming on the island.

The price tag isn’t cheap, but neither is James Bond’s lifestyle, right? 

Ps. this is where Bond died… so you kind of have to visit, right?

BOOK | James Bond Kalsoy tour

Mark very happy at the edge of the Faroe Islands

THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT KALSOY + THE KALLUR LIGHTHOUSE HIKE 

We’ve already written a super comprehensive guide to everything you should know about visiting the Faroe Islands more generally, but there are a few specific Kalsoy-related tidbits that we think you should know before you make the trip over:

NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE WEATHER CONDITIONS

Of all the windswept places we visited in the Faroe Islands, it was Kalsoy and the Kallur Lighthouse that definitely brought the most risks.

Fog rolls in with a moments notice, the winds can be ferocious, and if you’ve hiked the narrow slip of land just beyond the lighthouse, you know it really wouldn’t take much to blow you right off the edge on a blustery day. 

And this isn’t a moment of exaggeration or over-caution either - just a couple of weeks before our own arrival, an experienced local farmer from a family who had lived here for generations had become disoriented in fog and died after slipping over the edge of the 400m-high cliff.

Erring on the side of caution here is always advised.

DRONE AT YOUR OWN RISK 

The winds around Kallur Lighthouse can be next level and were definitely too strong for us to send our drone up when we visited.

Plenty of people do manage to have better luck than us and get some great drone footage while here, but on the whole it’s pretty risky thanks to unexpected gusts and changes in wind direction. 

Basically, if you decide to send your drone skyward, know that you might not see if ever again.

DON’T PUT YOUR, OR OTHERS, LIVES IN DANGER FOR INSTAGRAM

We were shocked to hear a local describing an incident he’d witnessed around the lighthouse just a few weeks prior, when he’d happened upon a group of young guys hanging, one-handed, off the cliff’s edge for an Instagram photo. 

Don’t think we really need to tell you how dangerous it is to hang off a rocky, windswept ledge hundreds of metres above the ocean - but just in case, don’t risk your life, or that of other people who might try to come to your aid, for the sake of a social media app or a thrill. 

Life’s short enough as it is!

WEAR STURDY BOOTS 

These are an absolute must for any Faroe Islands travel anyway, given that the hiking paths can be muddy, narrow, and slippery at times. You’ll need something with a decently thick sole and good ankle support, especially when deftly testing the reflexes in avoiding the seemingly-endless amounts of sheep poo!

We pretty much lived in our trusty Danner hiking boots for the entirety of our trip.

PACK SOME LUNCH AND SNACKS 

There’s only a small kiosk in Trøllanes, which seemed to be closed the time we visited it, and we didn’t really come across any other cafes or kiosks during our time on Kalsoy.

If you’re planning to spend a whole day on the island, definitely bring a packed lunch, whatever snacks, and plenty of water (in your reusable water bottle, of course - like our faves from The Grayl!) to avoid any potential hangry-ness! 

 
On the roads of Kalsoy, Faroe Islands
 

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FOR KALSOY + THE KALLUR LIGHTHOUSE 

For the best shots of the Kallur Lighthouse against the towering promontory behind, we recommend bringing along a wide-angle lens (this 16-35mm is the one we used).

It really is the only way you’re going to be able to capture the true scale of the scene in front of you! Check this post for the full details of our camera kit. 


TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR KALSOY AND THE FAROE ISLANDS

We firmly believe that if you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the 2020/2021 pandemic has taught many; things can go wrong anywhere in the world and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.

In a place like the Faroes, where inclement weather and cancellations are aplenty, it’s even more vital.

For all travellers | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out of pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.

For digital nomads | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.

Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy

READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance


WHERE TO STAY IN THE FAROE ISLANDS

We stayed in Tórshavn for much of our time in the Faroes, and simply did day trips from there. We stayed in both of the following options:

  • Hotel Tórshavn, right in the centre of town - a clean, basic hotel and good base for exploring. Book here

  • Havgrim Seaside hotel - a beautiful little boutique hotel that's been around since 1948 but recently refurbished. It's just past the harbour, with some pretty epic sea views. And a deliciously tasty breakfast buffet (excuse us while we drool a little!). Book here

If you’re looking to spend a little longer in this part of the Faroes, we recommend using Kalsoy, where the ferry to Kalsoy leaves from, are your base instead.

AIRBNB | We’ve also written a guide to the best airbnbs in the Faroe Islands if you’re looking for a more budget-friendly, flexible option. Read the guide here.


PLANNING TO VISIT THE FAROE ISLANDS SOON?

We have a heap of essential reading before visiting the Faroe Islands:

FAROE ISLANDS INSPIRATION | Our complete Faroe Islands itinerary and road trip guide, Our guide to the best things to see and do in the Faroe Islands, What to know about visiting the Faroe Islands,

FAROESE ATTRACTIONS | Our guide to Lake Sørvágsvatn, A day trip guide to Mykines island, and the ultimate guide to Kalsoy and the Kallur Lighthouse, A guide to the Faroe Islands’ quirky capital city

ACCOMMODATION IN THE FAROES | Our guide to the best airbnbs in the Faroe Islands

FAROE ISLANDS PHOTOGRAPHY | The beauty of the Faroe Islands in photos

PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world? Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and friends travel more consciously around the globe

ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials


 

DISCOVER THE FAROES WITH OUR USEFUL GUIDES

 

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That, and you're officially a legend. 


Our time in the Faroe Islands was also made possible by Visit Faroe Islands - but as always, all the experiences, opinions, and musings shared here are very much our own!