Lake Balaton: A Guide to Hungary’s Favourite Summer Playground
No trip to Hungary in summer is complete without a visit to Lake Balaton. From world-class wineries to the best beaches, ancient towns to gourmet restaurants, this guide covers all the best things to see, eat, and do in Balaton
When the sun begins to warm the streets of Hungary and little pops of colour bloom among the green, there’s one phrase you’ll hear on every local’s lips: Lake Balaton.
Ironically for a landlocked nation in Europe’s centre, life between May to September revolves almost entirely around this huge stretch of water in the heart of the country.
Conversations with locals about summer weekend plans inevitably lead to Balaton, pictures of reeds and calm waters would fill our social media feeds, and come Friday afternoon, locals seemed to evaporate from Budapest's streets only to reappear again, bronzed and zen, on Monday morning.
It turns out, weekends at Balaton are spent along splashing along the shores of the long pepper-shaped lake (ironic, given that the national spice is Paprika) or sipping wine in the volcanic hills of Badaconsy, and a fierce, mostly tongue-in-cheek debate is had over which side of the lake is better (the northern, obviously).
A Balaton summer is a sacred ritual for every Hungarian.
But while those long, slow summer days spent lakeside dwell in the Hungarian DNA, the area remains almost unknown amongst foreign tourists.
It even took the two of us 12 months and a 2020 restriction on international travel for Balaton to finally lure us to her shores, and when we first laid eyes on her volcanic hills and reed-lined turquoise lake, we knew what a shame it was that we hadn’t made it there sooner.
From the fertile grape-growing hills of Badacsony, replete with wineries and world-class dining, to the mediterranean vibes of rustic stone villages and lavender fields, plus the promise of lazy lake days or plenty of hiking, biking, or shopping till one drops, there are so many wonderful things for curious travellers to do around Balaton.
If you’re planning travels to Hungary during the summer months, we implore you to look beyond the delights of the capital and add a few days in Balaton to your Hungarian travel itinerary too. To help with your travel planning, we’ve put together our favourite things to do around northern Balaton, based on the 7 days we spent there!
THINGS TO DO IN NORTH BALATON
WHERE IS LAKE BALATON
Lake Balaton is in central Hungary, and the easternmost tip of the lake is about an hour’s drive southwest from downtown Budapest. This guide focuses on the Balaton Felvidek (Balaton Uplands) area, which is another 30-60 minutes drive past this point.
Balaton’s popularity with locals stems partially from its proximity to the nation’s capital. In next to no time, you can escape the old, concrete streets of Budapest and find yourself a world away, walking amongst rustic vineyards and sipping crisp white wine with the most spectacular views.
The lake is the largest in central Europe and stretches for 77km in total, with a surface area of 598 square km.
We’ve included a map of the best things to do in Lake Balaton below:
WHERE TO STAY IN BALATON
We based ourselves on the outskirts of Balatonfüred at Kőkövőn Vendégáz and we can’t recommend it enough.
Our apartment was a delight in itself, but the grounds took it to a whole new level; a fairylight-draped rustic barn, beautifully landscaped gardens, sweet grapevines and fig trees, and the loveliest hosts possible.
Opting for a base in the wine region around Badacsony and Szent György-Hegy would be ideal if you’re looking to stay closer to wineries and hiking, biking, and outdoor activities.
Our recommendations are:
LEYA’S COTTAGE | A cosy studio in Badacsonytomaj with easy lake access, on the doorstep of wineries on the hill and with bikes available too.
BOOK | Leya’s Cottage
ITT ÉS MOST, SZENTGYÖRGYHEGY| A beautifully renovated traditional press house in the Balaton Uplands National Park, on the magnificent St. George's Hill.
THE BEST THINGS TO SEE AND DO AT LAKE BALATON
#1 RELAX AT A BALATON BEACH (STRAND)
As you’ll discover throughout this post, there are so many wonderful things to do around Lake Balaton that you could easy spend a week here without even venturing to the water itself.
But to ignore this sacred part of a Hungarian summer would be a mistake, especially on scorching afternoons when the cool turquoise lake sparkles with promises to soothe away the prickly heat on your skin.
Most Balaton strands (beaches) are reminiscent of a nostalgic summer polaroid; calm waters fringed by golden reeds, wobbly jetties stretching like fingers into the water, groups of leathery sun worshippers or youngsters sleeping off hangovers sprawled on towels under trees.
Relics from communist times are still scattered about in parts (Balaton was the ultimate summer riviera destination for those living in the eastern bloc); squat, blocky pavilions serve greasy food and ice creams, while concrete promenades are a no-fuss affair.
BALATONEDERICS | Idyllic and leafy, with retro bathing boxes and a mostly local vibe, Balatonederics was by far our favourite strand! Entry is 900ft (£2.30), and it was an extremely peaceful setting to reconnect with nature, swim, and relax with a book.
SUPs and pedalo boats are available for hire too.
CSOPAK | A popular stretch not far from Balatonfüred, Csopak is a lot more developed and popular, with a few restaurants and bars scattered along and much noisier crowds (read: groups of excited teenagers!).
We still had a lovely day there though.
TIP | Strands normally cost between 500-900 ft, but outside the peak season you’ll often find that you can access them for free. Another reason to travel during the shoulder season!
#2 WANDER THE PRETTY STREETS OF TIHANY
The gorgeously rustic town of Tihany could have been plucked straight from the lavender fields of Provence or Dalmatia and dropped right here, on the peninsula of the same name that juts 5km into Lake Balaton.
The postcard image of Tihany is that of the 11th-century Benedictine Abbey and its promenade, perched dramatically atop the peninsula. Far below, the lake looks as turquoise and inviting as any tropical shores, dotted with little sailboats breezing to and fro.
It’s a beautiful sight, and definitely not something to miss on your Lake Balaton itinerary. However, we felt that Tihany’s real charm lay in its historic streets, lovely thatched-roof cottages, and rustic rural feel.
All it takes to escape the maddening summer crowds is a few ‘wrong’ turns off the promenade to find yourself in an entirely peaceful, charming world of yesteryear.
Add to that the town’s local lavender growing traditions and the ever-present waft of the flower through the warmer months, and you can understand how it earned itself the nickname ‘Tündérsziget’ or ‘fairy island’.
Just be sure to head back to the main street for a famous lavender ice cream, to browse the Lavender House, and pick up some local pottery from the quaint House of Pottery (we’re currently looking at our little Tihany jug right now) before you leave!
THE DETAILS
Where | Tihany, Lake Balaton
#3 GO BACK IN TIME AT SZIGLIGET CASTLE
On the northern shores of Lake Balaton, the medieval Szigliget Castle (Szigligeti vár) is an unmistakable feature of the landscape.
Crowning the shell of an ancient volcano, the castle has stood sentinel over the lake and the fertile Tapolca basin for more than 750 years, bearing witness to numerous invasions, battles, and the rise and fall of empires.
After withstanding repeated attacks by Tatar and Ottoman armies, the whims of various aristocratic families who owned it, and the destructive Austrian takeover, it was a strike of lightning and subsequent fire in the 18th century that finally finished this mighty castle off.
After years of neglect and slow ruin, a recent renovation in 2019/2020 has restored sections of the castle to glory, and now it’s a great place to wander through, admire one of the best views of Lake Balaton, or find a quiet spot to sit and contemplate the lives of all those who walked, fought, lived and loved within these walls over the last 750 years.
Entrance to the castle is 1000 HUF per person and cash only - don’t be caught out like we were on our first attempt! To get to the site requires a steep(ish) walk up the hill, but an easy enough task for anyone with reasonable fitness and mobility.
We’d recommend heading up later in the day when the golden hour light illuminates the fields and lake beyond, and giving yourself at least an hour to explore properly.
THE DETAILS
Where | Szigliget Castle
Cost | 1000 HUF - CASH ONLY
#4 DISCOVER THE WINE SCENE IN BADACSONY
The volcanic hills of northern Balaton aren't just pretty to look at; they’re also home to some of the richest, most fertile grape growing ground in the entire country.
Grapes have been grown in these rich soils since Roman times, and though it isn’t necessarily well-known beyond Hungary’s borders these days (the latter half of last century certainly left scars on Hungary’s wine production), the wine scene is absolutely brilliant.
Here, vines hang heavy with sweet fruit, and row after row lavender and sunflowers line the road. Rustic limestone cottages are scattered along the hillside, while cellar doors offer up mouthwatering gourmet fare. It’s truly idyllic, and most definitely rivals the famous fields of Tuscany, Provence, and Dalmatia any day.
If you’re visiting in summer, keep an eye out for the Szent Gyorgy Hegy until midnight event, where vineyards open their doors and welcome guests for a fun night of music, wine, food, and fun.
SIP WINE AT LAPOSA BIRTOK
The Laposa name is synonymous with wine in Balaton; the family have been producing it in the area for generations. If there’s one place that best encapsulates the Badacsony wine region, it’s their sunny terrace at Laposa Birtok on the south side of Szent Gyorgy-Hegy.
Flanked by green vines and a breathtaking panoramic view over the vineyards and Lake Balaton, this is where you want to spend a lingering late summer afternoon. We spent a lovely couple of hours here ourselves, sipping crisp rosé and olaszrizling, and snacking on local cheese served with fresh-baked warm bread and thick, rich olive oil.
Prices here are slightly more than at other wineries in the area — but when you’re still only talking about £8.50 for a 6-wine tasting, £1.50 for a glass of rosé, and £9 for a tasty cheese board, we’re definitely not complaining.
Definitely book ahead of time if you’re visiting during high season!
THE DETAILS
Where | Laposa Birtok, Badacsonytomaj
When | 11am - 7pm every day.
DRINK IN THE VIEWS AT SZASZI BIRTOK
The family-run, organic and eco-friendly Szaszi Birtok came very highly recommended to us by both locals and fellow travellers alike, and we’re very glad we added it to our list.
Our Szaszi experience began at the small wine bar, a collection of picnic tables scattered under leafy green trees, where we relaxed with a wine each and enjoyed the golden hour views over the Estate before heading up to the rustic terrace for dinner.
Scattered with olive trees and blooms and looking out over one of Lake Balaton's best sunset views, the Szaszi Birtok terrace was best described by our waiter who commented that this was “our Provence”.
We found ourselves wanting to linger here enjoying the cicadas and gentle late-summer breeze long after the last tasty morsels of food had been wiped clean from our plates.
With a focus on seasonal locally-sourced ingredients, the menu offering is small but delicious (the grilled tomato salad is a must!).
Prices here are extremely reasonable: a starter, 2 mains, 1 dessert, 2 wines, and brilliantly friendly service came to a total of just £36.
THE DETAILS
Where | Szaszi Birtok, Hegymagas
When | 12pm - 9:30pm, Thursday - Sunday
SKIZO WINE BAR, BADACSONYTÖRDEMIC
A blink-and-you’ll-miss-it (except on a Saturday afternoon when the crowds milling about give it away!) wine bar on the leafy cobblestoned main street in Badacsonytördemic, Skizo wine bar was one of our favourite discoveries during our time in Balaton.
Located in what was once a traditional Badacsonytördemic house, Skizo Wine is the offering of young local winemaker Balázs Sike. And oh boy, does he produce a good drop of vino!
With a super trendy vibe and a gorgeous front terrace beckoning you to settle in and lose track of time, Skizo is the perfect place to sample some brilliant wine, nibble on tasty finger food, and soak up some sun.
We recommend both their rosés, (we had and loved both their offerings) and the lavender soda cocktail with Sauvignon blanc or rosé.
We loved being here so much we went back again the following day for another cocktail — and of course, to pick up a bottle or two of wine to enjoy at home!
Pricewise, it’s extremely affordable: cocktails are 950 HUF (£2.50), glasses of wine around 600 HUF (£1.55), and bottles of wine between 1600 - 3000 HUF (£4 - 7.50).
THE DETAILS
Where | Skizo Wine Bar, Badacsonytördemic, Szent István u. 24
#5 HIKE AND BIKE IN BADACSONY
The Badacsony area is also held dear to the hearts of outdoor lovers, cyclists, and hikers alike; the famous national Kéktúra (Blue Trail), Europe’s oldest long-distance hiking trail passes through here, and the hills are abuzz every day with those getting outside and enjoying the scenery, fresh air, and chance to stretch their legs.
We spent much of our Balaton trip here in Badacsony, and definitely recommend you do too.
Whether you’re planning to lose yourself on some trails or meander your way from winery to winery by foot or pedal, it’s full of greenery and rustic charm.
Find some of the best hiking and biking around Badacsony and surrounds here. Most accommodation provides bicycles for rent - alternatively, they’re available for hire from most main towns in the region.
#6 VISIT THE PRETTY LENGYEL CHAPEL
Perched on the southern side of Szent Gyorgy-Hegy and flanked by rows of lush grapevines, the pretty Lengyel Chapel (Lengyel Kapola) is one of our favourite places to visit around Balaton.
Built in 1760 by the Toti Lengyel family, the prominent and wealthy landholding Barons of the time, the chapel’s sunshiny yellow facade stands out from the lines of green surrounding it, beckoning visitors from miles away.
While the chapel also contains a large collection of historically important Baroque-Rococo features, the panoramic views towards Szigliget and Lake Balaton were, in our view anyway, the best reason to visit.
Next to the chapel, the yellow facade of the Tarányi press house is another instantly recognisable feature of the landscape, built in the same era by the same family.
After falling into wrack and ruin, the estate was purchased in 2017 and returned to its former Baroque glory with the opening of the Tarányi Restaurant and event space. Once you’re done exploring the surrounding vines and chapel, it’s a great spot to relax and recharge with a good local wine and some tasty food!
THE DETAILS
Where | Lengyel Chapel, Hegymagas
#7 EXPLORE THE ANCIENT TOWN OF TAPOLCA
Just 10km from Badacsony in the western Balaton Uplands, the pretty medieval town of Tapolca is nestled in the heart of the fertile plains of the Tapolca Basin. It’s probably also best known for what’s hidden beneath its streets.
The Tapolca Cave network is a 14 million-year-old system that stretches kilometres below the town centre. It was discovered 100 years ago, and these days you can rent a boat and explore the waters that flow underground.
The experience lasts about 15 minutes, and if you’re keen to do this yourself we recommend booking well in advance as it can become extremely busy during the peak season.
For us however, the real charm of Tapolca lay in wandering around the Tapolca old town area, especially around the fairytale-esque Malom-to (mill pond).
The cosy square nestled around the pond is full of colourful medieval buildings, a water wheel from the 13th century, and plenty of cute eateries and restaurants perfect for a coffee or meal while soaking up the atmosphere.
THE DETAILS
Where | Tapolca Lake Cave, Tapolca
When | 9:30am - 4pm every day
BOOK | Book your ticket here
#8 WANDER THE FAMOUS BALATONFÜRED PROMENADE (TAGORE SETANY)
The town of Balatonfüred is the oldest settlement in the Balaton area — and definitely its most elegant and stylish.
This was the main journey point for the European aristocracy in the 18th and 19th centuries, and their large villas and ornately decorated buildings still line the leafy cobblestoned streets today.
It also seems to be where the wealthy and beautiful like to congregate, judging by the Maserati, Ferrari, and Porsche that all drove past our our breakfast spot within about 5 minutes of each other!
Tagore Promenade (Tagore Sétány) — named after the Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore who was cured at Balatonfüred’s Cardiology hospital and planted the first of many famous trees along the promenade in thanks — is definitely the centre of all the action, and seems to be a favourite with everyone young and old.
Happy children feed ducks with doting grandparents, old men busk with accordions, cyclists weave between couples walking arm in arm.
Admittedly, it is a lovely place to go for a stroll; cafes and little shops line the walk with views over the pale blue lake, while sailing boats bob up and down at the harbour and gulls soar overhead.
THE DETAILS
Where | Tagore Promenade, Balatonfüred
#9 VISIT THE LILIOMKERT WEEKEND MARKET
A visit to rustic Liliomkert Piac, the outrageously popular weekend farmers market and bazaar located in the small town of Káptalantóti, is absolutely one of the best things to do at Lake Balaton.
With a focus on local, sustainable and organic produce, Liliomkert features an eclectic mix of food, flowers, antiques, handcrafted goods. It also attracts everyone from grandmas to hipsters, so it makes for a great people-watching spot too.
Grab yourself breakfast from one of the many local bakers and chefs, or enjoy some traditional Hungarian cuisine from one of the many pop up food stalls.
Seek out a bargain or two, whether it be handmade olive oil soaps or a fresh bottle of naturally produced wine before settling under the trees to listen to a local musician.
THE DETAILS
Where | Liliomkerti Piac, Káptalantóti, Petofi utca 13
When | Saturdays 8am - 12pm, Sundays 7am - 2pm
Getting there | Get to Káptalantóti, then turn right at Petofi utca. You can’t miss it - it's a hive of activity!
#10 REJUVENATE YOURSELF AT LAKE HÉVÍZ
Now, we’re pretty sure that the median age for a day trip to Lake Hévíz is somewhere around 70, but bear with us. Hévíz is a spa town centred around its famous lily-filled warm lake, the largest natural geothermal swimming pool in the world.
Hévíz has been in use since Roman times and is extremely rich in minerals purported to have healing properties for rheumatic diseases, post-operative care, and other degenerative conditions. In fact, this is where many survivors came to rest and recuperate following the end of World War II.
We visited on a weekday and may have been the youngest people in the complex by at least a few decades, but Mark (aka the oldie out of the two of us…!) swears that all the constant aches and pains of his bad back melted away after our paddle and float in the pool. How can you argue with that?!
The complex itself is huge, and a 3-hour pass will set you back around €10 per person. There are changing rooms, showers, and massage / treatments available for booking too.
Would we go out of our way to come here if we had limited time? Probably not, but for those with a bit more time (or aches and pains to deal with!) it’s a peaceful enough morning.
THE DETAILS
Where | Lake Hévíz
When | 9am - 5pm each day
Cost | 3-hour pass costs 3,500 HUF (€10 / £9)
#11 VISIT KESZTHELY AND THE FESTETICS PALACE
Not far from Lake Hévíz is the elegant town of Keszthely, the largest on Lake Balaton and often referred to as the capital of the region.
This city on the western end of the lake is very much a hub for culture; its crumbling mansions and rustic main squares belie it’s formerly grand aristocratic roots. Most Hungarians can recall childhood days spent at the galleries and museum here, especially on grey, rainy days when lake swimming isn’t so appealing.
One of Keszthely’s main attractions though, is the 18th-century Festetics Palace, a beautiful Baroque-style palace with elegantly manicured gardens.
Built over a hundred years by the Festetics family, one of Hungary’s most noble and wealthy families during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it’s an impressive, romantic-looking palace that’s definitely worthy of your visit.
If you’re more organised than we were and don’t arrive within an hour of closing time (oops!), you can take a guided tour of the palace interior and coach museum. We’d definitely recommend doing so, as the intricately decorated ballroom and library are absolutely stunning! The gardens are free to wander and are open later than the palace interior.
If you're looking for more things to do around Keszthely, there’s also the Balaton Muzeum, a model railway museum, plenty of strands to relax at, and the main promenade with a ferris wheel - just to name a few!
THE DETAILS
Where | Festetics Palace, Pollack Mihály tér 3, Kezthely
When | 9am - 5pm, Mon - Fri
Cost | 2900 ft (€8 / £7) per person for Festetics Palace and carriage museum tour.
Palace grounds are free to access.
#12 EXPLORE LAKE BALATON’S VOLCANIC HISTORY
Looking out over northern Balaton’s gently rolling hills today, it’s hard to imagine how this pretty landscape could ever have looked any different. But go back 10+ million years to when dinosaurs roamed freely, and this region was dramatic and fiery; dotted with giant bubbling volcanoes spewing ash and lava, and a simmering inland sea.
As we mentioned above, this geological heritage gifted Hungary the fertile volcanic soil so perfect for its winegrowing — but beyond the wineries and the thermal lakes, it also left behind a number of interesting features in the landscape that are worth checking out too.
Geology buffs (or simply those looking for an interesting hike), can take the Szent György Hill Basalt Organ Study Trail, a four-kilometre long round route that starts at the former mine yard of Raposka.
The hill was formed about 3-4 million years ago and the trail weaves past a number of formations, including the columns of the fairy-like Basalt pipe organs.
Alternatively, if hiking isn’t your thing, a trip to Hegyestű Geológiai Bemutatóhely (Needle Hill), a partially excavated former volcano that was once also a mining site. Here, you can explore the basalt structures and admire the beautiful panorama of Lake Balaton, Tihany Peninsula, Káli and Tapolca Basin.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN THE BALATON UPLANDS
#13 BRUNCH AT VANKOS
We have to admit that this beautiful Provençal building in Badacsonyörs initially caught our eye on Instagram - and this is one spot that definitely lives up to the insta-hype.
This beautifully rustic stone farmhouse turned guesthouse and cafe more than 100 years old has been given new life, with white and sage trimmings, little garden bistro table and chairs, and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere to enjoy your morning coffee in.
The service was wonderful, the food was delicious and sourced from local, organic providers in the area. This was also one of the only places in Balaton we found that also had veggie options for breakfast, which is definitely rare to find in this meat-centric part of the world!
Prices are extremely reasonable; a coffee, a shakshuka and eggs florentine, and a fresh orange juice were £11.50 (yes, you just read that right!);.
Vankos (which, fun fact, means ‘pillow’ in Hungarian) also has six unique guest rooms to book for overnight stays, which you can check out here.
THE DETAILS
Where | Vankos, Badacsonyörs, Füredi u. 29
When | Cafe open 9am - 1pm
BOOK | Book rooms at Vankos here
#14 FEAST ON HUNGARY’S BEST TACOS AT TACO TRUCK
The last thing we expected to find on a random main road in Balaton was a too-cool taco truck serving up some of the best vegan burritos and tacos we’ve ever had but well, here we are.
Nestled into the foothills of Szigliget (next to the carpark for the castle), the Taco Truck has become something of an institution in the area. We’re not ashamed to admit we visited twice in two days, and both times it was extremely busy, both with motorists and the thousands of cyclists pedalling along the Balaton bike circuit too.
Having not been able to find much in the way of vegetarian/vegan options in pretty much the whole of the Balaton area (always a disadvantage of being veggie in a meat-obsessed country!), our eyes lit up at the sight of their vegan walnut and jackfruit taco and burrito selections — and our mouths barely stopped watering when they finally arrived.
Vibrant with colour, freshly-made (including homemade corn tortillas!), and absolutely delicious, the food here really is worth making the stop for — and we agree with the proclamation by one local we chatted to that these were "the best tacos in the whole of Hungary”.
The truck also serves sweet homemade lemonade plus beer and wine, best consumed while lazing on some of its quirky and eclectic deck furniture. Bonus points for its commitment to reducing plastic waste, with eco-friendly wooden cutlery, trays, and reusable cups!
#15 BREAKFAST AT KEDVES CUKRASZDA
About halfway down one of Balatonfüred’s most elegant and well-known streets, leafy Blaha Lujza utca, you’ll find Kedves Cukraszda serving up what they do best: sweet treats and decent coffee.
We visited for breakfast after getting a little hangry exploring Balatonfüred. Vegetarian options are somewhat limited, though that’s more a reflection of Hungary more broadly, so we opted for the salmon and egg bagel and scrambled eggs, both of which were tasty and good fuel for the day.
The only major downside is that the leafy cobblestoned street is still in use for vehicles and relatively narrow, so when sitting at one of the outdoor tables be prepared to cheers a passing car every now and then.
THE DETAILS
Where | Kedves Cukraszda, Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza u. 7
When | 8am - 6pm every day
#16 DINNER AT NEKED FOZTEM
Located in the picturesque village of Zánka, Neked Foztem Gasztrokocsma is a bit of a local institution (tip: there’s also another at Balatonfüred, but this has way more vibe).
Overlooking vineyards at the foot of a historic church, Neked Foztem has a beautiful terrance upon which you can enjoy a slow, considered dinner, best paired with local wines.
The food is great on account of using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and a traditional Hungarian kitchen approach. But the real drawcard is the signature dessert: sweet Hungarian cottage cheese dumplings with jam and cream!
THE DETAILS
Where | Neked Foztem, Zánka, Fő u. 7
When | 12pm - 10pm every day
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO LAKE BALATON
WHEN TO VISIT LAKE BALATON
The best time to visit lake Balaton is in late spring (late May - June) or early autumn (September).
Most Hungarians take their summer holidays in August, meaning Balaton and its surrounds are jam-packed. The best attractions, wineries, restaurants, bars, beaches and accommodation are likely to be booked, and it can be quite crowded during this time.
In late spring (June), the weather is warming, and the surrounding fields covered with wildflowers. It’s also peak lavender season, with many parts of the landscape are covered in a sea of purple. It’s completely magical. There are far less people about, and there’s an almost serene feel to the place.
In early Autumn, the peak season has slowed, yet there’s still that summer warmth in the air. The water is warmer and more comfortable for swimming, and the vibe is a little more relaxed. Accommodation prices are lower, too. Late autumn, although cooler, is grape harvest time, and the vineyards become picturesque, turning all shades of orange and yellow.
HOW TO GET TO LAKE BALATON
It’s super easy to get to Lake Balaton from Budapest, which is not surprising given its popularity.
Though it’s entirely possible to reach Balaton via train, we chose to hire a car (rent your own here), which allowed us the convenience and freedom of picking and choosing where and when we wanted go. It also allowed us to get to a number of different attractions in the area, including some “off-the-beaten-track” areas like Hegyestü.
CAR RENTAL
We rented a car through Rentalcars.com from downtown Budapest for a week, which was super easy and cost just under 35,000HUF/€100 excluding insurance. Plus we got upgraded and the car was brand spankin’ new, with only 2000km on the clock!
One thing to consider is that to use the motorway you’ll need a highway permit (“matrica” in Hungarian, or a Vignette - more information here), which can be obtained at any petrol station on your journey. Alternatively, if you’re hiring a car, remember to add tolls to your booking if you’re planning on using the motorway, which is 3,500HUF/€10 extra.
Car Insurance | We also have an annual global car hire insurance plan through Insurance4CarHire, which you should definitely consider if hiring a car often.
GETTING TO LAKE BALATON BY CAR
Getting to Balaton from Budapest by car is super easy; the M7 motorway connects the two which makes for a quick and efficient journey.
The M7 leads directly to the south shore of Balaton. If you’re staying on the northern shore (which we recommend), you need to take the exit onto Route 71 which covers all the major towns on the north side of the lake through to Keszthely.
An alternative route is via the M7 Motorway to Székesferhérvár, taking the exit onto Route 8 which circles the city. From here, follow the route until Veszprém, before following Route 73 into Csopak and Balatonfüred.
What to know | Driving in Hungary generally happens very quickly and at times erratically. Always have your wits about you…! Also, during the summer months the road can get very busy between Budapest and Balaton, especially on Friday and Sunday afternoons.
GETTING TO LAKE BALATON BY TRAIN
If you’d prefer to base yourself in one town/area, are planning to cycle from town to town, or are planning to really enjoy the famous wines from Balaton (we don’t blame you), catching a train from Budapest is a great option.
There are a few direct trains servicing the Budapest (Déli Station) to Balatonfüred route, and they depart about every hour. You can get to Déli Station via Metro line M2.
The fastest train is called the Kék Hullám (Blue Wave), and takes around 2 hours station to station. It costs 2,725 HUF/€7.50 one way. This train departs every two hours between 7am - 7pm. Alternatively, there are slower trains departing at different times - check the timetables here.
If you’re planning on bringing your bike (biking is super popular here), you can bring you bike on board for a small fee. For information and timetables click here.
GETTING TO BALATON BY BUS
There are also buses running from Budapest to Balatonfüred throughout the day from Népliget Station in the south of Budapest, which is easily accessible by the metro line M3.
Buses take between 2-3 hours and cost 2,725 HUF/€7.50 one way.
Click here for more information.
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN HUNGARY
Overwhelmingly, we’ve found the country to be extremely safe and friendly, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t issues with petty theft or personal safety at times.
You absolutely need to have travel insurance that ensures you and your belongings are protected here.
Here are our recommendations, based on 8+ years of full-time travel:
FOR TRAVELLERS | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out-of-pocket fees.
* The Common Wanderer readers 5% off your policy by booking through our link here
FOR DIGITAL NOMADS | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
CAR INSURANCE | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
TRAVEL BETTER WITH THESE ESSENTIAL POSTS
EXPLORE MISKOLC | Enjoy our short city break guide to Miskolc, explore the enchanting forest town of Lillafüred, or discover the Miskolctapolca Cave Baths
BUDAPEST TRAVEL GUIDES | Explore the best of Józsefváros, Budapest’s hipster 8th district
AIRBNB GUIDE | Our essential guide to getting the best out of Airbnb
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Don’t leave home without travel insurance (seriously, don’t!). Click here to get the best deals with World Nomads, our trusted travel insurance provider
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world?
Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT.
Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO HUNGARY WITH OUR GUIDES
Some of the links on this guide to the best things to do in Lake Balaton are affiliate links.
If you choose to purchase using these links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please know that by using these affiliate links, you're directly supporting The Common Wanderer to stay wandering, the running costs of the site, and our ability to provide you with free content to help you on your travels.
That, and you're officially a legend.
