21 Things To Know Before You Visit Hvar Island, Croatia
Keen on a summer vacation to Hvar Island? Our Hvar travel guide is filled with everything you need to know before you visit, including what to see and do, where to stay, and how to get there and get around + more.
Hvar island might just be the best Mediterranean Island.
Set off the sparkling Dalmatian Riviera, Hvar is rich with history, culture, cuisine, architecture, natural beauty, and beaches.
It’s a place where crooked cobblestoned lanes lead you through stunning Venetian architecture and ancient fortresses, past bustling restaurants serving up mouthwateringly authentic local fare and waterfront bars that roar to life in the evenings with everyone from the rich and famous to backpackers on their first sailing adventure.
Where mountains are filled with lavender and olive groves, world-class wineries straddle hills and plains, and rocky coves are home to the clearest water you’ve ever seen.
Surprisingly diverse, Hvar is both a hedonistic paradise, a ‘mini Ibiza’ to many, and a chilled paradise where slow lunches and afternoons by the sea are a way of life.
Whatever your travel style, there’s something for everyone in this paradise, and this post aims to provide a robust and curated guide to Hvar Island.
From what to see and do, to where to stay and eat, the best beaches and coves, to the best dining and wine experiences, our post gives you all the information you need to enjoy Hvar Island.
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HVAR ISLAND SNAPSHOT
WHEN TO VISIT | May - early July, mid-September - October
HOW TO GET THERE | Ferry from Split
WHERE TO STAY | Hvar Town for party, Stari Grad for chill
WHAT TO SEE | Hvar Town, Stari Grad, Pakleni Islands, Vrboska, Jelsa, endless beaches
HVAR HAS NO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT…
If you’re planning to fly directly to Hvar, think again - the island does not have an international airport.
Whether it be geography or wonderful forward planning by the municipality, we think this is a wonderful thing, as it reduces the demand on the island and keeps noise pollution to a minimum.
But this does mean it can be a little tricky to get to Hvar.
First, you’ll need to fly to the nearby city of Split, and then catch a ferry to Hvar. It’s all very manageable, and we’ve written all about it below, and here.
BUT GETTING TO HVAR FROM SPLIT IS SUPER EASY
Thankfully, while there might not be a direct flight to Hvar Island, getting from Split to Hvar is easy. There are two options - catch the bus service from the airport to Split port, and then one of the many daily ferries to Hvar island.
Or, catch the once-daily Split Express service, which stops off at Brac Island on the way. The easiest, most cost-effective option is the former, and we recommend this option to everyone.
For a more thorough guide on how to get from Split to Hvar, which you can read here - it outlines every Split to Hvar option, including ferries to Hvar Town, Stari Grad, and Jelsa.
It’s worth noting the Split to Hvar ferry route is extremely busy during the height of summer, so we recommend booking at least 24 hours prior. Tickets can be purchased online here. Expect to pay anywhere between HRK 40 - 110 one way, per person, (season/ferry dependent), HRK 47 one way, per person to Stari Grad.
Alternatively, tickets can be purchased in Split at the tourism centre on Split Riva, opposite Diocletian’s Palace, or at the ticket booths further down the Port of Split. The return journey departs from Hvar Riva, and tickets can be purchased online, or from the adjoining ticket office.
Note | if the direct ferry from Split to Hvar is booked out, you can also take the ferry to Stari Grad, and catch a local bus or taxi to Hvar town.
Read | Our Split to Hvar (and return) Guide
HVAR IS ONE OF THE SUNNIEST DESTINATIONS IN EUROPE
Let’s be honest, Europe is dreary for six months of the year and when summer rolls around, it’s a good dose of vitamin D we all desire, or better yet, crave.
Hvar island is one of the sunniest destinations in Europe, home to on average 7.7 hours of glorious summer sun (or 2760 hours a year). For almost eight hours a day, this beautiful island is bathed in life-giving sun, making it one of the most desirable destinations to visit in Europe for sun-seekers.
Better yet, it’s not as affected by the winds that whip up a storm throughout the Mediterranean during the peak summer months.
During the peak season, the weather is spectacular, with the average daytime temperature around 25 - 35 degrees, and long.
HVAR IS INSANELY BEAUTIFUL
We’ve travelled far and wide and Hvar is, without a doubt, one of the most gorgeous places we’ve ever visited.
Yes, it’s quintessentially beautiful - from the white-washed towns and historic cobbled streets of Hvar Town, Stari Grad and Vrboska to the clear blue waters and almost-empty beaches and coves of the Islands’ south; the crystal-clear waters and deserted lagoons of the Pakleni islands, to the quaint, home-style restaurants serving delicious Dalmatian fare; and the photogenic rolling hills swathed in layers of fragrant lavender, olive trees, and fertile plains filled with verdant vineyards producing excellent red wine, Hvar Island is so much more than just the glitz and glamour of its main town.
However, there’s also an intangible beauty that exists in its sleepy towns and alleyways.
In these twisting laneways, there’s the clatter of cutlery and the waft of something delicious being cooked, no doubt by a grandma using a thousand-year-old recipe; the soundtrack of families enjoying their Sunday lunch together.
Locals greet each other in doorways, pausing to chat before continuing on their way. Little boutiques peek out from almost-hidden alcoves. Birds skitter along cobblestones, and in places, it’s so quiet you can hear the echo of your own footfall.
This is a world away from the jam-packed Riva and touristy main square, and there’s a lot to love about that.
Simply put, Hvar is insanely beautiful.
HVAR ISLAND IS MUCH MORE THAN JUST HVAR TOWN
Hvar Town is, without doubt, the crowning glory of the island. It's a town where stunning Venetian architecture, ancient fortresses, and winding old town lanes are illuminated each afternoon by outstanding sunsets. A town where incredible restaurants serve the day’s best catch, a town where world-class bars keep revellers coming back again and again; and where some truly down-to-earth locals exist.
But it’s not the only destination on Hvar Island. In fact, we’d go as far as saying a trip to Hvar isn’t complete without exploring other, equally beautiful, parts of the island.
No matter how long you’re on the Island, we encourage you to escape the Hvar town bubble and explore the rest of the island - these are the places we recommend:
STARI GRAD
After our third visit to the quaint town of Stari Grad, we realised that we may have made a mistake by spending the entirety of our six weeks on the island living in Hvar town.
It's not like we didn't like Hvar town; far from it. It's just that Stari Grad, with its quiet laneways, relaxed vibe, friendly people and far cheaper prices(!) was just ‘more us’.
Stari Grad is the epitome of a rustic Mediterranean coastal town. Its ancient white-stone streets and laneways are perfect for lazy strolls, and around each corner, another historic church, bougainvillaea-covered staircase, or historic archway can be found.
The epicentre of the action is Srinjo kola (Middle St.), once a hub of craftsmen and merchants, now filled with quaint cafes, delis and traditional souvenir stores.
One place we absolutely recommend stopping by is Za Pod Zub, a hip gourmet store run by a lovely young French couple. They offer premium products sourced from Hvar and all of Croatia, including olives (we bought a tub and it was heaven), cheese, chocolate, and some of the best wine on Hvar.
JELSA
Jelsa is the quintessential Croatian seaside village - a pretty Riva, gorgeous, white-washed laneways, exceptional seafood restaurants, and a laidback atmosphere that just exudes summer bliss. And while Jelsa might not have the beauty and brashness of Hvar Town, or the history of Stari Grad, its appeal lies in its family-friendly nature.
Dating back as far as the 14th Century, Jelsa perhaps doesn’t have the outstanding cultural heritage of Hvar or Stari Grad, however, there are a number of things we recommend doing while in the town:
Stroll the Riva | While not as pretty as Hvar or Stari Grad, Jelsa Riva is bustling, especially in the early evening. It’s worth a stroll, and a seaside meal
Church of St. Mary | Dating back to 1331, and fortified in the 16th century, St. Mary’s is Jelsa’s crowning historical beauty. Take a look inside and see a statue of Madonna brought here by refugees in 1539
Church of St. John | A picturesque square located in the heart of the old town. In summer, Antun Dobronić festival is held here, which includes compositions by Antun Dobronić (Jelsa’s most famous son), as well as other Croatian creatives’ works of music, theatre, art and literature
Mina Beach | The most popular beach in Jelsa, Mina is a large, shallow bay just a short walk from the Riva. Perfect for family, or anyone looking to enjoy Hvar’s outrageously clear waters
Wine tasting | Sample some of Hvar's best drops from nearby wineries
VRBOSKA
Its nickname 'little Venice' might be somewhat of a stretch given there's only one canal through the entire village, but that doesn't detract from the fact that the charming town of Vrboska really is worth a visit.
Indeed, our relaxing afternoon in Vrboska - strolling through the pretty laneways and canal and discovering some of its major landmarks, eating traditional Dalmatian food, and enjoying the MUCH slower pace of life - was one of our favourite things to do on Hvar.
Some sights we recommend visiting include:
Vrboska canal | postcard-pretty, full of beautiful canal-side houses and stone arch bridges
The fortress church of Saint Mary | imposing church/fortress that offered refuge to locals during times of war
Wine tasting | sample some of Hvar's best drops here, with many cellar doors located throughout the town and canal
Vrboska harbour | take an afternoon stroll around the harbour to get a truly beautiful view of the whole town
If you're keen to escape the crowds and chaos of Hvar town, we absolutely recommend Vrboska.
BRUSJE
Founded in the 16th century as a shepherd settlement the charming town of Brusje is home to the islands’ popular lavender fields.
A short drive from Hvar town, this ancient village lies somewhat in a state of decay, dotted with rustic stone homes and narrow laneways.
The surrounding fields are where Hvar's lavender production occurs and this is the best place to see the rolling fields of purple that the island is so famed for. The best time to see Hvar under a purple blanket is late June, which also coincides with the islands' Lavender Festival that occurs in neighbouring Velo Grablje.
If you do head out this way, you MUST eat at Izletiste family farm, which serves traditional Dalmatian cuisine, and fresh juices and offers some of the best views of Hvar. They also sell lavender-infused honey, which is a perfect gift for that special someone at home.
THE DETAILS
Where | Brusje
Eat | Izletiste family farm
SPEND A DAY EXPLORING THE PAKLENI ISLANDS…
We both agree that the best day we spent on Hvar Island was when we hired a small 'pasara' boat from Hvar Boats and explored the nearby Pakleni Islands (read our guide to the Pakleni Islands here).
Setting off early, we somehow navigated the narrow Hvar strait (we had no prior boating experience!), before arriving at an unbelievably clear, turquoise bay for our first swim.
It set the tone for the day; we'd find ourselves a beautiful, quiet bay, drop our anchor and jump straight off the bow into the clear blue waters before relaxing in the beautiful Mediterranean sun. It really was a perfect day, and definitely one of the best things to do on Hvar Island.
Some of our favourite bays and beaches include:
The two large bays after Vinogradisce Bay (unfortunately they don't have a name)
Zdrilca beach
Mlini beach
Boats come with a cooler box, so we recommend stocking up on food, water (bring your own!) and beers for the day ahead. You'll need to ask for this and snorkelling gear.
The pasara boat is small enough that you won't need a boat licence to operate it. You will get a lesson from your vendor, which we recommend you listen to as it takes a while to get used to the steering and engine.
It's also important to note that while the boat is insured, the propeller and anchor are not so you'll liable for any damage (which is surprisingly easy on the rocks). Keep an eye out for large ferries and boats operating in the area - it's the main route from Split to Hvar and Korcula!
Read | the best day trip from Hvar - Pakleni Islands guide
EXPLORE MORE OF THE ISLAND WITH THESE TOURS
Hvar is a wonderful island to explore at your own pace, however, there are some places you just can’t visit yourself. That’s where guided tours come in.
We’ve selected some of the most popular tours of Hvar Island and beyond, which will help you understand the Island better, and see more of the surroundings.
We’ve also put together this guide to the best Hvar day tours with more of our favourite options for walking tours, food and wine explorations and epic sails on the Adriatic sea
From Hvar: Green & Blue Caves Tour | A visit to Blue and Green Caves is probably the most famous day trip from the island. This full-day speedboat tour will get you to both caves, plus give you plenty of opportunities to swim, sunbake, and enjoy a cold beer at one of the many beach bars.
BOOK | From Hvar: Green & Blue Caves Tour
Hvar: Romantic Sunset Sail | Nothing quite beats a romantic sunset cruise, and this 2-hour sunset cruises ensures you have the best seat in Hvar town to watch the sunset from. Tours depart from the Hvar port and is perfect for friends, families, and couples (max group size of 7).
BOOK | Hvar: Romantic Sunset Sailing Experience On A Yacht
Pakleni Islands Kayaking Tour | The Pakleni Islands are absolutely worth a day’s exploration and this 4-hour guided kayaking tour is a totally unique way to see them. You’ll explore many hidden coves and beaches and stop for lunch at the beach bar before paddling your way back to Hvar town again. And for those keen on a more romantic adventure? You can also book a sunset kayaking tour too!
BOOK | Pakleni Islands Kayaking Tour or Sunset Kayaking tour
Hvar Guided Walking Tour | Get to know the real Hvar town beyond the glitz, glam and party reputation on this walking tour with a local. You’ll discover the town’s rich and colourful history, from its Venetian roots to its medieval history and beyond. Tours run for 2 hours and depart from the harbour area.
BOOK | Hvar: Guided Walking Tour
READ MORE | Our guide to the best day trips on Hvar
HVAR IS SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST A PARTY ISLAND
After spending six weeks on the island, we got to know some local residents quite well and asked them what they thought of this party scene.
The response was always the same: they couldn't believe what their island had become, especially in the summer months. Some recounted stories of drunk tourists having sex at 8 am in St. Stephens Square (the most sacred and important square to residents on the island), that some drunks vandalised the town centre, and how the thumping bass has ruined any sort of tranquillity.
It seems that travellers and backpackers visit Hvar and seem to lose all sense and respect for those who will call the island home long after they’ve shaken off their hangovers and gone home. As fellow travellers, we think that's pretty shit. There are so many amazing things to see and do on Hvar that it seems a waste to come and spend the entire time drunk, looking for a party - there are better places to party in Europe - Mykonos, Ibiza, and Mallorca spring to mind.
If you're going to come and party on Hvar, by all means, get tipsy, have fun, and party till all hours; but just take a moment and respect the locals, the culture, and the environment at the same time.
If you’re after some slower-paced fun, Hvar is actually home to some of the finest red wine in Europe (their Reds, in particular, are famous the world over).
Hora Farm, located on the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad plain, is the best place to sample some of Hvar’s finest, as well as offers a unique wine tasting experience. The owners run through the history of the farm, and the type of grapes they grow, before a wine tasting session.
In addition to their range of locally produced wines, the family-run establishment prepares delicious local Dalmatian fare, which is served on the terrace overlooking the most beautiful vineyard.
Popular wineries we recommend you visit include:
HVAR IS NOT A BUDGET DESTINATION, BUT IT’S ALSO AFFORDABLE
Hvar has a reputation for being expensive, and for good reason; it's a place frequented by the stars, and a place deemed good enough by, among others, Prince Harry, Beyonce and George Clooney.
From early June, the prices for just about everything increases, sometimes quite dramatically, making the island tough for anyone other than the wealthy.
Accommodation, especially in popular areas, can exceed €200 per night and will likely be your largest cost. Eating a meal in a restaurant can set you back at least €30 per meal, and beers at beach bars will set you back around €5.
BUT.
There are ways to make your Hvar getaway more affordable:
Travel out of season | Probably the #1 way to save money is to travel during the shoulder season. If you can, travel from May - June or from mid-September. Due to decreased demand, accommodation is heavily reduced during this period
Accommodation | Book accommodation outside of Hvar Town, such as Stari Grad, Jelsa, Vrboska, or on the outskirts of Hvar Town. Here, you can get apartments/Airbnb for under €100 per night. Or, try out camping. Hvar has a heap of campsites away from the main tourist attractions that are both affordable, and relaxed
Cook your own meals | If you rent a Hvar Airbnb/apartment, make full use of the kitchen. Visit the supermarket and buy breakfast, lunch and dinner options, as well as snacks for hiking. With this method, we saved at least €50 per day on food. There is an awesome market in Hvar Town that sells affordable vegetables, meat and cheese
Pre-drinks | Drinks are far cheaper from the supermarket (Konzum or Studenac), so buy booze in bulk and pre-drink before partying at Carpe Diem. And remember, don’t be a dickhead
TAKE A ROAD TRIP AROUND THE ISLAND
Hvar is not large, yet its geography - a large mountain range down its spine, means that much of the south of the island is off limits to public transport. But it’s here that you’ll find some of the best beaches, and views on the island.
It’s for this reason, among many others, that we suggest you hire a car and explore the island for a day. We did this multiple times during our visit, with the highlight when we hired a classic VW from Rapidus Hvar and slowly made our way around the island.
We drove through lavender fields to the small village of Brusje, explored the Venetian streets of Stari Grad, ate delicious gelato in Jelsa, slowly made our way through the Pitve tunnel, and swam in the gloriously clear waters at Ivan Dolac and Jagodna (two of Hvar’s best beaches, trust us).
We then finished the day watching the sunset from the Napoleonic fort, overlooking Hvar and Pakleni Islands. Bloody magic!
While a Hvar road trip isn’t essential, we found it was the best way to really explore each corner of the island, and see more than just Hvar Town itself. And this is an island that needs to be properly explored.
If you're thinking of living the Hvar road trip dream too, be warned; the VW beetle is a handful to drive. The cars are manual, have no power steering, and reach a top speed of around 60km/h, and they're especially hard to drive through the narrow villages and tunnels.
Instead, maybe hire a small rental car, or scooter, and enjoy a more relaxed drive.
THE DETAILS
Cost | Between 300 - 800 KN depending on vehicle size, HRK 200 per day (24 hours) for scooter
Further information | Car hire is a great way to explore the island's main things to do. We used Suncity car hire, where a small car costs 330 KN per day (€35), which included no driving on Dubovica-Sveta Nedilja dirt road. The car must be returned with fuel.
Alternatively, hire a VW beetle for the day for around 500 KN (€50), which also includes insurance and must be returned with fuel.
THE ISLAND IS HISTORICALLY SIGNIFICANT, AND HOME TO A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE
Hvar may be a modern-day hotspot, but its history is long and significant.
The Islands’ strategic location in the centre of the Adriatic made it an important base for trade throughout the Mediterranean. As a result, it traded hands with rival naval superpowers for the last 800 years.
Inhabited since prehistoric times when the Neolithic people settled here after finding water and fertile plains, the Island was then settled by the ancient Greeks, who laid out the large flat agricultural plots found on the Stari Grad plain in the 4th century BC.
The Greeks, legends that they are, also planted the first vines on the Island in 384 BC, leading to Hvar’s proud wine-making history. Since then, not much has changed and those same plots are still being cultivated today, and are home to a UNESCO world heritage site.
The island then rose to importance during the Venetian times, when a major naval base was placed on the island. This led to wonderful prosperity across the Island, and many of the fine public buildings you see in Hvar town and Stari Grad are from this time.
After a tumultuous period of Ottoman, Napoleonic, and Austrian rule, the island began building modern prosperity, through wine exports, lavender and rosemary production, and tourism.
Further wars, including the Croatian war of Independence in the early 90s, ruined any growth, and it wasn’t until the mid-2000s did the Island reclaim its position as one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean.
HVAR’S BEST BEACHES ARE JAW-DROPPING, BUT ROCKY
If you're coming to Hvar expecting long, white sandy beaches like those on Menorca or Sardinia, you're going to be disappointed - the bulk of Hvar's beaches, like most of Croatia, are made up of large stone beaches, rocky coves, or man-made slabs.
But what Hvar lacks in sand, it makes up for in the clearest blue waters, hidden coves, and vast natural beauty. In many ways, we actually prefer diving straight into the sea from our own secluded cove than dealing with sand (sacrilege, coming from two Australians!).
Fortunately, this means it doesn't take much to find a perfect spot in which to enjoy the salty waters of the Adriatic, and the best beaches on Hvar can be found scattered all across the island.
Hvar town is home to a number of awesome coves and beaches, as well as private beach bars which beckon those on a short trip to the island.
In the north, beyond Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa, you'll find exquisite coves overlooking the mountains of Brac island. These coves are quieter, much like this part of the island, and are great for families or those looking to escape the crowds of Hvar Town.
To the south, you'll find remote beaches and a much more relaxed vibe. It's these beaches that are perfect for sunset swims as the sun slowly dips over the horizon.
And then there are the nearby Pakleni Islands, just a short boat ride away. Home to mesmerising bays, all you need to do is drop anchor, dive in, and enjoy some of the clearest water imaginable.
But really, any beach on Hvar you place your towel will be amazing!
Read | The best 15+ beaches on Hvar Island
AND NUDIST BEACHES ARE VERY COMMON
Unbeknown to us, Hvar is an extremely popular destination for nudists, with a vast array of beaches on both the Island and Pakleni archipelago assigned FKK - free body culture - basically, nudist beaches.
As two Aussies who, while not prudish in any sense, are not used to nudity at our beaches (Australians are very conservative in that regard), the site of many a penis was rather eye-opening (pun not intended).
FKK beaches are generally signposted as such, however, we often found them labelled on Google Maps. FKK beaches aren’t legally defined as nudist beaches, and you can still visit FKK beaches even if you wish to stay clothed. And while you may get some weird looks, it’s not something you need to be concerned about.
That being said, if you wish to partake, go right ahead - there’s something truly liberating about immersing yourself in nature in your birthday suit. Just remember to apply sunscreen to your johnson and hoochie…
Also, it goes without saying - don’t be a perve - no one likes one of them.
WATCH OUT FOR SEA URCHINS
One of the best things about Hvar is the gloriously clear water, which makes swimming for hours an absolute pleasure. However, with such clarity comes a downside - sea urchins.
Yep, sea urchins are prevalent throughout the rocky waters of Hvar and make for a literal pain in the ass if you’re not careful.
If they get stuck in your skin (Mark stepped on one in Zanzibar just before Kilimanjaro annnnd that wasn’t fun), they can cause infection, so you really don’t want to go anywhere near them.
So, wear water shoes, keep your eyes peeled for very spiky black creatures attached to rocks, and if you do step on one, try to get it out with tweezers, or visit the local hospital (which is a great segway to travel insurance… you need it!).
HOW LONG SHOULD YOU SPEND ON HVAR?
Forever? If only.
Honestly, we could spend our whole summer on Hvar Island and still not be satisfied (hell, we lived on the Island for six weeks and it was nowhere near enough time!)... but we think spending between three-five nights on Hvar is ideal.
Three - five nights might sound like a lot to those wanting to Island hop throughout the summer, or for those backpackers on an epic overland trip through Europe, but Hvar is hands down one of the most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean, and there are just so many things to do on Hvar that make it impossible to see and enjoy in just a few days.
SHOULDER SEASON IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT HVAR
We're slightly biased, given we spent six weeks on Hvar from late April through to mid-June, however, we believe visiting the island during the shoulder seasons (April - early June, Sept-Oct) is the best time to visit.
Not only are the days long and the sea warm, but the crowds are smaller and more manageable, making the island extremely pleasant. What's more, the prices of food and drinks are cheaper during the shoulder period.
Visiting during the peak summer months of mid-June to August means you'll have to contend with upwards of 20,000 daily visitors to the island, which in our opinion is unsustainable to is to the detriment of the tranquil nature of Hvar.
Overall, the summer season can be split into three parts:
May - Mid-June | Shoulder season, when the sea is cooler, the weather milder, and the prices cheaper. The temperatures average between 15-23°c in May and 19-27°c in June
Mid-July - end of August | Peak season, both in tourists, the heat, and the prices. Expect the island to be booked out. The average temperature is 22-31°c
September - October | The second shoulder season, when the sea is warmer, but prices and crowds are reduced. The temperatures average between 18-27°c in September and 15-22°c in October
CHOOSE YOUR HVAR ISLAND BASE CAREFULLY
For the average traveller, choosing where to stay on Hvar can be a tough ask.
While Hvar town is the most obvious choice for many due to its fame and proximity to its equally famous party scene, for those seeking more authentic experiences, outdoor adventures, or a deep dive into the island’s history and culture, there are also plenty of other equally charming towns just as worthy of your consideration.
Then, there’s the huge selection of accommodation options on Hvar; from luxury Airbnbs to rustic stone cottages with forested campsites to party hostels, there’s something to suit every traveller if you know where to look for it.
Below is an overview of where to stay on Hvar:
HVAR TOWN | Hvar island's heart. Known as a glitzy party destination, tranquillity can still be found. Has the most accommodation options, but is extremely expensive during peak season.
STARI GRAD | Best for those seeking culture and history. The oldest town on Hvar, Stari Grad is charmingly rustic, far more laidback than Hvar town, and ever so slightly cheaper. It's 20-30 min by car/bus from Hvar and our favourite town on the island. Here’s where to stay in Stari Grad
VRBOSKA | The smallest town on the island. Best for those looking for authentic Dalmatian experiences, relaxation and quiet life. Recommended for shorter stays.
JELSA | Best for nature lovers. Charming town flanked by pine forests, with local wineries and plenty of beaches nearby. More affordable than Hvar and Stari Grad, but unless you have a car to get around, recommended for shorter stays.
If you've decided on staying in Hvar Town, where you stay will have a big bearing on what vibe you’re after:
FOR THE HEDONISTS | For those keen to be close to all the best food, drink, and nightlife on offer in the harbour area, we’d recommend staying in Hvar town itself. In the peak summer months, it will fairly noisy and raucous between the bass from clubs and the revellers - but you’ll only be a few minutes walk back to your accommodation at night and within striking distance of all the good stuff in Hvar town during the day.
FOR THOSE SEEKING TRANQUILITY | If like us, you don’t mind a good night out every now and then but generally prefer a more relaxed and laid-back place to stay, we’d recommend staying just outside of Hvar town, along the coastal road that bookends either side of the town. You’ll sleep much better than in town, while still also being close to all that’s on offer!
AND THESE ARE THE BEST PLACES TO STAY
PALACE ELISABETH HVAR HERITAGE HOTEL
As the name suggests, the Palace Elisabeth Hvar Heritage Hotel is a hotel fit for royalty.
With a history dating to the 13th century, grand Venetian and Austrian gothic and renaissance architecture, and named in honour of popular Austrian Empress Sisi (patron of its conversion into a hotel in the 19th century), staying here is a deep dive into Hvar’s rich history — but with all the luxury of a modern 5-star hotel complete with pool, terrace, and luxurious spa.
It’s not cheap, but we recommend it for the ultimate splurge!
THE DETAILS
Where | Palace Elisabeth Hotel, Hvar town
Cost | From £280 | $365 per night
BOOK | Palace Elisabeth Hvar Heritage Hotel
MID-RANGE | HOTEL ANTICA STARI GRAD
Not to be confused with our favourite restaurant in town, Antika, the Hotel Antica Stari Grad is ideally situated right next the ferry and with gorgeous views over the clear blue bay.
This 4-star hotel is a super comfortable option for your time in Stari Grad with all the creature comforts you could want; staff are wonderfully pleasant, and buffet breakfast (with plenty of vegetarian options) is included in the price.
THE DETAILS
Where | Trajektno pristanište 3
Cost | From £105 | $135 per night
BOOK | Hotel Antica Stari Grad
BUDGET | WHITE RABBIT HOSTEL
We’d walk past The White Rabbit hostel every day on our way into town, and there were always cool people milling about, reading or chatting with friends.
Set in a renovated 15th century palace smack in the middle of town, this is definitely more your ‘glam packing’ style accommodation, with private rooms and small dorm rooms — including bunks with proper storage underneath, and the holy grail of backpacking: showers that are both hot and powerful! — that are cheery, clean and welcoming.
White Rabbit Hostel has a super sociable vibe, can help you organise boat tours or other sightseeing on the island, and is absolutely where we'd stay if we booked a hostel in Hvar town.
THE DETAILS
Where | White Rabbit Hostel, Stjepana Papafave 6
Cost | Dorms from £12 | $15, privates from £35 | $45
BOOK | White Rabbit Hostel
READ MORE | Where to stay on Hvar, Croatia, The Best Hvar Airbnbs for every budget, The best hotels in Stari Grad
PUBLIC TRANSPORT IS PRETTY GOOD
Public transport on Hvar island is a simple and cost-effective way to get around, with buses connecting Hvar Town with the vast majority of the Island, including Stari Grad, Jelsa, Vrboska and Sućuraj.
However, you'll need to plan your travels around the bus timetable, which we've listed below.
The most popular route, from Hvar to Stari Grad is pretty frequent, with up to five services a day. The bus is small, yet air-conditioned and comfortable.
THE DETAILS
Who | Vozni Red buses
Cost | Around 25 - 50 Kuna per trip
DALMATIAN CUISINE IS DELICIOUS, BUT NOT GREAT FOR VEGETARIANS
There's a saying on Hvar that the fish need to swim three times; first in the ocean, then in oil, and finally in wine in the stomach.
It says a lot about the Mediterranean’s love of fish, oil and wine - but also a lot about the type of food you’ll likely be served on the Island.
Yep, here, it’s all about the seafood life. With the occasional side of meat. And a little in the way of vegetarian food. Dalmatian cuisine itself is simple and aromatic, complementing the seafood and meat most dishes are built around - think fresh olives, cheese, grilled veggies drizzled in local olive oil, risotto’s and pasta’s, chicken stews, slow-cooked lamb, and seafood cooked every which way.
Now, this is fine if you’re a carnivore, but less so if you’re a strict vegetarian or vegan.
During our time on the island, we shifted our vegetarianism to one of pescetarianism, mostly out of necessity - however, we’re less strict when we know the seafood is fished through traditional means, locally. We were fine with this, but others might not be.
If you’re a vegan or vegetarian, a lot of the starters may satiate your appetite, however, there are a throng of new restaurants that are starting to cater for non-meat eaters, including Fig, located in the heart of Hvar Town.
NEVER MISS A HVAR SUNSET
In Dalmatia, there's an important cultural tradition called fjaka.
Essentially, it’s about the mindful presence and quieting all sensory input to just ‘be’ for a while. Like a siesta (but without sleep), fjaka tends to occur between 1 pm - 5 pm, when the sun's heat is at its most searing.
Everyone creates their own version of fjaka; a quiet coffee on the balcony, going for an afternoon swim, or making olive oil.
The aim is a mindful, present experience.
During our six weeks on the island, our own fjaka happened as the skies coloured themselves golden and calm descended on the town. We'd dive into the glassy waters of the Mediterranean, floating on our backs in the golden rays, or sit on the rocks and watch the sun dip over the horizon.
We'd hike to our favourite viewpoint, or simply sit, book in hand, and read.
You see, the sunsets on Hvar are some of the most beautiful in the world, and the perfect time to enjoy your own version of fjaka.
Some of our suggestions are below - but it’s important to find your own version of mindful content too!:
enjoy a sundowner from your own balcony, beach, or rock
walk old town streets and watch the white-stone turn orange
hang on the edge of Hvar Fortica and watch the town turn golden
go for a swim
tuck into an ice cream on the Hvar Riva
HOW TO BE A RESPONSIBLE TOURIST ON HVAR
Responsible, sustainable travel is what we’re all about here at TCW HQ, and this is especially true when we travel to places suffering from climate change and plastic pollution, such as Croatia.
Disappointingly, we encountered quite a bit of plastic pollution during our Croatia trip — a sad reality of our planet today! — so we feel it’s super important to share a few tips on how you can minimise your overall impact while still having the Hvar Island holiday of your dreams.
DON’T BUY BOTTLED DRINKS | Please, for the love of the ocean: DO NOT BUY SINGLE-USE PLASTIC BOTTLES! You'll understand why when you see a bunch of plastic bottles bob past you in the open sea. Buy one of these amazing bottles instead
USE LESS WATER | Unsurprisingly, Hvar Island suffers from water shortages, particularly during the peak tourist season as demand far outstrips supply. To help reduce the pressure on water supplies, keep your water usage to a minimum. We know that’s hard to do on holidays, but quick showers, and turning the tap off when brushing your teeth, cleaning etc. really help
TRAVEL DURING SHOULDER SEASON | Shoulder season is the time before and after the peak season when things are quieter, cheaper, and more enjoyable (especially in the Med!). Travel then to reduce over-tourism, and extend the season for local operators
OCEAN-FRIENDLY TOILETRIES | Everything that goes down the boat drain ends up in the ocean, try and make sure all your toiletries, sunscreen, and shampoo is as ocean-friendly as possible! Solid bars are a great place to start (see below to buy some eco-friendly toiletries).
DO YOUR OWN CLEANUPS | See rubbish on the beach, forest or town? Pick it up, and dispose of it properly. If every traveller helped out during their holiday, the beaches, oceans and forests would be a much happier place for it
DON’T USE PLASTIC BAGS | Pack a reusable tote and use these to carry your snacks, drinks, or new souvenirs instead
LEAVE NO TRACE | Limit your consumption of plastic, and opt for sustainable / zero-waste alternatives instead. Pack a reusable water bottle, bring your reusable coffee cup, and if you can’t sip your cocktails without a straw, bring a metal or bamboo one along instead. And never leave a trace...
BE ANIMAL-FRIENDLY | Observe sea creatures from a distance, don’t pick up wildlife like starfish or urchins, or grab onto turtles, dolphins, etc. If an animal wants to interact with you, it’ll approach you 🙂
SUPPORT THE LOCAL COMMUNITY | Visit a locally owned restaurant for a meal, which means both supporting the local economy and community, and also giving you a real authentic experience.
ICE CREAM CONE | bonus tip - eat your ice cream in a cone, rather than a cup and plastic spoon for the ultimate plastic-free indulgence!
READ | For more responsible travel tips, we also have this guide to reducing your plastic consumption on your travels, as well as this guide to the eco-friendly packing essentials we have with us on every single trip.
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN CROATIA
If you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the current global situation has taught many people, things can go wrong anywhere in the world - and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.
For all travellers | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out of pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.
For digital nomads | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.
Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy
PLANNING TO VISIT HVAR SOON?
We have a heap of essential reading before you travel to the paradise island of Hvar:
HVAR GUIDES | The best things to see and do in Hvar Town, Read this before you travel to Hvar island, 11 amazing things to do in Stari Grad, Hvar, How to visit pretty Vrboska, Our guide to the stunning Pakleni Islands, Our complete guide to Hvar’s best beaches
HVAR ACCOMMODATION | The best places to stay on Hvar Island, and the best Airbnbs on the island too, The best hotels in Stari Grad
HVAR DAY TRIPS | The best day trips to, from, and on Hvar
HVAR PHOTOS | 42 incredible photos of Hvar island that will inspire you to visit!
HOW TO GET AROUND | How to get from Hvar to Stari Grad, how to get from Split to Hvar
DUBROVNIK | 10 Essential things to do in Dubrovnik, Croatia
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Don’t leave home without travel insurance (seriously, don’t!). Click here to get the best deals with World Nomads, our trusted travel insurance provider
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world? Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and your friends travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
HEADING TO CROATIA? YOU’LL LOVE THESE GUIDES
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